Slow cranker when hot

[Guest]

The cams are in and it runs. I need a new battery as the old one gave up due to the bike sitting for 18 months. My question is what battery that will fit in the stock spot will give me the most cranking power. The motor is a 1327 cc with 10.5 to 1 compression. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I did a search for AGM batterys and sounds like a winner. FBG sells a "Dragbike" battery also... Thanks in advance..

[rapidray]

The FBG battery WON'T fit in the stock battery box. The SEALED Yuasa equivalent of the YBL14A2 is a great battery. You will find the bike MUCH easier to start if you power up the starter button so it is live all the time, that way you can get the engine spinning & then turn on the key so the bike fires after the engine is spinning. This way the engine isn't fighting the ignition trying to fire when you first start cranking it. Call me at 714-356-7845 if you need help with this. I set ALL of my big motors up this way & it is easier on the starter clutches also. Ray.

[blowerbike]

you can put the FBG battery on its side and it will fit.
i have seen worn starter brushes make an engine crank hard when hot(heat sink).
also...
what ray said.
add a switch to kill coil voltage and once the engine is spinning flip the switch to restore coil voltage.
no more banging/clacking/chugging ect...

[hampshirehog]

Ditto worn starter motor brushes plus a dirty armature are both common causes of hot starting problems.

[Guest]

Or dirty connections and bad grounds.

[Guest]

Or dirty connections and bad grounds.

Thanks for the ideas... I am going to get a 220 cranking amps agm from Batterymart. Then figure out the hot wire to the starter switch. Then disable the clutch safety switch(So I don't have to turn the igniton switch with my teeth).Then check all the grounds and dirty connections. By then I will be ready to check the starter. I am just happy that I got the new cams and rockers in and it started! Everything else should be a breeze. I also bought a kill switch for the dragstrip that I have to figure out. That will be for a new thread. Thanks again guys...
Curt

[Steve]

Thanks for the ideas... I am going to get a 220 cranking amps agm from Batterymart. Then figure out the hot wire to the starter switch. Then disable the clutch safety switch(So I don't have to turn the igniton switch with my teeth).

I have not done the other mods, but hear they are not that hard. I have done the clutch switch mod, and it is VERY easy. Just remove the headlight from the bucket. Follow the clutch switch wires from the switch into the headlight bucket, you will see a couple of bullet connectors. Separate them. Take the two connectors that are part of the main harness (not the switch side) and put them back together. Put the headlight back in.

.

[blowerbike]

the red gast battery is over 500cca...
you can mount it on its side..its sealed and is a dry cell.
i'm about 99.99% sure that it is not a gel.
i have customers with there battery's mounted like this for the past several years and have had zero problems.
the gast battery makes a stock engine spin like it has no spark plugs in it...
BAD MO-FO!

[Guest]

The clutch mod will be done tomorrow... I ordered the battery 2 hours ago... If the no juice to the coils doesn't help, I will start saving the pennies for the bad mo-fo battery from FBG. Nothing worse than no crank at the track... Thanks again
Curt

[Nessism]

Don't forget about that mod Ray mentioned, get the engine spinning before putting voltage to the coils or your starter clutch will suffer tremendously.

[Guest]

Thursday is the play day and I will get the hot wire to the switch... When I first tried the new cams, I got the dreaded 'CLANK' and almost cried... Once I checked the clearances and spun it again, it fired up. I don't want to hear that sound ever again... Thanks for the reminder and will send photos of the completed project...
Curt

[jwhelan65]

Having a slow hot cranker is no way to go though life..

[Guest]

Tell me about it!! I guess it better than a fast popper...