I will have to look into rebuilding it, I did my 750 hub fairly easy. The difference between the two is major, the 1100 hub looks bulletproof compared to the 750 one.
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The clutch hub looks decent, but the heavy springs in back are loose
I will have to look into rebuilding it, I did my 750 hub fairly easy. The difference between the two is major, the 1100 hub looks bulletproof compared to the 750 one. -
Damn that motor is clean.
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What did you have done to the cylinder head? Did I miss a post?
What carbs., pods/no pods, exhaust in the 750 frame?
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The cylinder head was cleaned already and a valve lap done with new seals, the ports were either mildly cleaned up before or the casting is a lot better than my 750 head. I have 34mm cv carbs on my 750 now with a DJ kit. I am going to try and use a stock airbox with a K&N. I have the 1100 airbox and the 750 airbox, have to figure what I am going to do. The 750 has a V&H 4-1 header on it already and I was wondering about fitment, primary and collector sizes etc. Then I looked at the V&H site and the part number for the 750 and 1100 4-1 are the exact same
,so I am golden. I had 3 EBC clutch springs left over from the 750 along with 3 new stock springs that are going in, and I am going to deglaze the steels before they go in. I was wondering about gearing, I have a 530 set on it now with a 17/49 ratio, and I already have 16t and 18t front sprockets, but I will likely stay with the 17/49 unless someone says something to change my mind.
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That will be one FUN "sleeper"
You are going to leave the 750 stickers on it right?
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I LOVE IT when I get comments about my bike.
Like this one:
"That is the fastest 750 that I have ever seen!"
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You may get clutch slippage with the 3&3 setup. I had to go with six Barnett but I think I was pushing a little more HP.Comment
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Degreeing the cams. Both measure 230 Deg @0.50"
Intake valve lift is almost .300" ex is .280"
I am going for 106 in and 108 ex centers.
The manual says the rotor is supposed to be torqued to 115-120 lb/ft
How am I supposed to hold the crank and engine at that amount
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you can use a impact on a different bolt, on a seperate piece of steel/ then check it with a torq wrench, then use the impact on it at what ever setting it is on
or put the bike in gear have someone hold the brakes?
i dont want you to stick anything in the rotor teeth,"if you brake something, dont want ya mad at me
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The engine is not in the bike now. So, maybe I will torque it as much as I can now, then finish the torque once the engine is in the bike. But, jeez 120 lbx/ft could almost lift the bike off the groundyou can use a impact on a different bolt, on a seperate piece of steel/ then check it with a torq wrench, then use the impact on it at what ever setting it is on
or put the bike in gear have someone hold the brakes?
i dont want you to stick anything in the rotor teeth,"if you brake something, dont want ya mad at me. Does it REALLY need 120 lbs??
If I got mad at you then it would be my own fault for not using my own head
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Got the engine in today, tomorrow hope to get it running
Here is the 750/816cc out:
getting ready to muscle it in:
Engine in, went in fairly easy:
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That engine sure looks purdy!
Eric
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