ignitor problem

[mbwjr12]

I recently replaced the stator and R/R because I determined both were bad after the bike would not charge, and following the stator papers. I connected the negative lead from the R/R directly to the battery as suggested, and I soldered the connections from the stator to the R/R as I was tired of dealing with possibly bad wires and old connectors. I also replaced the battery, as it wouldn't hold a charge.

Because I had bought the bike recently (I knew of the charging problem when I bought it), I replaced all of the spark plugs, changed the oil, and cleaned the air filter. Of course, I completely over-oiled it the first time, but realized my mistake and remedied it.

However, after all of this, I now have no spark. After following the service manual testing procedures, and the following thread:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...gnitor+testing , I determined the ignitor is not working. However, it was working before, because the bike would run well.

Any advice? Any obvious reasons this would have broken? Has anyone ever built their own ignitor? I'm a EE student, so I may attempt to build a device that functions like this one, as it doesn't seem too difficult.

[Guest]

Check and make sure you're getting power to the coils and ignitor.

[woodman]

Go kzrider.com, search "ignitor" & theres instructions to build one

[mbwjr12]

I've checked the power to the ignitor, and nothing. I've also simulated a signal from the pickups using a AA battery, and still no spark.

Regarding that ignitor, especially the HEI version, it does not seem like anyone has built a version compatible with GS's series pickups. Please let me know if the following makes sense, and I have understood correctly:

1. Ignitor detects increasing positive voltage, connects ground to begin charging the coil.
2. Input voltage to ignitor crosses ignition threshold, ignitor disconnects ground, resulting in spark.

I guess my question would be: if the two pickups are in series, how does the stock ignitor know which coil to ground/fire?

My other question would then be: is it not still possible to use a single HEI module, and convert the bike to a "wasted spark" design, such that the HEI module will detect both pickups, and fire both coils at each time? While this isn't very efficient, it doesn't seem like it would harm the engine, as the wasted spark would be when the pistons are at BDC.

Electrical Experts: Please respond quickly before I attempt this tomorrow.

[Guest]

The O/W wire that goes through the kill switch should provide 12 volts to the coils and the ignitor. If not that is your problem. Try jumping the + battery straight to the O/W wire and see if it will run.

[almarconi]

I think you will find that the ignition system on the KZ and the GS are similar. I own one of each and they are put together pretty much the same way.

[Nessism]

If there is no power coming into the ignitor that most likely is the problem.

Regarding making your own ignitor, you might want to look up Matchless since he is our resident expert. Another thought is to pick up an ignitor from a different GS bike and swith over the wire plugs to match your bike - this assumes you can't find the proper ignitor that is. Ignitors typically sell for about $35 so this may be the cheapest way to go if the ignitor is truly bad.

[mbwjr12]

Sorry, it was late when I posted. I did check the O/W wire for 12V, and I have 11V. Is that high enough?

Also, I followed Matchless' ignitor guide's complete troubleshooting tests, and everything passes but the ignitor.

Also, with regards to the KZ ignition system, doesn't it have four wires coming from the pickups? Two for each pickup? From what I've seen the problem is that the GS has its two pickups in series.

This is the step from Matchless' guide that failed:
"14) To simulate the small voltage generated by the pickup coil, prepare an ordinary 1.5V dry cell with two wires red for positive and black for negative. Connect the negative black wire from the dry cell to the blue wire on the connector plug going into the igniter. Switch on the
ignition and kill switch to power the igniter and briefly touch the red wire from the dry cell positive to the green wire connector going into the igniter. You should see a spark on plugs #1 and #4 when you touch the wire and on #2 and #3 when you remove the wire. If this works your igniter is in a working condition. "

[Matchless]

PM me with your email address and I will send you what you need

Note: That test only works if you have 12V present on both the coils and the ignitor. Meaning your battery +12 V and negative ground wiring/connectors and coils are all in working order.

[Matchless]

PM and mail sent!

[schlyme]

i am having a no spark problem too, but i figured out that i'm not making contact at the 4 prong plug from the harness to the ignitor. now i just have to make it work. i figure i'll pick me up a spare ignitor or maybe two just in case :P i can't make my connecter work. good luck with your issue