GS1100L #2 carb leaking, bike wont start.

[mike_of_bbg]

Did you swap the old petcock with the new tank (or did you just clean the tank you had)? There's a diaphragm in the OEM petcock which allows fuel to flow only when vacuum is being applied. If that diaphragm develops a leak, fuel will leak through the vacuum line into carb #2. That's the only reason there should be fuel in the vacuum line. Your response to Ed was not confidence inspiring. Rebuilding petcocks gets mixed reviews so to +1 Larry D it's best to buy new and not worry about it again for 20 years.

AFTER you have determined the petcock is no longer a problem, check for gas in the crank case and change the oil even if you don't smell it, just to be sure. The gas is thinning out the oil and can lead to bearing damage as well as clutch slippage. Fuel in the exhaust sounds like a bad thing too, since the combustion mixture tends to leave the head still on fire

New plugs cost about $8 and are worthwhile investment. See if you can borrow an inductive timing light somewhere and make sure you're sparking at/near the right time. Take the spark indicators off to prevent losing juice to the plugs.

Your compression numbers are fine - but is there any air coming in at idle? Are you cracking the throttle when you try to start? What about applying the choke? +1 did you DIP the carbs for 24 hours each and put new o-rings in? Did you bench sync the carbs when you were done? Check your new plugs for wetness from fuel. They should be a little wet (and uniformly so) if it's not burning what's coming in.

[cowb0y]

Ok, the tank is new (to me) and clean inside. However, this tank is a bit bigger (length) and so I am in the process of making a bracket to hold the tank on. The front gromets need to be a bit higher, but the bolt hole in the rear lines up well; I'll just need a longer bolt.

The carbs have been cleaned and bench synced (so the PO tells me) with stage 3 dyna jets and has pods that came with it. I have confirmed spark at each spark plug is thick and blue, except #1. So I am gonna replace it and maybe all the others too.

I do smell gas in the oil. How does it get there? I will change it as suggested. Where would i get the o-rings if I where to need them in the future?

My buddy suggested a hand-pump syphon to get the gas out and it worked!! I filtered the gas out jus to see what I could catch and I will post a pic of the crap that came out of my tank. Its crazy.

Thanks for all the comments fellas.

[Guest]

http://www.cycleorings.com/

The fuel gets into the oil a few ways.
A bad petcock
Bad inlet valve o-rings
Bad float needle and seats

[cowb0y]

If the compression is good, does that nessarily mean the inlet valve o-rings are good??

[gggGary]

It sounds like you are fighting several battles yet. The O rings that seal the float valves to the carb body are notorious leakers and should always be replaced at carb overhaul. This guy sells the o-rings very good and reasonable.

http://cycleorings.com/

When you have the valve seat bodies out if you look in the hole you will see an o-ring and a screen up in there, that screen will need most likely need cleaning. with all the screens out lots of carb cleaner through the passages should flush out the rest of the rust.
The gas leaks through the carb, pools at the intake valve runs into the cylinder and washes the oil off the cylinder wall and rings and contaminates your sump oil, none of that is good for your engine. In severe cases a cylinder full of gas can bend a rod when the piston tries to compress non- compressible liquid gasoline.
here is a photo of a valve body removal tool I made from a hole gauge. I just ground the ball to be a snug fit inside the body. tighten the handle and withdraw the valve body.Much better than messing up the body with needle nose pliers.

[cowb0y]

Sweet tool. Thanks for the insight into the gas intrusion into the oil. Once I have a minute, I will tear into the ol' bike again and see what I find. But as it sits, looks like I am gonna make an order from cycleorings.com.

[Steve]

... looks like I am gonna make an order from cycleorings.com.

While you are placing your order, be sure to also get the intake o-rings (if your bike uses them) and the stainless hardware to hold on the intake boots.

Another worthwhile investment to add to your order is the o-rings for the drain screws. Only a penny, and worth every bit of it.

.

[mike_of_bbg]

The #2 carb on my GS1100L is dripping gas out the air box side.

After a few cranks, gas starts dripping out the back (air box side) of #2 carb, which can be easily seen since the air box was left off this time.

The vent line that connects #2 carb with the petcock has gas in it and I dont remember seein it like this in the past.

Now, From BassCliff's Welcome:

13) Install new petcock, since I'm going to head to the roof with a rifle if I have to read about yet another #2 plug fouling and failed hillbilly attempts to rebuild the petcock and/or deny there's a problem.

DID YOU REPLACE YOUR PETCOCK?

It doesn't matter how well your carbs have been put together. If your petcock is dropping fuel down the vent line, it's going to get into your #2 cylinder and drip past the rings into your crankcase. At the very least, plug the vent line and the corresponding tap on carb #2, and when you try to start it set the petcock to prime. Prime doesn't allow as much fuel flow as "on", so you shouldn't ride in that condition. But it should be more than enough fuel flow to start (after, of course, you change the oil).

Your compression has nothing to do with your inlet seat o-ring condition. What good compression tells you is that, when your engine draws in air, that the valves, piston/rings, and head gasket are holding it in there well. So of the three needed things: fuel, air, and fire, air is in good shape.

And - the more info you give us, the better we can guide you. It took two weeks from your original post in this thread before pods and DJ stage 3 kit came up. Has the bike EVER run since those mods? Can we get a full, comprehensive history to date please?

Weak spark on one plug only is often caused by a bad plug cap. If a new plug doesn't help it:

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/electrical_odd-n-ends.html#A02

[cowb0y]

In weighing my options in dealing with my original, rusty tank I stumbled upon a good deal that came with more parts than I may need, including: a clean tank with petcock (PO said worked fine - we'll see soon), the DJ stage 3 carbs balanced with pods (which I put on tonight), and various other items.

I believe this eliminates my petcock issue (or at least I hope it does).

I sprayed starter fluid in the airbox end (with the pods off) and cranked the bike. I think is began to start/run!! This tells me that even though I have one weak spark (#1), it might run if I get the tank on and gas in it in the coming days.

I do plan to replace the spark plugs and do the coil mod on BikeCliff's website. (Thank you for all your efforts that BikeCliff!! I have shared that info with friends), but that will have to be after midterms and V-day.

Sorry for not given all the necessary info up front. No the bike hasnt run with the mods (until this evening's starting fluid starts).

Here's the history: So I bought the bike off a drunk Irish guy on St. Patrick's Day in '08. I put a new wiring harness, Dyna-S, plugs, wires, stator, rectifier, filled the dent in the tank and painted it (this is when i found the rust - lining was failing). I did replace the petcock as ordered, but lost it in the dent filling and painting process.
The bike ran for the summer of '08 and I put over 4,000 miles on it. But like an idiot, I just parked it thinkin I would ride it again soon. That was the crazy winter and it snow record levels and lengths here. So, once the snow cleared I changed the oil & gas and tried to start it. I got busy during this last summer and jus tinkered with it to no avail. It ran for a total of about 2 minutes all of '09! So, I have vowed to get her goin again and tonights performance has given me confidence.

My only hang up is the tank that came with all the new-to-me parts is longer than mine. Its from a 1981 GS1100EX and my bike is a 1980 GS1100L. So, I plan to fabricate a bracket to hold the top end secure and the bolt holes line up so I will just get a longer bolt, I think.

Any thoughts???

[cowb0y]

Got the Bike Running!!

Thanks to all your comments and especially to GS-ESW out of WA. He came over and after 2+ hours of tinkering, she runs! Thanks Eric. I appreciate all the inputs by everyone. There will be pics of the bike once I get everything squared away.