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Air Signal and Fuel Delivery Clean-up

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    Air Signal and Fuel Delivery Clean-up

    Alright. I've been fairly easy on the 1100 these past few weeks, due to a concern over my failed drive chain. Now that I've got that taken care of, I've been attempting to ride a little more spirited. Attempted, because when the engine runs past 5 or 6 grand, the engine sputters and chokes. I can usually get it to run smoothly, with very slow, very precise operation of the throttle. Made a run to Tortilla Flat today, and noticed it was more pronounced while descending. I was riding with a bunch of cruisers, so I never had much call to run it past 4 grand or so. So, I figure I'm most definitely in need of a carb cleaning, really, it should have been done ages ago, but I've been taking care of safety issues first. Granted, the sudden decrease in power associated with the stumbling could very well be considered a safety issue itself, but still less severe than say, a chain coming apart, or brakes failing. In any case, I figure I might as well clean up the air signal as well. I don't fancy taking the time to figure out exactly what's causing my stumbling, so I'm going with the cash shotgun approach, and will just replace all the items that might be causing it. So, time to gather parts and make a plan for a project.

    Since I'm going to go to the trouble of cleaning these carbs, I might as well make sure they don't get all clogged up again, right? POR-15 is the route I want to go, right? I've got the ability to take the bike of the road for an extended amount of time, if necessary. Yay bicycles and short commutes. Stock fuel line is supposed to be replaced every two years, according to my service manual, so I might as well do that as well. I'm pretty sure my OE petcock is working just fine. I've never had a problem switching to reserve, and prime works as it's supposed to. That should just about do it for fuel delivery.

    I've got a K&N OEM replacement filter coming soon. Airbox is very solid, no holes or deterioration except for the sun bleaching on the exterior. Most of the rubber in the air signal is fairly stiff, I could probably stand to replace it. It might be worth it, if only to make installing the carbs easier.



    From this fiche, I think I'll need the following:

    #02 x 4
    #11 x 1

    What's 3? I've had the carbs off when I rebuilt my cam chain tensioner, but I don't remember these. Bike Bandit calls it a Ring Outlet Tube. Maybe I'll pick some up just in case.



    From this fiche, I think I'll need the following:

    #22 x 2
    #23 x 2

    The only other parts I can think of in the air/fuel delivery path would be the exhaust gaskets, and I'll go ahead and do those as well. I've been hankering to get the pipes off for a cleanup and repaint anyways, and I'll need to pull them in order to pop in the 750 oil pump gears I plan on obtaining in the near future.

    So, here's my first draft parts list:

    Carb Dip
    O-ring kit (Anyone mind posting the link?)
    Jet kit? Not sure if the carbs were jetted for this V&H pipe or not, better safe than sorry?
    #02 x 4 from fiche #1
    #11 x 1 from fiche #1
    #03 x 4 from fiche #1 ?
    #22 x 2 from fiche #2
    #23 x 2 from fiche #2
    OEM Fuel Line
    OEM Exhaust gaskets
    POR-15 Tank Sealer Kit
    Conical OEM Style K&N Filter
    Stainless Allen Bolts for every possible fastener I can find (any links?)
    Cylinder Head Cover Gasket (For valve adjustment)

    It's entirely possible I'll just have the carb work done by a third party. I've seen some spectacular examples of painted fuel meters on these forums, wouldn't mind owning a set myself, even if they are just dressed up stockers. I think that should give me a brand new fuel signal pathway, and a brand new air signal pathways, and hopefully clearing up whatever problem is causing my stumble. Can anyone think of anything I might have missed? My goal is to replace or repair everything that could cause an issue with fuel metering. Ignition system has been tested and ruled out as a possible problem.
    Last edited by Guest; 12-20-2009, 11:14 PM.

    #2
    You should not need #3s unless you jack them up removing the #2s. They reside inside the #2s. If they are cheap enough just buy them.

    #2s, #22s, and #23s make it so much easier to pull the carbs, this is a no-brainer on restore/rubuilds. Just do it.

    POR15 to coat the tank would be good.

    New fuel line.

    Send the carbs to Bruce.

    Not sure any change in jetting due to the K&N, but never know. But the V&H pipe. Possibly.


    Anytime a bike is going to be down for a few weeks/months best to just drain the carbs or have some seafoam/stabil in the gas. If anything it will keep the pilot jets and choke circut tubes from gumming up. The most problematic issue with , "my bike only was in storage for 3 months now it has problems, please help," issues.

    Only thing I don't like about removing fuel is the elastomer/rubber parts like to dry up, especially this ethanol additive fuel now days.

    Sounds like you have a good plan.

    Oh, and S100 does wonders for "bleached" plastics, might scrub with some scotch-brite pad to get down to the black plastic some, and follow up with some 2000 grit to smooth it out. Spray S100 on it an it will be looking good.
    Last edited by Guest; 12-23-2009, 12:31 AM.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by tejasmud View Post
      You should not need #3s unless you jack them up removing the #2s. They reside inside the #2s. If they are cheap enough just buy them.

      #2s, #22s, and #23s make it so much easier to pull the carbs, this is a no-brainer on restore/rubuilds. Just do it.

      POR15 to coat the tank would be good.

      New fuel line.

      Send the carbs to Bruce.

      Not sure any change in jetting due to the K&N, but never know. But the V&V pipe. Possibly.


      Anytime a bike is going to be down for a few weeks/months best to just drain the carbs or have some seafoam/stabil in the gas. If anything it will keep the pilot jets and choke circut tubes from gumming up. The most problematic issue with , "my bike only was in storage for 3 months now it has problems, please help," issues.

      Only thing I don't like about removing fuel is the elastomer/rubber parts like to dry up, especially this ethanol additive fuel now days.

      Sounds like you have a good plan.

      Oh, and S100 does wonders for "bleached" plastics, might scrub with some scotch-brite pad to get down to the black plastic some, and follow up with some 2000 grit to smooth it out. Spray S100 on it an it will be looking good.
      I personally haven't had the bike down longer than two days, the time it took to get my chain conversion done. This thing is actually my only form of transportation. The bike did sit for quite some time before being ridden regularly though, so it has all the normal gummy carb problems. Choke's pretty worthless, can't ride with it on, only good for raising the idle when it's cold in order to warm up the bike. Won't idle when cold, rather it will, but it'll slowly decay until it stops running. Once it's warm, it was running pretty much perfect. Completed the chain conversion, carbs got jealous of all the attention the final drive was receiving, decided to (probably) clog the pilot jets. Probably just a function of having clean gas run through them for a little while. Cleaned up enough gunk to dislodge a piece of gunk large enough to cause metering problems. That's my theory, anyways.

      I was hoping for Bruce's services, since I'm not very comfortable handling carbs. I sent him a p.m. a few days ago, I assume he's busy with the holidays, which is well enough, since I'm still just in the planning stages at the moment. I'm not terribly keen on trying to get a set of carbs through the mail this time of year, either. I'm sure handling standards relax as volume increases.

      A Google search for S100 turned up a cycle car products page with 10 or twelve different products. Which one should I look at for refinishing the outside of the airbox/air cleaner box assembly? I was considering light sanding, and using a plastic specific rattle can, and maybe some sort of clearcoat for a little bit of protection.

      Comment


        #4
        Two days should never be a problem. Your post leads to nothing has been done in this area, and seems like a good plan. Besides, Carbs need Lovin Too.." Jealous." lol

        If it was running good before, might just need to be taken out and run.


        S100 Engine Brightener.



        Some motorcycle shops carry it. About $8-$9 for a small can, but it doesn't take much.

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