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    #16
    You should hone the cylinders even with used rings.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #17
      Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
      You should hone the cylinders even with used rings.
      what exactly is this proccess?

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        #18
        Originally posted by jakeolsen View Post
        gearhead, this set at partsnmore.com seems like it would do the trick, and all for a little bit more than the two gaskets on bikebandit. Thanks for the pricing on the rings. I will keep looking around because that is just a little more than I was hoping to spend on them if I buy them.
        You want to play russian roulette with your engine with cheap gaskets and put it back together with worn out rings that your perogative.
        I *thought* you said in your first post that you wanted to do it right.
        Why did you tear apart the engine in the first place? was it leaking or burning oil?

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          #19
          Originally posted by gearhead13 View Post
          Why did you tear apart the engine in the first place? was it leaking or burning oil?
          I asked that question, too, and he answered it.
          Originally posted by jakeolsen View Post
          I should have mentioned that when I bought this motor two exhaust bolts had rusted to the point of being gone, and two more broke when I was removing them. The head of the top end of the other came off without breaking any bolts(lots of PB blaster and a little patience). So I figure that it had to be tore down this far at the least, but I am hoping not to go farther.


          .
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          mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
          hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
          #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
          #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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          Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
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            #20
            Originally posted by Steve View Post
            I asked that question, too, and he answered it.




            .
            Ok, didnt see that
            I was just wondering, because he is having the frame powder coated, but he doesnt even want to buy new rings for it

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              #21
              Use one of these and lots of WD-40
              Around 30 seconds in each cylinder with a slow but consistant up and down motion.
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by gearhead13 View Post
                You want to play russian roulette with your engine with cheap gaskets and put it back together with worn out rings that your perogative.
                I *thought* you said in your first post that you wanted to do it right.
                Why did you tear apart the engine in the first place? was it leaking or burning oil?
                Please read ALL of my posts before jumping on me. I am obviously on here asking questions so that I can do it right. If those gaskets are junk, nothing I have seen has stated that, so how am I supposed to know?

                I never said that I don't want to replace the rings either. I said that I don't want to replace them IF they are still plenty good. It would only make sense since I am on a budget to spend the money where it is needed and NOT where it isn't.

                If I find that they are even close to worn out, they will definitely get replaced, as is everything else on this bike that is at or near its end (fork springs and seals, rear shocks, exhaust gaskets, intake boots and gaskets, ignition coils and wires, the list goes on..).

                I am totally new to the restoration process, so please give me the benefit of the doubt. I am trying to ask as many questions as possible so that I can avoid mistakes like not replacing things that need to be. With that said, I will not be bullied into doing anything on my bike. I am asking for CONSTRUCTIVE criticism, not out and out criticism just for criticising sake.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                  Use one of these and lots of WD-40
                  Around 30 seconds in each cylinder with a slow but consistant up and down motion.
                  Thanks! What is that thing called?

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by jakeolsen View Post
                    Thanks! What is that thing called?
                    A "ball hone"
                    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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