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    #16
    Originally posted by jchaffee5 View Post
    I am not the most machaniclly inclinded I just like a good challange so I am sorry if I sound stupid. Just to make clear are the o rings are they the part of that comes off the front of the carbs and goes into the heads and how can I check that for a leak?
    take the boots off. it won't hurt to replace them-they're very affordable from cycleorings.com. this can be a tough job. i had to use a hand impact driver-$10 a auto zone.

    check bikecliff's site: http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
    look for these topics, they're easy reads and soon you'll be an expert

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      #17
      thanks I just check out the link and it sound easy enough can't wait to try it I am getting to be a master at pulling out these carbs this will only be the forth time in two months

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        #18
        thanks for the advise from what it sounds like is the bike is not Idleing down because the carbs are out of sync I thought didn't matter I thought the syncing made the bike run smoother

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          #19
          your the second person to mention the o rings as far as I know they are the originals from 78

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            #20
            Originally posted by jchaffee5 View Post
            thanks for the advise from what it sounds like is the bike is not Idleing down because the carbs are out of sync I thought didn't matter I thought the syncing made the bike run smoother
            Smoother, yes, but if one carb is closed and the other one is 1/4 open, it's going to run fast. You need to pull the carbs and visually check the throttle openings to see that they are about the same opening.

            Here are two of a four-carb set, you can see the sliver of light at the bottom of the throttle butterfly, they are both about the same:


            Adjust the screw between the carbs to get them close like this, then make sure you have the cable properly adjusted to make sure the carbs can close.

            .
            sigpic
            mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
            hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
            #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
            #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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            Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
            (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

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              #21
              That's because it's an extremely common problem and can cause the problems you're experiencing. Unlikely to be balance. It's so far off you'd have to have one butterfly open loads when the other was shut.
              To bench sync adjust them by eye until you see the butterflys open and close at the same time.
              You're cable must be caught up somewhere. Prob under the tank.
              1980 GS1000G - Sold
              1978 GS1000E - Finished!
              1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
              1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
              2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
              1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
              2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

              www.parasiticsanalytics.com

              TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

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                #22
                Check out this site. It's a nice reference for seeing what goes where. They use real Suzuki part numbers, which can come in handy. Just Click on the Parts Diagram, then look up your bike. The o-rings are under the air cleaner heading, part number #22.

                Buy parts at a low price for your snowmobile here at Alpha Sports, we carry a LARGE variety of parts and accesories.
                Larry D
                1980 GS450S
                1981 GS450S
                2003 Heritage Softtail

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