non releasing clutch (guessing this isn't the first time?)

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  • engel

    #1

    non releasing clutch (guessing this isn't the first time?)

    search function just came in handy: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...tch+basket+nut

    went for a run friday after getting the carbs about right on an 81 gsx1100 and the plates are holding the power beautifully. towards the end of my run (was to have been the middle) a pull on the lever resulted in more than normal travel and each subsequent pull got longer till fully in wasn't disengaging it at all. while slowing down to around idle in third the oil light and all systems monitor bulbs illuminated. a quick blip of the throttle to change into second and the lights went back out and didn't bother me again. i moped her home and luckily caught only green lights and clear intersections on the way. wondered if the clutch cable had given up the ghost but each draw on it moved the clutch release lever smoothly forward and back.

    at home i popped the oil filler cap and could see the pressure plate was indeed moving when the release lever was pushed but the springs weren't being compressed. and the friction plates were moving back and forth with it. brain said that the inner clutch basket must be floating free on its splining and therefore something inside bordering on expensive had occurred. horrible images of shattered alloy, snapped shafts, mangled threads and circlips and other maladies began to flash before my bank statement.

    release lever off, brake pedal off, footrest off, sidestand down and off the centrestand then clutch cover off. both the inner and outer baskets could be moved in and out so i plucked the six screws and springs and removed the pressure plate and there she was. the old free floating nut that ain't holding down a bloody thing trick batman! the thread on the spline seems ok but the nut has torn six strips of thread clean out of its centre making a very pretty pattern:







    theres a line on the lock washer where it's been used once, flattened out, flipped over and reused and feasibly the nuts been reused and either weakened or overtightened. either way this is the first time i can recall seeing a thread cut through a spline on any axial load bearing application rather than a full thread cut at a smaller diameter and a large washer. i realize it works on who knows how many bikes worldwide but it still seems dodgy.

    the oil light i believe came on from the angle cut on the primary drive gears walking the outer basket towards the clutch cover and the four nibs that the pump gear takes its drive from having their driving slots lifted away. a quick look at the manual shows the oil switch hooked up to the systems monitor so thats explained too. that the light went back out gives me the impression that the pump drive relocated itself and hasn't suffered. a new nut and lockwasher will be here wednesday ($10.25. a good deal cheaper than i'd been thinking she'd cost to fix at the beginning)and i might look into the hardened APE nut as time goes on. as a bonus all the plates look ok and the inner and outer plate slots in the baskets are pretty well perfect.

    has anyone else experienced the threads tearing out complete rather than a nut simply loosening and causing a rattle? there was no indication of a problem till the whole lot went south and i lost the clutch, and the nut doesn't look like it's rotated or been fretting.

    thanks for your time, glen.
  • Nessism
    Forum LongTimer
    GSResource Superstar
    Past Site Supporter
    Super Site Supporter
    • Mar 2006
    • 35788
    • Torrance, CA

    #2
    APE sells a heavy duty nut, not cheap though. The stock nuts are known for being soft and loosening, although yours is the first I've heard about stripping out like that.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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    • tkent02
      Forum LongTimer
      Past Site Supporter
      • Jan 2006
      • 35571
      • Near South Park

      #3
      Interesting that the wimpy reused dodgy lock washer didn't fail, the nut itself failed.

      I bet it was over torqued a few too many times.
      http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

      Life is too short to ride an L.

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      • srsupertrap
        Forum Sage
        Past Site Supporter
        • Oct 2007
        • 2208
        • Erie, CO.

        #4
        Originally posted by engel
        the oil light i believe came on from the angle cut on the primary drive gears walking the outer basket towards the clutch cover and the four nibs that the pump gear takes its drive from having their driving slots lifted away. a quick look at the manual shows the oil switch hooked up to the systems monitor so thats explained too. that the light went back out gives me the impression that the pump drive relocated itself and hasn't suffered.
        thanks for your time, glen.
        I wouldn't worry about the pump that is easy to replace. How long did the oil light stay On? Because at that point no oil was circulating through the engine but it was still running. No sure how long it takes to muck up the ineternals but it may require further investigation.
        Steve

        1979 GS1000E (45 Yrs), 1981 GPz550 (11 Yrs)

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        • Nessism
          Forum LongTimer
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          • Mar 2006
          • 35788
          • Torrance, CA

          #5
          The pump gears are behind the clutch so they momentarily disconnected when the clutch hub walked outward. Just replace that nut and you should be good to go.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment

          • blowerbike
            Forum Guru
            GSResource Superstar
            • Aug 2008
            • 7057
            • Ohio Closer to KY Than Cleveland

            #6
            under severe use ive seen quite a few stock hub nuts push right off like yours.
            when this happens the entire clutch pack pulls outwards when disengaging the clutch lever and the bike keeps pulling because the clutch pack is still 100% engaged.
            an H/D or an 1150 hub nut is the fix.

            Comment

            • Nessism
              Forum LongTimer
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              • Mar 2006
              • 35788
              • Torrance, CA

              #7
              Originally posted by blowerbike
              under severe use ive seen quite a few stock hub nuts push right off like yours.
              when this happens the entire clutch pack pulls outwards when disengaging the clutch lever and the bike keeps pulling because the clutch pack is still 100% engaged.
              an H/D or an 1150 hub nut is the fix.
              Those APE nuts are expensive, is the 1150 nut a more cost effective solution? Also will it fit on an 8V 1000?

              Part# 09140-24014 Desc NUT USD Price 7.04
              Last edited by Nessism; 02-21-2010, 01:41 PM.
              Ed

              To measure is to know.

              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

              Comment

              • blowerbike
                Forum Guru
                GSResource Superstar
                • Aug 2008
                • 7057
                • Ohio Closer to KY Than Cleveland

                #8
                Originally posted by Nessism
                Those APE nuts are expensive, is the 1150 nut a more cost effective solution? Also will it fit on an 8V 1000?

                Part# 09140-24014 Desc NUT USD Price 7.04
                the 1150 nut is not chrome moly but it is the same thickness of the H/D unit.
                the 1150 nut lets you catch a few extra threads which will fix the problem for the most part.
                the heli gears side load is evil under severe use.
                when straight cut primary gears are installed you can run a stock 750/1000/1100 nut and not have any problems.
                i'm not sure on the new cost of the 1150 nut but a used one could be had for 10-15 bucks or less.
                750/850/1000/1100 8v.&16v. all use the same hub nut.
                (quote
                Part# 09140-24014 Desc NUT USD Price 7.04

                if thats for an 1150 hub nut...thats good price to fix the problem!!
                Last edited by blowerbike; 02-21-2010, 02:22 PM.

                Comment

                • engel

                  #9
                  Originally posted by srsupertrap
                  I wouldn't worry about the pump that is easy to replace. How long did the oil light stay On? Because at that point no oil was circulating through the engine but it was still running. No sure how long it takes to muck up the ineternals but it may require further investigation.
                  all of maybe two to three seconds under no load. within an instant it was into second for the corner and the light dropped off and never came back up. only the cam is in plain bearings i think and they'll run in residual oil for a bit longer than that before giving drama i'm sure, ie: as per a new filter or long dormant startup.


                  blowerbikeQuote:


                  "the 1150 nut is not chrome moly but it is the same thickness of the H/D unit.
                  the 1150 nut lets you catch a few extra threads which will fix the problem for the most part.
                  the heli gears side load is evil under severe use.
                  when straight cut primary gears are installed you can run a stock 750/1000/1100 nut and not have any problems.
                  i'm not sure on the new cost of the 1150 nut but a used one could be had for 10-15 bucks or less.
                  750/850/1000/1100 8v.&16v. all use the same hub nut.
                  (quote
                  Part# 09140-24014 Desc NUT USD Price 7.04

                  if thats for an 1150 hub nut...thats good price to fix the problem!! "

                  the gs series has been around a fair while and many have seen dragracing stresses. was the change of nut on the 1135cc bikes perhaps an acknowledgement of a weakspot on the earlier motors or just a precaution to deal with the larger bikes 124 hp? for example was it put into the later smaller capacity fours from 84 on as well?

                  thanks again.

                  Comment

                  • blowerbike
                    Forum Guru
                    GSResource Superstar
                    • Aug 2008
                    • 7057
                    • Ohio Closer to KY Than Cleveland

                    #10
                    84-86 1150 only had the thicker style hub nut/no other GS's.
                    the helical gear side load is really bad under severe use so if an engine makes more HP the problem with pulling/pushing the threads will be more evident.
                    the oil pump gear did not become disengaged until you pulled the clutch in.
                    the cams and bearing areas along with the rockers are fine i'm sure.

                    Comment

                    • engel

                      #11
                      " the oil pump gear did not become disengaged until you pulled the clutch in."

                      not sure there sorry. by that stage of the ride even with instinct i'd stopped grabbing at the lever. the lever wasn't really returning to it's full out posi by that point and it was definitely only while on the overrun/full off throttle it occurred. grabbed the actuator arm while stationary with the engine off and the outer friction plate was running fully clear of the the outer basket and nearly the second as well.

                      clearly the springs are clamping the clutch pack pretty well or the plates would have slipped and rotated baulking them from re entry for which i can be be pleased. the clutch doesn't to my mind feel overly heavy for something that will hold my weight, the bikes weight, and circa 100 horsepower.

                      " the cams and bearing areas along with the rockers are fine i'm sure. "


                      agreed. i've struck plain bearinged car engines that have been dealt substantially harsher treatment and just taken it in their stride. non baffled sumps starving the pickup and cavitating the oil supply at stupid revs mid corner and though you feel bad at the time they really aren't worried by it. lets face it, suzuki with roller main and big ends were kinder to us (bar my beloved MZ and suzi's own "borrowed" two stroke designs with the roller gudgeons) than many companys and they'll stand up to suspect lubing that many wouldn't.



                      i don't think dad will be subjecting the powerplant to what i've put it through in the last fortnight trying to suss out the carburation and timing so the new nut should be relatively unstressed. a mate is looking into the 1135's nut for me through his work and i'll check out the freight and costing of the APE nut as a safeguard.

                      out of interest, would a bit of loctite be advisable even with the lockwasher?
                      Last edited by Guest; 02-22-2010, 06:22 AM.

                      Comment

                      • Guest

                        #12
                        Get an APE clutch hub nut and a new lock washer and ride. I've never used loctite because I didn't want to bugger up the threads on the tranny.

                        Comment

                        • Guest

                          #13
                          I want to know how you get the nuts off an ape ??? Cheers , Simon .

                          Comment

                          • tkent02
                            Forum LongTimer
                            Past Site Supporter
                            • Jan 2006
                            • 35571
                            • Near South Park

                            #14
                            Very quickly, while he is sleeping, with your track shoes on and a slower buddy along for fun.
                            http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                            Life is too short to ride an L.

                            Comment

                            • Guest

                              #15
                              Originally posted by tkent02
                              Very quickly, while he is sleeping, with your track shoes on and a slower buddy along for fun.
                              Why does that crack me up just thinking about it ??? Some people have the damnedest jobs .
                              Wanted... Ape nut harvester and buddy . Track shoes provided .
                              Cheers , Simon .

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