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is that easily to weld a crank?
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Originally posted by Agemax View Post
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use ER80-D3 tig rod and heat shield your bearings
the more power you plan to put to it the wider and deeper the welds.
maximum weld width a quarter of an inch( 6~7mm ) good for 100 shot of nitrous!!
do not forget to test fit your crank in the cases. There is a chance a big sloppy weld bead will hit the cases as it spins around. rod area too.
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Joe,
You pull the clutch basket out and you will be able to see the welds by peering into the crankcase.
Jim
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Guest repliedAnyway to tell if a crank has been welded without tearing it down? If so what am I looking for?
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Guest repliedget some one who has done it with success many times. there things you need to know. thats why it cost $300 to do it from the people who know.
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by Big Jay View PostYou do not disassemble the crank to weld it. The only time it is done that way is when the the crank is being rebuilt.
Welding the pins so they won't twist is done to the complete assembly. Check it with the rod to make sure it is not twisted, the weld the pins, each about 1/2 inch, in a couple of spots.
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You do not disassemble the crank to weld it. The only time it is done that way is when the the crank is being rebuilt.
Welding the pins so they won't twist is done to the complete assembly. Check it with the rod to make sure it is not twisted, the weld the pins, each about 1/2 inch, in a couple of spots.
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Guest repliedI have done several kz1000 ball bearing cranks which were all used in drag bike motors with perfect success. it isnt that big of a deal. just make sure its strait first. spray everything with antispatter and dont do the whole weld at one time as this will put to much heat into the crank causing it to warp. break each weld into 3 equal pieces. weld one third the way around one pin and move to another pin and do one third of it. then go back and do another third on the first pin till all are completed. grind down any real high points, completely wash in solvent and blow off, recheck for straitness and install. I couldnt imagine taking one apart to weld it.cant see why a suzy crank would be any different unless there are some pins you cant get to without taking it apart but I doubt that
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you cannot weld a crank as one piece. as mentioned it has to be broken down and reassembled, welding each web to the big end journal at a time, whilst constantly keeping it true. a proper jig is required to prevent distortion and a bloody good welder!
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Originally posted by isleoman View PostI would have to disagree respectfully on the 82 1100 cranks. Mine twisted with very light abuse (wheelie) at 10K.
Mine did it in 3rd at about 6K. I went to 4 and it started to stumble.
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My 80 1100 crank was very abused with an 1166 kit, heavy rider and it was still perfect. I was pleasantly suprised.
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Originally posted by tkent02 View PostI don't think any of them have a problem unless they are severely abused.
Maybe drop the clutch at really high RPM for a big burnout? Maybe when the tire hooks up after a burnout? Maybe skipping out of gear and back in at full throttle? Not sure exactly when they bend, but it's not likely during the normal abuse we all do. Maybe one of the engine gurus will chime in here.
I've not yet had a twisted crankshaft, I'm on my eighth or so 1000/1100, and have worked on several more. They all get ridden pretty hard on occasion, though I'm not deliberately trying to twist a crank.
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The pros do it from a completely disassembled crank, pressing up each section, tack welding, trueing and finish welding each piece before moving on to the next press assembly and weld sequence.
IMO doing a fully assembled crank is asking for alignment problems.
Greg T
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Guest repliedI just took my crank off to a local auto machine shop to be welded. Talked to the guy today, he's going after a chromed rod to put through the rod pins to make sure it is straight, and then welding it tomorrow. Says as long as it is not twisted, he'll charge me $50. Sounded reasonable to me.
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