FIRST thing to check is your starting technique. Somewhere between half and full "choke", NO throttle, push the button. If it does not start in a few seconds, you really need to do some maintenance. Might be carb cleaning or adjustment (you said you changed o-rings, so I presume you dipped them, too?), might be valve adjustment, might be electrical connection cleaning.
See what I said above? These are very basic items that HAVE to be right. Not sure about DynoJet's recommendation, but I have started using 3 full turns out on the mixture screws as my starting point. Keep in mind that they WILL need to be fine-tuned from there.
The most obvious thing you are missing is starting technique. Set the "choke" to between half and full, DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE, push the starter button. DO NOT TOUCH THE TROTTLE TO ADJUST SPEED, use the "choke" lever.
Fully agree with everything except the "prime for 3 minutes" bit. If the bike has been run within the last week or so, you shouldn't need PRIME at all. If you do find that you need it, 30 seconds is more than enough to fully prime the float bowls.
Lots of information on adjusting the valves in any service manual and BassCliff has a nice tutorial that helps a lot. If you are interested, I also have an Excel spreadsheet available that helps you do the math to figure out what shims you need. It will also help you keep track of what shims are in there for your next adjustment. See the last part of my sig for ordering information.
We are ALL ignorant, but in different areas. Thanks for actually asking the questions. It shows you are interested in learning.
YES. Although compression might be good, you never know ... it might be better.
What happens (as the good doctor has explained) is that clearance is reduced. This also changes the valve timing by keeping the valve open longer than it should. With the very small clearances on a cold engine, some of the mixture that has been sucked into the cylinder might actually get blown back through the carb because the valve is closing too late. Air moving across the jets will pick up fuel (again). When the intake valve opens the next time, air gets pulled back across the jets (AGAIN) picking up even more fuel. You might still have decent compression, but your fuel mixture will be so far off, it won't matter.
By the way, those engines that are so hard to start when they are cold and start so easily when they are warm are the ones that will benefit by a valve adjustment. Nobody really knows what the actual valve clearance is on a running engine that is up to proper temperature, but you can bet it's not the .03-.08mm that is specified when the engine is cold. I am guessing that the clearance is a little more (due to the head expanding, moving the head of the valve just a bit farther from the cam), which delays the valve timing back into the "acceptable" range for running.
Whoever promised you that it would be CHEAP was lying to you. I don't know if you ever mentioned how much you paid for the bike or what condition it was in, but you can usually figure on spending between $500 and $1000 to get a bike from "unknown" to "running well".
A whole gasket kit is highly recommended. At least get what is known as an "upper end kit". It will have everything from the cylinder and head gaskets UP, but will not include the gasket for the case halves. Some of the "upper end kits" will also include the oil pan gasket, most will have the cam chain tensioner gasket and valve seals.
You will need to look harder, as there is no such thing as a 16v GS(any size)G.
Yes, we like our bikes. Does it show that much?
I think you're just getting a little scared, but don't think you are going to save much money by buying ANY vehicle just because of the gas mileage. What you should be considering about riding the bike is Smileage. Yes, you will save a bit of gas, but unless you are driving a Hummer that gets about 7 mpg, you won't be saving enough at the gas pump to offset the cost of the bike and the parts to get it running reliably.
You will be needing different materials and different thicknesses for the different parts involved. Personally, for all the time and effort it's going to take to make them all, I would say that the best material to make them from is CASH. As mentioned previously, $70-80 will get you a full set. You might spend $20 or so for various rolls of material, then you have to consider, how much of your time is worth about $60? I will do a lot of stuff for myself for free, but if taking that time takes away from something that I can do and charge somebody for, it suddenly jumps in value.
.
See what I said above? These are very basic items that HAVE to be right. Not sure about DynoJet's recommendation, but I have started using 3 full turns out on the mixture screws as my starting point. Keep in mind that they WILL need to be fine-tuned from there.
The most obvious thing you are missing is starting technique. Set the "choke" to between half and full, DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE, push the starter button. DO NOT TOUCH THE TROTTLE TO ADJUST SPEED, use the "choke" lever.
Fully agree with everything except the "prime for 3 minutes" bit. If the bike has been run within the last week or so, you shouldn't need PRIME at all. If you do find that you need it, 30 seconds is more than enough to fully prime the float bowls.
Lots of information on adjusting the valves in any service manual and BassCliff has a nice tutorial that helps a lot. If you are interested, I also have an Excel spreadsheet available that helps you do the math to figure out what shims you need. It will also help you keep track of what shims are in there for your next adjustment. See the last part of my sig for ordering information.
We are ALL ignorant, but in different areas. Thanks for actually asking the questions. It shows you are interested in learning.
YES. Although compression might be good, you never know ... it might be better.
What happens (as the good doctor has explained) is that clearance is reduced. This also changes the valve timing by keeping the valve open longer than it should. With the very small clearances on a cold engine, some of the mixture that has been sucked into the cylinder might actually get blown back through the carb because the valve is closing too late. Air moving across the jets will pick up fuel (again). When the intake valve opens the next time, air gets pulled back across the jets (AGAIN) picking up even more fuel. You might still have decent compression, but your fuel mixture will be so far off, it won't matter.
By the way, those engines that are so hard to start when they are cold and start so easily when they are warm are the ones that will benefit by a valve adjustment. Nobody really knows what the actual valve clearance is on a running engine that is up to proper temperature, but you can bet it's not the .03-.08mm that is specified when the engine is cold. I am guessing that the clearance is a little more (due to the head expanding, moving the head of the valve just a bit farther from the cam), which delays the valve timing back into the "acceptable" range for running.
Whoever promised you that it would be CHEAP was lying to you. I don't know if you ever mentioned how much you paid for the bike or what condition it was in, but you can usually figure on spending between $500 and $1000 to get a bike from "unknown" to "running well".
A whole gasket kit is highly recommended. At least get what is known as an "upper end kit". It will have everything from the cylinder and head gaskets UP, but will not include the gasket for the case halves. Some of the "upper end kits" will also include the oil pan gasket, most will have the cam chain tensioner gasket and valve seals.
You will need to look harder, as there is no such thing as a 16v GS(any size)G.
Yes, we like our bikes. Does it show that much?
I think you're just getting a little scared, but don't think you are going to save much money by buying ANY vehicle just because of the gas mileage. What you should be considering about riding the bike is Smileage. Yes, you will save a bit of gas, but unless you are driving a Hummer that gets about 7 mpg, you won't be saving enough at the gas pump to offset the cost of the bike and the parts to get it running reliably.
You will be needing different materials and different thicknesses for the different parts involved. Personally, for all the time and effort it's going to take to make them all, I would say that the best material to make them from is CASH. As mentioned previously, $70-80 will get you a full set. You might spend $20 or so for various rolls of material, then you have to consider, how much of your time is worth about $60? I will do a lot of stuff for myself for free, but if taking that time takes away from something that I can do and charge somebody for, it suddenly jumps in value.
.
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