Looking for ideas. replacing old switches/stuff w/new GSXR??

[Anonymous]

Hello,
I'm looking for ideas, seeing as how I have to buy new or different parts after the low side ...
1.) I've been hating my turn signal switch for a while anyway, even though it's not broken I would like to replace it with something updated with a non-sticking switch. So, I was wondering if I could upgrade my `86 GS550ES switch with a newer GSXR push to cancel switch. If so, is there a certain model or year I should look for? I'm going to need something with a choke lever.

2.) How about the turn signals ... any tasteful suggestions?

Oh yeah, since I can't ride at the moment ... any advice on cylinder boaring ... how much can be taken out and where could I find pistons to match.

Any and all input goes toward a good cause.
Thanks,

[kevan]

I have a 84 GS750 and have changed switches on my bike. I have a switch from a 89 Katana and am going to replace it with one from a newer GSXR. The connecter on the switch assembly is the same, the wiring, can be slightlty different, but it is easy to make it work.

Kevan

[Anonymous]

Which GSXR are you thinking of using?

[fastpakr]

So I'm resurrecting this from the grave. I'm in the middle of switching to a left switch from an 02 GSXR (same from 01-03 though) and it looks like a winner. Here's what I've found so far:
The newer switch has a locating pin on the top that slides into a hole in the bar which is not present on our bikes. Easy enough - just mark where you want it and drill a hole.
Choke connection is different. The newer switch is designed for a cable with a barrel type end that locks into place, like what you find on the throttle cable where it connects to the grip. I ended up compressing a split washer around the end of the existing cable to give it a bit more surface area, which seems to work. Also, you need something to keep the cable sheath from moving once it's in the switch. I'm still looking for a good resolution to this. For the moment it's got a second washer crimped on tight that locks it from pulling farther into the control - working so far.
Wiring - this is going to be the biggest pain. I matched colors last night just as a quick test - the turn signals start and cancel just like they're supposed to. However, the headlight and horn do not work, so I'll be comparing wiring diagrams today or tomorrow to figure out the rest. As soon as I've got the wiring figured out, I'll post the results.

When this is done, I'll be very excited. The switch design is a thousand times better than the factory unit on the '82. Separating the headlight from the turn signals makes for much cleaner operation, and push to cancel is an added bonus. The choke lever is easier to operate, and the horn button moves more precisely.

[Billy Ricks]

I have late model GSXR left switches and a Yosh throttle with stock type switches on the right.

[fastpakr]

The same one I posted a picture of? I'm curious what you did with the choke cable.

[Billy Ricks]

The same one I posted a picture of? I'm curious what you did with the choke cable.

I didn't need the feature at all. Sorry, not any help.

[fastpakr]

Blast. Didn't happen to keep any record of wiring, did you?

[Billy Ricks]

Blast. Didn't happen to keep any record of wiring, did you?

Sure didn't. It wasn't hard though. I just checked for continuity to see which wires did what.

[fastpakr]

Fair enough. I'm sure I'll get it sorted out when I get back to it, especially since I have the wiring info for both bikes so it's easier. I'll try to take some pictures when it's done.

[fastpakr]

OK, the swap is done and the new unit is wonderful. Makes a great, simple mod to these older bikes. Wiring is as follows:
Straight match
Black/White
White
Yellow
Light blue
Light green
Black
Yellow/white

Cut and splice (original harness/new switch wires)
Green to Black/blue

For the choke cable, use one or two split washers crimped around the end of the factory cable, then insert it into the plastic choke handle connection. This spreads the load to avoid pulling the smaller end of the factory cable out of the new switch housing. On the outside of the housing, pull the slack out of the cable, then use 2-3 black cable ties to keep the cable from moving further into the housing.



If anybody is interested, there's another switch on eBay right now for a great price from a Bandit (looks exactly the same as the one below that I used). Also, the Hayabusa switch is identical except for the addition of a Pass button (and 4 way flasher switch on the newest model) - I haven't tried to wire one, but there's no reason it should be any more complicated since both functions can be done internally without any obvious need for more complicated wiring.

[fastpakr]

Here's another picture:

[Billy Ricks]

Nice follow-up. It's been a couple of years since I did mine and I couldn't remember how much of the wiring was coded the same.

[fastpakr]

Yeah, I only overcomplicated it initially because I kept trying to incorporate the separate bullet connection power wire into the main harness, so I was never getting power to the light. Once I got it all sorted out, there was just the one wire that didn't match right up. It was very nice to have it working and clean up the wiring (it's now all individually wrapped in heatshrink, with the whole loom nestled in electric tape. Looking back, I'd go for one that has the Pass button.
If you're trying to find a switch, look at Bandits, GSXR's/Busa's, TL1000S/R's, and SV's (maybe more, I'm still running across models that use the same switch). eBay has a tone of these - if you spend more than $25-30 shipped, it's too much. I think I paid $22 for mine to the door.
Check out this, this, and this for low priced auctions for the right switch.

[fastpakr]

I didn't need the feature at all. Sorry, not any help.

I meant to ask this earlier, but why didn't you need the choke?