Update w/ pIcs - Just got a 1980 Gs 750 beater -

[Anonymous]

Took some pics.

http://photos.yahoo.com/mrgoodbarx@sbcglobal.net

Here is a run down of the problems I think it has.. I think I got took.

1. Looks like the fuel valve (petcock?) is missing the switch/adjuster.

2. The very furthest front cover (bout the size of a small hand) through the exhaust pipes, what is this? and it appears to be leaking oil. pic461,

3. Also, I think fuel is getting into the oil. As it looks kinda wet.

4. Does the '80 750 have 6 gears? the bike indicates a 6th gear, but does not go into it.

5. If I try to start it after its warmed up, the starter chugs and churns and doesnt want turn over, unless Its in neutral. And even then has a difficult time

6. While starting When in gear/first it lunges forward even with the clutch all the way in.

7. The steering/center stem is underneath the choke, I don't see it underthe handle bars, as seen in the pics. I've tighten it as much as I can, still wobbles.

8. I'm kinda wondering if the bike hasnt been pieced together with several different gs bike parts.

9. The vin number looks bogus, Vin#GS75X508080, when I bought it
he told me it was an '85. but is actually an '80. Anyone know where the Vin# is stamped? It is registered under that vin in ca.

10. when fully warmed up, it idles at 2k. when cold seems to idle between 1k-1.5k, what is the correct idle? I'm sure I need to pull the carbs and clean and adjust.

11. and of course it is getting increasingly more difficult to change gears.
I'm sure it needs a new clutch, its also making that 'shhhshshs' noise down in that area, which may be the loose clutch bolt?


Well If anyone has some ideas on this beast.. I'd like to hear it.
Thanks,
John


Looks like it came out of mad max. Previous owner(s) painted the entire thing matte black.

Paid 750, runs ok. Seat needs to be replaced.
Here are some issues.
Front end wobbles uncontrollably if I take my hands off the bars at any speed. Also, Durring turns it has some play/slop in the steering like its way to loose. I figure this might be bearings? It tried tightening the bolt right underneath the choke, but no real improvement.

While applying gas, there is a noticeable noise coming from eng/trans area. Like a bad bearing? If I pull in clutch or dont apply throttle, it doesn't make the sound. Clutch? Trans? Just sounds like grinding noise, like a bad bearing.

[Billy Ricks]

Wobble is probably a combination of alot of things from the sound of this bike. Loose or worn out steering stem bearings. Bad tire, and out of balance tire. If the tire is okay check that it is balanced. After that get the front end up in the air and loosen all the bolts on the front end including the axle. Then start with the axle and work your way up tightening all the bolts you loosened. Rear wheel could be out of alignment too.

The rattle sounds like typical clutch problems. Take a good look at the clutch basket and the nut that holds it on.

[Anonymous]

I dont see a lot of places to tighten on the steering/forks, where are these points?
Thanks,
John

[Billy Ricks]

You have to pull the top clamp off where the bars mount to get to the steering stem nut. While you check that you may as well remove the fork and check the steering stem bearings. If they work smooth clean them up and put fresh grease in them. Clean the steering head bearing surfaces up too. Reinstall the fork. Tighten the steering stem nut to about 30 lbs. Turn the fork lock to lock about 7 or 8 times to check for any binding. Then back off on the steering stem nut. The nut I'm talking about should be a slotted round one. Once you put the top clamp back on and it's steering stem nut the round one isn't going anywhere.

If you look at the triple clamp you should see some pinch bolts on the top and bottom clamp. Those need to be loosened. to make sure the fork tubes are aligned.

[Anonymous]

thanks,
Ill give that a shot.

[Anonymous]

update

[Anonymous]

I belive the GS's used many of the same parts on many models, the 750 is a 5 speed, but when you look close you can see the 6 there for the smalled bikes.

Also, the cover you asked about in Q.2 is the oil filter cover. Probably just needs a new gasket.

You may just need to adjust the clutch cable, perhaps its not disengaging fully.

Drew

[Billy Ricks]

The VIN they go by is on the neck of the frame.

[Anonymous]

thanks guys.

I wish it had a 6th, as it feels like it needs to shift up another gear at speed.

While on the freeway yesterday, the bike started to surge then slow(in 1 sec intervals), did this repeatedly for awhile then just started to slow down more an more, no matter how much throttle (almost like running out of gas, but it was about 1/4 indicated) . Well I was getting ready to turn back, shifted down to 1st, then back up to 5. problem went away. First thought it was slipping clutch, but the rpms went down as well. Must have been fuel flow? and/or carbs? I should probably replace the oil and fuel filters.

[Sandy]

Fuel problem could be a bad vacuum diaphram in the gas tap or a leaky or collapsing vacuum hose.

[Anonymous]

Adjusted clutch cable, made a difference. Actually able to get it into neutral and gear now.

Tightened chain, much improvement there.

Bike is much more enjoyable to ride now.

Is it common for these styles of tanks to have fuel on one side of it while starving the other side, allowing it to feel like its running out of fuel?

What tool is needed to tighten the 4 indented collar just below the triple tree, assuming that this part is adjustable?

Thanks,
John

[Anonymous]

1. Looks like the fuel valve (petcock?) is missing the switch/adjuster.

I believe that is stock for many GSs. I don't know why they would make it so difficult. You also suggest that you have fuel in the oil. If so, you really ought to change the petcock. There is an aftermarket part by Pingel that most people swear by. I need to get one too.

Not sure which part you need, but you will need an adapter to put it on a Suzuki. Start here: http://www.pingel.com/

Michael

[Anonymous]

I would really do an oil change as soon as possible. Including getting that cover off and replacing the filter.

[Anonymous]

yeah, just did an oil change today... didnt have a filter yet, will be getting one asap.. are you able to change the filter without draining the oil?

bike road nice, after the oil change.

I had a large piece of black scrap leather, so i redid the seat with it.
worked out well, cept dont know how long it will last (vs the elements).

Also checkd the vin, the steering column and the eng. don't match..oh well. no biggie.

orderd some filters and a pingle petcock also.

[Anonymous]

yeah, just did an oil change today... didnt have a filter yet, will be getting one asap.. are you able to change the filter without draining the oil?

Probably, but be prepared for a very messy situation. I would think that the oil would be collected in the sump. Be sure you do the filter change on the center stand, and preferably tilted back, to keep the oil from draining out of the filter chamber. Remember that you will surely lose some oil, and you have to replace all that is lost.

bike road nice, after the oil change.

!!? Forgot a verb, did we?

I had a large piece of black scrap leather, so i redid the seat with it.
worked out well, cept dont know how long it will last (vs the elements).

Mmmm.. Shoulda gone with pleather. I gotta ask, though, who has a seat-sized piece of leather lying around?

Also checkd the vin, the steering column and the eng. don't match..oh well. no biggie.

If you compared the number stamped near the oil fill plug to the one on the steering column (called a "triple tree" on a bike), don't expect them to match. The one on the tree is a VIN. The one on the engine is a manufacturer serial number. They are completely separate. I'm sure the importer has a list matching the two but don't expect them to be the same. The VIN is legal. The serial number is practical.

orderd some filters and a pingle petcock also.

Good call. I should do that too. It's just a money problem. :?

Hope that helps. Best of luck.

Michael