what parts to buy for carb rebuild

[brutaldm]

I'm a new rider and I just bought a 82 gs650l with 33k miles on it. The bike is in poor condition, but I have the time, dedication, and money to get it running properly again.

The bike starts and runs. Not surprisingly, the idle isn't too good and is somewhat erratic. Depending on the bike temperature, wind direction and alignment of the planets, it might idle at 1100 rpm or at 2000 rpm. Also, it randomly revs up to like 3k and then drops back to ~1100rpm. Sometimes there is some delay with rpms dropping back down after opening the throttle a bit.

So far, I've changed the oil and filter, redid ALL the bad wiring and replaced R/R and flasher, replaced plugs and caps.

I'm determined to get this bike working properly before the winter is over as I want to use it as my main mode of transportation during the 2010 riding season (yeah, we have those in massachusetts).

Either way, from what I've read on this forum, the airbox needs to be resealed, the carbs (mikuni bs32ss) need to be rebuilt, and the valves need adjusting.

Being this is my first bike ever, I'm confused as to what parts to buy to rebuild the carbs. I can't decide/figure out what to buy (besides oring set from cycleorings) to rebuild the carbs. Any suggestions on what to buy so I can properly rebuild the carbs? I don't want to spend $100 on the wrong parts, etc.

[mike_of_bbg]

In addition to the o-ring set (make sure you get intake o-rings also, probably new SS intake bolts, and consider a couple of idle screw washers which are VERY easy to lose - ask me how I know - while you're there), you'll want to buy some pilot jet plugs and probably bowl gaskets too. Z1 enterprises is a good place to order them.

When you get everything off check the condition of your intake boots on both sides of the carbs, and replace with OEM as necessary. Varying idle is a sure sign of intake leaking somewhere - the intake o-rings are the #1 suspect but the boots get pretty brittle after 30 years, too.

[Dave8338]

I'm a new rider and I just bought a 82 gs650l with 33k miles on it. The bike is in poor condition, but I have the time, dedication, and money to get it running properly again.

The bike starts and runs. Not surprisingly, the idle isn't too good and is somewhat erratic. Depending on the bike temperature, wind direction and alignment of the planets, it might idle at 1100 rpm or at 2000 rpm. Also, it randomly revs up to like 3k and then drops back to ~1100rpm. Sometimes there is some delay with rpms dropping back down after opening the throttle a bit.

So far, I've changed the oil and filter, redid ALL the bad wiring and replaced R/R and flasher, replaced plugs and caps.

I'm determined to get this bike working properly before the winter is over as I want to use it as my main mode of transportation during the 2010 riding season (yeah, we have those in massachusetts).

Either way, from what I've read on this forum, the airbox needs to be resealed, the carbs (mikuni bs32ss) need to be rebuilt, and the valves need adjusting.

Being this is my first bike ever, I'm confused as to what parts to buy to rebuild the carbs. I can't decide/figure out what to buy (besides oring set from cycleorings) to rebuild the carbs. Any suggestions on what to buy so I can properly rebuild the carbs? I don't want to spend $100 on the wrong parts, etc.

Welcome to the fourm. As far as parts, Check out Bikecliff.com or this site. Both are members of the fourm.

[Steve]

First of all,

Now, please add your location and a signature that shows what you ride.

Carb rebuild parts?
1. You already know that you need a full set of o-rings from cycleorings.com. Good. <$15 (while you are ordering, spend the extra penny, get the bowl drain o-rings, too)
2. Other things to get while you are ordering them (from the same place) would be the intake o-rings and the stainless hardware. (<$4 for the o-rings, $6.50 for the hardware)
3. Depending on how bad they are, you might need float bowl gaskets. <$12 from Z1.
4. One can of Berryman's carb dip, $20 at Auto Zone
5. Digital calipers to set float height (also very nice to measure shim thickness).
6. About one week of time.

Total cash outlay, about $77.

Now, after the carbs are together, you will need to sync them. Z1 sells a gauge from Motion Pro for about $85 or you can go for the best, the Morgan Carbtune for $96. Either one will work well, and you will need it several more times during the life of this bike or others that you will acquire.

.

[spchips]

A good set of screwdrivers and o-rings.

If you have damaged gaskets, you might need those, but they usually come off clean, and if they do, they will seal again.

DO NOT get "rebuild kit" as these parts are worse than OEM by far. Buy only OEM (Mikuni or Suzuki) replacements for jets, etc. as needed. Mostly the original parts will be in good shape.

[rideOn]

i am fixing to do what you are over thanksgiving break. a while back i picked op some dig. calipers at harbor freight. i looked online and found a $30 set for 9.99 on promotion. i printed off the page and the local store honored the price. hope this tip helps you same some $$$.

good luck with the carb rebuild. if you discover some cool tips, put them here. i'll sure appreciate any advice going into this project. my boots look good from the outside, so i'll hold off ordering until i see inside. oh, and i got a hand impact driver some time ago from auto zone for $10 if you need to influence your boots' bolts to come out.

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. brutaldm,

With all the good advice given so far, all I can do is point you to my website and say "Hi"...

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[1_v8_merc]

Hey maybe i can contribute something.....as I have a GS650G

Im in the middle of a carb rebuild right now actually.

I can tell you, its easy, the hard part is usually getting the outter carb bolts to loosen up or jets to loosen up.
----

But I just bought some Float Bowl Gaskets from my local dealer, i believe they are Mikuni, and cost around $8 each.

If you goto Autozone they sell a small measuring stick, and it has Millimeters on it, which I used to measure float bowl distance.(it costs $1.50)
(or you can buy a digital one)

I also bought some Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster and ALOT of carb cleaner spray from wal-mart.
(trust me, get some liquid wrench, you'll need it)

Also make sure you have a decent work light.

Get yourself a Driver/impact bit, or just use a 5 inch socket extension,lol and a hammer(i use steel), because some of those bolts can be a HUGE pain in the ass to break loose.
(gotta give them some shock treatment, combined with liquid wrench)

I had to let my bolts soak over night, because they were starting to strip.
So i set the socket extension ontop of the bolt, tapped it pretty fast and hard with the hammer(not too hard), what it does is it actually mends the stripped bolt almost closed again, then you just take the proper size Phillips head screw driver(preferably a new craftsman with sharp edges), then stick screwdriver in the hole alittle bit, then take your hammer and give it 3 or 4 Good solid hits(thus driving it and re-shaping the bit-hole and giving extreme grip), THEN lean your weight on top of it and just turn hard....I used that technique and it worked EVERY time....it was the only thing that worked in order to get my bolts off!

Oh yeah, almost forgot, go to Lowes and get a screwdriver for your Pilot Jets(controls idle), its a Kobalt 3/16's, and its got a Red and Black/Clear handle on it, it costs like $3.96 i believe. It fits PERFECT into the Pilot Jet hole and grip the jet perfect. was going thru hell trying to get mine to come loose, and took the carburetor into the store, and tried that Kobalt screwdriver and BAM it came loose without even struggling!
-----



I know some of you guys probably wont agree with my techniques, but they worked for me!

[sschering]

As everyone said.. Gaskets, Carb dip and O rings..
If you don't have an air compressor get a pack of those canned air dusters for blowing out PC's.. They work ok for blowing out passages and jets after dipping. They get cold as you use them and loose pressure but soaking the can in hot water will bring it back up quickly.

It might be worth taking a few minutes before making the order to open the cabs. Inspect the needle & seats for damae and the pilot screws.
If any are broken or or worn now is the time to order replacements.
It sucks to finish a carb build and have to sit for a week waiting for new pilot screws to arrive.

Another set of tools I highly recommend is a good set of J.I.S. screwdrivers
The Japanese spec Phillips head screws cam out & strip easily with US spec drivers.

http://www.heliproz.com/prodinfo.asp?number=888101

$25 and worth every penny.
My wife keeps "borrowing" them because they work so well on the kid's toys.

Your engine case screws and the carb holders take a #3 driver.

You can get #3 JIS through McMasterCarr or a standard #3 Phillips from the hardware store will get the job done most of the time.

If the pilot screws are stuck don't force them.. Just get everything off the carbs you can and let the body soak in the dip..
It took 3 days in the dip to get the pilot screws out of my carbs. I was using the dip from NAPA.

whatever you do don't get the diaphragms and sliders anywhere near the dip..
Those things are $50 each to replace so be nice to them and put them in a safe place.

[doctorgonzo]

"If you don't have an air compressor get a pack of those canned air dusters for blowing out PC's.. They work ok for blowing out passages and jets after dipping"

Good tip. My agarage is sans compressor at the moment (it's on my wish list). In a pinch those cans of air work for small jobs like carb passages, or any other "small" compressed air jobs around the garage.

[Steve]

I must be doing something wrong.

I also bought some Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster and ALOT of carb cleaner spray from wal-mart.

I have actually rebuilt THREE sets of carbs and only used ONE can of carb cleaner.

What am I doing wrong?

.

[sschering]

I must be doing something wrong.

I have actually rebuilt THREE sets of carbs and only used ONE can of carb cleaner.

What am I doing wrong?

.

My guess is you have a nice big can o carb dip.


First carbs I did I just used a couple cans of spray.. smelly mess that was and I had to go back and do it again..

When I did the GS rack I learned the joy of dipping.. I maybe used a 1/4 can of spray on the floats.

Dip also works great for old frozen brake master cylinder's and calipers..
It'll trash all the rubber but the frozen pistons come free after a good long soak.