Starter clutch - maybe?

[Ronan]

Folks,

(1982 GS1100 G)

I'm trying to head-off any potential pit-falls when I go to open my GS up in a couple of days. A few weeks ago, she just stopped working on the starter motor. One minute it was fine, a couple of miles later, no joy.

When you press the starter button, the motor spins good and fast. But there is no sound from the engine if you know what I mean. The starter motor is just spinning free, almost sounding like a drill with nothing attached.

I guess its the starter clutch, but the manual is feint on details in this area. So I was just wondering if anyone could suggest things to look out for or beware of. Of course it may not be the starter clutch, I'm going to start by just taking the side casing off and having a look around. But what else could it be?

I really appreciate any suggestions / advice!!

Thanks,

Ronan

[Joe Nardy]

***Edited...........thanks bybowtie!***

It is quite likely a starter clutch or rotor problem. I used to have the same problem from time to time on my '83 1100E. The rotor nut would come loose and the rotor/starter clutch assembly would spin on the tapered shaft. After several times the shaft and or rotor assembly wore to the point that it would not tighten and the rotor would spin freely. I used some feeler guage stock to wrap around the shaft, tightened it down and haven't had any further trouble. That was probably 15 years ago.

Joe

[bybowtie]

Joe its the rotor assy/starterclutch.. The stator doesnt move,its attached to the cover.
I am having similar issues w/my 1150 got it under control at the moment. Take the side cover off and you'll notice it almost easily. Simple test is to remove the idler gear off and reach behind the assy. youll see a big gear on the back it should spin one direction and not the other If it binds on both then your springs are jammed on the clutch. If it free wheels on both either your rotor nut has backed off and loosend the assy or you have worn the bearings on the clutch itself..
As I (and the wife) have learned its really a simple assy just a little thought to diagnose...good luck and keep us posted

[Joe Nardy]

I knew that............

[Ronan]

Thanks for the replies guys, they were really helpful.

I took the casing off this afternoon and made a go for it. The gear at the back seems to be spinning pretty free in both directions alright.

So I guess the question now is where to go for new springs, rollers and bearings. I ask my local Suzuki rip-off artist about a new starter clutch, and they spoke of figures over Euro 250! It seems a bit much to me for whats involved.

- Ronan

[Joe Nardy]

Ronan,

You can try http://www.bikebandit.com or perhaps a salvage yard. Also, someone here may have a spare they can sell you. I would help if I could but I have no spare.

Joe

[Ronan]

Thanks Joe, I'll check out the site. Since my last post, I was chatting to a mate with a lot of old Katana parts. Maybe I'll get lucky and it will be the same. Worst case I could probably get it fabricated. The challenge right now is to get the rotor off. I got the main nut off, but not having what the manual calls a "rotor removal tool" :? I'll have to wait and try to blag one from the local bike shop. LOL.

- Ronan

[bybowtie]

those parts are still in stock at your local dealer.. Bike bandit will give you the parts number and prices are dern near the same.

[bybowtie]

as for a rotor removing tool you ca get tehm at Suzuki as well as most other cycle shops. I used a rubber ring(actually a "grip wrench" from tv like 10$ for 2 at wally world) and a C-clamp.. it held great!!!! Also you cn take a 1x8 drill the diameter of the rotor out and slide it on mark the 2 dimples in the rotor. Drill those out and slide some 1/4 in rod in them(might need smaller) set them with nuts and youll be good to go.....

[earlfor]

With those symptoms, I am reasonably sure you will find the problem to be that the three machine screws that mount the starter clutch to the back of the rotor have been broken off. They will break off long before the pins in the clutch mechanism will break. You will find the end of the three bolts broken off flush with the rear of the rotor. The ends will also be locktited in place.
Put the rotor on a drill press and drill a 1/16" hole through the center of each of the three bolts. Then put a DULL 3/16" bit in the drill press and using heavy pressure pretend you are drilling out the bolts. The dull bit will not cut, but it will create enough friction to heat up the broken bolt ends enough to release the locktite holding them and then there will be enough friction that the bit will turn the remaining bolt shell all the way through and it will fall out. This will leave you with perfect threads still in the rotor.
Take one of the broken bolts to the local hardware store to get it matched up. (put one of the broken bolt ends onto the broken bolt so you can measure the length you will need. They must fit flush) Should cost you about $2 total. :-)

Its worth the money to buy a rotor removal too. (about $25) The first time you slip and destroy a $200 rotor, you will wish you had. :-)

Earl


[quote="ronan"]Thanks for the replies guys, they were really helpful.

I took the casing off this afternoon and made a go for it. The gear at the back seems to be spinning pretty free in both directions alright.

[Ronan]

You're quite right - the 3 bolts had broken. So I replaced them with hardened bolts. There must have been some serious forces at work to break all three in the first place! Quite strange though, the starter now seems quite sluggish since I put it back together. It used to spin and turn over very fast, now it seems almost tired. I wonder coul dI have over tightened something?

Anyway, thanks for all the help guys. No more pushing me GS! )

- Ronan