stupid stuck exhaust bolts

[Anonymous]

I know this has been discussed before, but I'm hoping that since the last time, some new knowledge on the subject has been discovered.

I'm taking the exhausts off. Broke the first bolt real quick. Luckily there's like 1/2 inch sticking out. Then, for the rest of the bolts, I started applying heat from a propane torch for ten minutes before removing them, and started using an electric impact socket wrench. That got the next few out just fine (though still not easy).

Then I got to the two center ones. First one wouldn't budge after the heat application and such, so I gave up on it for the time. Came back today and did the other inside one, and had the same response (or lack thereof). Finally tried doing a little hand turning, and promptly snapped the bolt of (grrrrrrr). Then I tried the first inside one again, getting the head of the bolt red hot before messing with it. Still wouldn't move. So, anyone have any further suggestions on how to get this out before I break a third bolt? I've been soaking them in liquid wrench too.

I'm sure I'll be asking questions about getting those two broken ones out soon, but for now, I'm dealing with the immediate problems.

Thanks a ton.

--Tyler

[SqDancerLynn1]

Don't heat the head of the bolt, heat the stud part where it goes into the head. Some time if you work it tight/loosen/tight/ and wack it with a hammer . it might break free. When you get them out REPLACE all of them

[Hoomgar]

And remember the anti-seize compound when putting the new ones back in!

[Hap Call]

Don't heat the head of the bolt, heat the stud part where it goes into the head. Some time if you work it tight/loosen/tight/ and wack it with a hammer . it might break free. When you get them out REPLACE all of them

I've heard a theory on this (from one of the millwrights I work with) and it makes sense . The reason you heat an object (either a nut or a bolt) is to get it to expand and break free. On nuts, it is best to heat the nut, especially the outer circumference, so that when it expands it increases the inner diameter of the nut allowing it to come off easier. On bolts, the best way is to heat the bolt up, as Lynn suggested, by heating the shaft. Instead of loosening it while it is still hot, allow it to cool by squirting drill oil on it. This does two things, first it cools the shaft (stud) at a greater rate then the surrounding metal, thus contracting the threads of the shaft from the threads of the head, and second, the cooling allows some of the oil to be pulled into the thread area, allowing for lubrication between the threads. I suggest heating and cooling the shaft using the drill oil several times before attempting to remove the bolt. This will allow enough oil to penetrate and help release the bolt. Do as Lynn suggest and hit it with a good forceful rap each time you do it to help free it up. The final time you heat it up, cool it with the drill oil then quickly attempt to screw it out.

Use the drill bit oil because if you use flammable oil you may have a fire on you hands. Drill oil is made to handle higher temperatures.

Hap

[dwarf8]

Lots of good ideas!
I find if I start with a good wire brushing of the threads to remove any rust or debris that's in the grooves helps.
Another way I go after exhaust systems is to add a second nut and turn the stud right out rather than remove the original nut.

On another note, the reason exhaust parts don't always respond well to heat is that they are constantly heated and cooled and a bond forms between the 2 pieces. Soaking and then impact will often work wonders.

[Anonymous]

A tip for getting out the ones that broke off - if there is some bolt still sticking out, use a small pipe wrench on it (with heat, etc.). The wrench grabs MUCH better than vise-grips or similar and the harder you turn, the harder it grabs. I have used this before to get out stubborn studs and it worked like a charm.

Mark

[Anonymous]

I've removed broken off exhaust studs with screw extractors (EZ Outs) but you need a good titanium or HSS bit to get a starter hole in the broken off end of the stud. You can break off the extractor if you don't drill deep enough into the stud or use the wrong size extractor. Then you're really F%$#$%!
Also, try heating and then holding a piece of ice wrapped in a plastic bag, against the heated stud. The extreme temperaure change may help.
Have a look at this: http://www.dansmc.com/worrying.html (I don't go for the bible stuff, but it's a good resource)

[Hoomgar]

A tip for getting out the ones that broke off - if there is some bolt still sticking out, use a small pipe wrench on it (with heat, etc.). The wrench grabs MUCH better than vise-grips or similar and the harder you turn, the harder it grabs. I have used this before to get out stubborn studs and it worked like a charm.

Mark

I second that, a small pipe wrench is way better than vise grips. It is actually so good that you will be able to twist the remaining stud off if it doesn't break free and start to turn so be careful and watch what is happening as you apply the pressure.

CRC break free works wonders when you apply it liberally and let it sock over night. It really does a good job of penitrating down into the threads. Even rusted bonded ones.

[nabrams]

Been there, done that.
So, when all else fails (which is pretty likely from the way you're describing it), you'll have to resort to the drill/tap/helicoil routine. It's better that having an extractor tip break off inside the bolt (which will almost certainly happen).

Here's some text from a response I made in another post:
I have a spare engine that I removed from a parts bike. When I removed the exhaust, 3 of the 4 bolts sheared off (even after applying PB blaster and letting it sit all night).
So, I decided to bite the bullet and drill/tap/helicoil the 3 bolts. It worked out fairly well, though one of the resulting holes was off-center enough that it required widening the hole of the exhaust clamp (just a bit) to accomodate it.
If you've never done the drill/tap/helicoil routine, then I strongly suggest practicing on something else before working on the head. The key to success is getting that initial small hole perfectly centered (or nearly so). After that it's fairly straightforward.

[Anonymous]

Ok, I managed to get the last full bolt out and one of the broken bolts (the one with the longer piece sticking out). Went to a friend's house with a hotter torch (I had propane, he had acetylene), and I heated while he carefully turned the two out. That last one didn't have enough sticking out to get a good grip on it, so I'm going to have to take the head off over the summer and drill it out or something.

Anyway, as of now I have seven of the bolts out, and that one broken one. Is it ok to stick the new exhaust on with only one bolt clamping down that one pipe?

And yes, I know, new bolts going in with anti-seize.

Also, any suggestions on how to get those old gaskets out? Just work at it?

Thanks.

--Tyler

[SqDancerLynn1]

You have to dig the gaskets out If you can with side cutters to cut it so there is something to grab or tap a screwdriver into the seal and pry it out.
You may have an exhause leak , but you can run it with one bolt missing