When testing to imrove your charging system goes bad

[Anonymous]

I have had an ongoing low charge setting. Last week end I got out THE STATOR PAPERS and went at it. The bike is an 82 GK and it has a lot of miles on her but what can I say, she has won my heart but I would love her more if she wasn't batterry charger dependant.

Walked through stator papers with an old $12.00 anolog multimeter. I read about 55 volts coming out of the three yellow stator wires. I know the paper says replace if not over 60 but I thought it was reasonable to allow for a margin of error. In the end I went to pull of the regulator and recognized that my multimeter did not have a diod tester so I just put that part back together. Now when I try to start it it doesn't want to start. It backfires occasionally but when it does start it runs smooth All I can think is I need to do it again and clean the connections on everything and that should heal it.


But about the r/r I am wondering if I would be best served by having the red output wire on the r/r run directly to the battery with an inline fuse. Right now I only have the positive cable on that terminal and I am at a bit of a loss as to how any V get back to the battery from the r/r.

Any guidance?

RG

[argonsagas]

Re: When testing to imrove your charging system goes bad

I have had an ongoing low charge setting. Last week end I got out THE STATOR PAPERS and went at it. The bike is an 82 GK and it has a lot of miles on her but what can I say, she has won my heart but I would love her more if she wasn't batterry charger dependant.

Walked through stator papers with an old $12.00 anolog multimeter. I read about 55 volts coming out of the three yellow stator wires. I know the paper says replace if not over 60 but I thought it was reasonable to allow for a margin of error. In the end I went to pull of the regulator and recognized that my multimeter did not have a diod tester so I just put that part back together. Now when I try to start it it doesn't want to start. It backfires occasionally but when it does start it runs smooth All I can think is I need to do it again and clean the connections on everything and that should heal it.


But about the r/r I am wondering if I would be best served by having the red output wire on the r/r run directly to the battery with an inline fuse. Right now I only have the positive cable on that terminal and I am at a bit of a loss as to how any V get back to the battery from the r/r.

Any guidance?

RG

I would recommend you set aside the sweep-hand unit and get a digital multimeter. Most will do diode checks, and the decimals are much easier to read. One volt difference is significant, and even a half-volt makes a significant difference in your charge performance.

What voltage readings do you get at the battery?

Also, was the battery filled to its proper levels, and, after filling, was it slow-charged before the test?

You did not say what RPM level was used, but if you have 55 volts on all three wires your stator is working.

The red wire from the R/R presently runs into the harness and then to the battery. The system would definitely be improved if you ran the wire directly to the battery.

There is no fuse on this wire.


The system would be further improved if you ran an additional wire from the battery to the frame or engine, as an extra ground.

Doing both of these could improve your voltage input at the battery, and ease the draw from the battery.

[Anonymous]

why thak you.

Those assignments are all doable, achievable and hopefully will improve my quality of life.

Thanks

RG

[Anonymous]

rED WIRE FUSEd

I have schematics on the G, GT, GLT, & GLZ and the red wire from the R/R does go thru a fuse on its way to the battery. The 15 amp main fuse is the one. Look at it this way, if a couple of the diodes in the bridge rectifier were to short out you are going to take the battery directly to ground producing much smoke and melted wires. It is not a good idea to bypass the fuse.