a few quickies(1150 related)

[bybowtie]

I just got my 85 1150 back after 3 mos(long story Id rather not get into) and it still isnt right(another long one).Anywho in the months I had it at the shop I have reorganized, cleaned, and reorganized my garage several times over and managed to LOSE my factory manual...
So for question one which is the better choice in manual ,Factory or Haynes(used both on previous and found both equally reliable but I thought Id ask the masses).
For number 2 there is a resister coming off my battery that I know is for the battery light, where does it go? mine is now just kinda hanging there.
For three Does anyone have a shot of what the crank end is suppose to look like. I took it in with starter clutch missing, they managed to get one on (correct one after 3 attempts) but it now wont dissengage,they say I may need a new end but I am not real, impressed to say the least and am thinking that they may have miss aligned it or something else may be an issue.. Thanks for those who have resd this long and wandering thread....Keith

[earlfor]

Re: a few quickies(1150 related)

Go with the factory service manual. Its about 20 times better than the Haynes. :-)

The resistor/wire for the battery runs underneath the gas tank. You should find the mating plug there. Or, if youre talking about the battery end, unless you have the special battery with the connector built into it, you cannot connect/hook up the battery light wire. I dont bother with it anyway. (One of my first purchases when I got my 1150 was a sealed, maintenance free battery)

On your starter clutch.........if you did not have a clutch and the shop installed one, its likely there wasnt any spacer in place either. Its probable the shop didnt know there is supposed to be a spacer. It probably doesnt disengage because it is installed incorrectly. :-)
You will need the special removal tool to remove it if you intend on checking it yourself.

Earl

I just got my 85 1150 back after 3 mos(long story Id rather not get into) and it still isnt right(another long one).Anywho in the months I had it at the shop I have reorganized, cleaned, and reorganized my garage several times over and managed to LOSE my factory manual...
So for question one which is the better choice in manual ,Factory or Haynes(used both on previous and found both equally reliable but I thought Id ask the masses).
For number 2 there is a resister coming off my battery that I know is for the battery light, where does it go? mine is now just kinda hanging there.
For three Does anyone have a shot of what the crank end is suppose to look like. I took it in with starter clutch missing, they managed to get one on (correct one after 3 attempts) but it now wont dissengage,they say I may need a new end but I am not real, impressed to say the least and am thinking that they may have miss aligned it or something else may be an issue.. Thanks for those who have resd this long and wandering thread....Keith

[bybowtie]

Earl I appreciate that. The shop I went ot was supposedly well experienced but after this malay i seriously doubt it .. I ended up going to Richie(member of this board) to get he parts..

Can you do me a favor me lacking the manual can you possible shoot me a pick of what I need or what it is suppose to look like? the parts have been removed already (they were afraid that moving the bike might damage the starter with the "ill fitting" parts)

To clarify what they did was put the parts on tell me I was missing the spacers(got ahold of richie he sent another to them) then they said that the spacers werent needed for my model year(?) they put it on got the bike started adnthe clutch wouldnt disengage from the starter thus causing th starter to spin backwards(?). I dont know the fact is I got impatient and wanted to get tit running found this shop through visits to it taling to folks etc. I should have likely worked on it myself. would have saved me a fortune. I think had the shop been closer( hour from me) I could have made a trip or to to see the progress(which when I called was little to non, always something needed)..
Ok rant over.. Thanks again Earl....

[earlfor]

My scanner bit the dust some time ago, so i cant scan a pic from my manual.
I did go to bike bandit and this is the page for the starter clutch.

http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/oem_schematic_view.asp?mscssid=NXAWPAUQ7LHL8PGDNTA11B2N20K57TE9&schem_dept_id=992117&section_dept_id=1&section_dept_name=OEM+Parts&dept_type_id=2&model_dept_year=1985&model_dept_mfr=Suzuki&model_dept_id=987231&model_dept_name=GS1150EF

For some reason, my computer will not download the diagram, but it will download the text parts listing. (its always something :-) ) So, I believe the part is number 10 in the list.....shim.

Earl

[quote="bybowtie"]

Can you do me a favor me lacking the manual can you possible shoot me a pick of what I need or what it is suppose to look like? the parts have been removed already (they were afraid that moving the bike might damage the starter with the "ill fitting" parts)

[bybowtie]

how thick is that shim? How about the starter washer?
cantget the dern thing to load...go figure thaks for the help.. I will try the site later

[earlfor]

I didnt measure the shim thickness when I had my starter clutch apart to replace the sheared mounting screws, but its about 1 or 2 mm.
The starter clutch is just a housing, three pins with springs, three mounting bolts and a shim/spacer. Its a very simple mechanism and pin and spring rebuild kits are available online. (would have to try and find the url again though) I think shims are available from the same people as the spring and pin kits. (about $40)

If memory serves me correctly Lynn posted the site info last year.

Earl

how thick is that shim? How about the starter washer?
cantget the dern thing to load...go figure thaks for the help.. I will try the site later

[bybowtie]

so in order from nut to the block it goes
Nut- clutch-shim-flywheel-thats it?
theres also a washer that looks to be 3/8 1/2 in fits starter gear perfectly how does that go? Thanks again a great deal!

[earlfor]

The sequence from nut to block is: nut, stator rotor, starter clutch, shim.
The torque for the three small bolts that hold the starter clutch should be between 16 and 20 ft lbs.

Its been awhile since I did min, and I dont have any pictures of the assembly sequesnce, so I'm on memory on this. On the starter clutch, the shim will only fit on one side of it (the open side) The clutch must be mounted such that the three mounting bolts for it are flush with the surface of the clutch. (otherwise, they would wedge causing the clutch to be inoperative.) The shaft is tapered, so the clutch will only fit oriented in one direction also. My memory may be faulty as to the clutch itself, but it can only be assembled one way and it will only fit onto the shaft one way.



The small washer that fits the starter gear goes between the gear and the crankcase. It is a spacer.

Earl

so in order from nut to the block it goes
Nut- clutch-shim-flywheel-thats it?
theres also a washer that looks to be 3/8 1/2 in fits starter gear perfectly how does that go? Thanks again a gr
eat deal!