Float Bowls Keep Overflowing Despite Overhaul & New Part

[Anonymous]

Hi

I have a problem with the VM26 slide carbs on my GS850. I just rebuilt the carbs using keyster carb kits. I spent a lot of time getting the float heights correct at 24mm. With the carbs back on the bike I got intermittent leaks from the float bowl overflows. I could stop the leaks by tapping the float bowls with a screwdriver.

I assumed I wasted my money on the keyster kits and bought genuine Suzuki float needles and seats for more money than I care to mention. It does exactly the same thing!

The carbs were scrupulously clean after the rebuild and I have a fuel filter fitted. I spent a lot of time getting the float heights perfect. The bike runs and idles perfectly after the rebuild. Any ideas how to stop these leaks? I should point out I've been using a remote fuel tank but it is at the same height as the regular tank would be.

Thanks

Mark

[Anonymous]

I had similar troubles with my carbs. I put on aftermarket float valves, one of the floor still leaked. Arggg...I bought 4 new Suzuki valves and new floats. The same one STILL leaked.

Fortunately it was one of the outer carbs, so I could pull the bowl without taking the carbs off. I took the float off, unscrewed the valve, found a little more trash in there. Must've been in the fuel line...I put it back together, it's been fine since.

One thing I figured out: with the float bowl off and the float removed, I could manually push up on the float needle with my finger and then turned on the petcock. Gas didn't come out, so this ruled out any other leakages.

I guess my advice would be to just keep removing the float valves and cleaning them.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

If the valve seats are clean and tapping the bowl "fixes" the leaking, then it has to be either a sticking float, uneven float, or the tab on the float has a burr where the float tab contacts the valves spring.
Clean out the holes for the float pin in the float towers. Run a small twist of steel wool or sandpaper into the holes and LIGHTLY ream the holes out.
Sometimes reversing the float pin installation helps. If the pin rotates with the float, the floats rarely can stick. Also make sure the tubing of the float (where the float pin is inserted) is clean and smooth inside.
Before you set the float height, did you check that both sides of the float are equal? They are commonly tweaked and uneven.
The shiny, pitted wear mark on the float tab can sometimes cause a sealing problem. Take a piece of emery cloth and lightly rub the pit in case there is some dull burring around the pits edge.

[Mr. Jiggles]

Check to make sure that the bowl covers aren't causing the floats to bind.

Jeff

[Anonymous]

If the valve seats are clean and tapping the bowl "fixes" the leaking, then it has to be either a sticking float, uneven float, or the tab on the float has a burr where the float tab contacts the valves spring.
Clean out the holes for the float pin in the float towers. Run a small twist of steel wool or sandpaper into the holes and LIGHTLY ream the holes out.
Sometimes reversing the float pin installation helps. If the pin rotates with the float, the floats rarely can stick. Also make sure the tubing of the float (where the float pin is inserted) is clean and smooth inside.
Before you set the float height, did you check that both sides of the float are equal? They are commonly tweaked and uneven.
The shiny, pitted wear mark on the float tab can sometimes cause a sealing problem. Take a piece of emery cloth and lightly rub the pit in case there is some dull burring around the pits edge.

Thanks Keith I'll give that a try.