Another Fork Seal thread...

[Kcwiro]

I know... did the search found a little bit of everything figured best to put my questions into 1 spot I can reference.

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I found Matchless guide for fork seal replacemnet...very nice write up.

I saw the info on the leak proof molly seals..but it I could not find a listing for my 'E' model.. are they different for the L's?

Progressive site said I do not need spacer... anyone with a bike like mine find truth in this?

I honestly have never added air...do not have those...

for oil... I am 200lbs think 10-15w oil will surfice or should I look at going 20w....

anything other than the clips that might not hurt to have on hand when I doing the seals...right now I thinking I need the seal clips, seals, replacement dust boots as one of mine is cracking might as well switch both out....anything nice to haves I should poney up and get I really do not want any surprises later.

I am hoping my pitting on my forks is not in the new spring travel spot but I thinking new springs will keep me from diving so much anyway...

Fire away guys

[Theo]

Here is where I got mine. According to the fitment page, there is no difference between the L's and the E's.
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...Id=149885&mmy=

[Nessism]

I’m too lazy to look up the seal part numbers to compare between the E and L, but you can to see if they are the same… http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm You might want to get some new copper sealing washers for the screws which hold the damper rods while you are ordering parts.

15W oil is about right for someone your weight.

With Progressive springs you want the spring + spacer to be flush with the top of the fork leg at full extension. The caps will compress the springs slightly. PVC pipe works great to make spacers.

[Guest]

Yup fifteen weight will work nicely.

[Kcwiro]

few more questions

I have not looked at dennis kirk, just bike bandit... silly me yeah those list as compatible. Wiper dust cover kit...

Is that the top boot that I think it is that covers up everything or do I still want to order the cap from the dealer?

Is there any more parts I should snag for the fork seal job....clips... things that can get destroyed if I am not careful etc. The diagram just looks like a mess of small parts that can cause big problems if I screw up somewhere and I would rather be over than under prepared.

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Clutch springs... Clutch job

From what I read on here the plates are hardly at fault for slippage... I was thinking about doing a oil pump inspection while I was looking at my clutch springs as I am right there anyway. I suppose I will get clutch discs if I find the discs are worn.

I am going to do an inspection of the oil pump while I am in here...If I am going through this trouble to do the springs and inspect the clutch I might as well go a touch deeper and check out that vital component while I have the cover off.

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Thoughts?

[gearhead13]

If you are worried about your oil pump, then you should clean out your oil pan, lots of crud gets sucked into the pump unfiltered.

[Theo]

I have not looked at dennis kirk, just bike bandit... silly me yeah those list as compatible. Wiper dust cover kit...

Is that the top boot that I think it is that covers up everything or do I still want to order the cap from the dealer?

Is there any more parts I should snag for the fork seal job....clips... things that can get destroyed if I am not careful etc. The diagram just looks like a mess of small parts that can cause big problems if I screw up somewhere and I would rather be over than under prepared.

Yes the wiper is the boot that covers everything up so you won't need to order that separately. Also if you are not careful like me, you can mess up the DU ring, or part 5 in this diagram. Maybe someone with more experience can chime in with anything else to watch out for.

[81ZUKI75]

My experience on an '81 (forks are slightly different I think)

I know... did the search found a little bit of everything figured best to put my questions into 1 spot I can reference.

---------------------

I found Matchless guide for fork seal replacemnet...very nice write up.

I saw the info on the leak proof molly seals..but it I could not find a listing for my 'E' model.. are they different for the L's?

Progressive site said I do not need spacer... anyone with a bike like mine find truth in this?

I honestly have never added air...do not have those...

for oil... I am 200lbs think 10-15w oil will surfice or should I look at going 20w....
anything other than the clips that might not hurt to have on hand when I doing the seals...right now I thinking I need the seal clips, seals, replacement dust boots as one of mine is cracking might as well switch both out....anything nice to haves I should poney up and get I really do not want any surprises later.




I am hoping my pitting on my forks is not in the new spring travel spot but I thinking new springs will keep me from diving so much anyway...

Fire away guys

I needed a 1" spacer with the Progressive spings to get the sag about right. I used a piece of 1/2" PVC plus (2) 3/8" dia washers which have a 1" O.D. and fit perfectly into the fork tube.

....originally installed 15 W fork oil to the prescribed level but found that front-end dive was not much improved, though the handling was a little better ... came back later and added a little more than the factory spec to reduce front-end dive a bit more.

I had to make a seal driver from a 15" long piece of 1 1/2" sch 40 PVC from Lowes (had to buy 10', costs about $3.50).

I hope this will help you get prepared and good luck.

[Smokinapankake]

Those copper washers Nessism is talking about are nothing more than crush washers, identical to those used on your brake banjo bolts.
I know this because just last week I replaced them while overhauling my forks.

And yes, if you're going to be in there, you might as well replace them too.

Just FYI.

[Big T]

Scott

Give me a call this weekend and I'll send you my seal puller if you don't have one.

[Kcwiro]

I thought I was home free,,,,,

Well the seals were done this last weekend and I was riding home in the black of night with heavy rain. Things felt good but it appears I spoke too soon. I have one of the seals leaking pretty heavy on my trip back from the gas station today. I am guessing the seal either did not seat properly or was damaged on install Doh!

Can I get away with re-seating the same seal or should I just order a replacement set and switch out the troubled one?... I went with 10W oil, and I was hitting some rougher roads today ..... no AIR on my forks as I do not have ones with the air attachments. Progressive springs on front...

[Guest]

Well the seals were done this last weekend and I was riding home in the black of night with heavy rain. Things felt good but it appears I spoke too soon. I have one of the seals leaking pretty heavy on my trip back from the gas station today. I am guessing the seal either did not seat properly or was damaged on install Doh!

Can I get away with re-seating the same seal or should I just order a replacement set and switch out the troubled one?... I went with 10W oil, and I was hitting some rougher roads today ..... no AIR on my forks as I do not have ones with the air attachments. Progressive springs on front...

Use 15WT and try some Leakproof pro-moly fork seals.
Are the forks pitted in anyway? Did you cross hatch the fork with some 800 grit sandpaper?

[Theo]

I have a set of Leak proof pro moly seals that will fit your bike. PM me if you want them.
-Theo

[Kcwiro]

I have a set of Leak proof pro moly seals that will fit your bike. PM me if you want them.
-Theo

When I called Dennis Kirk about the seal they refered me to the warrenty department for Molly, left a message on their machine earlier did not hear back yet.

Use 15WT and try some Leakproof pro-moly fork seals.
Are the forks pitted in anyway? Did you cross hatch the fork with some 800 grit sandpaper?

I got the Leak proof ones from Dennis Kirk, the fork when steve was switching them looked just fine and were cleaned. No on the sand paper, 10W is compatible thought it would be ok | It not too hard to drain and move to the 15WT I suppose. Will see what the negative slip trick and inspection of the snap ring turns up. I'll do that tomorrow when it is light out. Other fork is fine...nuts

[Kcwiro]

Well here's your problem...

Upon inspection today I have discovered my leaky fork seal was in fact leaking due to the snap ring jarring loose. I used my punch tool to gently tap the seal back down and re-secured with the snap ring.

I am thinking my spacer is too long and is making my front springs a too stiff. As I noticed the leak after I hit the bump leading into my parking lot. I think the spacers need to be shortened a touch and 15WT oil is going in.