Front Brakes Repairs In Jeopardy

[Anonymous]

Hi there, I just purchased a 1980 Suzuki GS850GL. I had my left front brake dragging on me so I drained the system, tore the front caliper apart, and also took apart the master cyclinder on the handlebars. I disconnected the brake switch. Now trying to put it together again I'm having difficulties and don't want to pay the $55 per hr of a repair shop for some minor work. I don't remember losing any parts and kept everything together and cleaned it before putting it back. My problems are, and please help me if you know what I'm talking about,

1) The brake switch isn't working for the handgrip. There was only a spring and a U-shapped copper clip that came from the handle. I see how the switch activates and according to the manual it only has these two parts, but I'm not sure how they go back in. Does someone know what I'm talking about. Is there another piece that fell out that I didn't catch or see?

2) Trying to bleed the front brakes, I can not get the hand grip to release, the piston the hand grip pushes in under the master cylinder is pushed in and will not spring out. How do I fix this and get the system back and working?

I cleaned the entire system with brake cleaner to remove build-up. Could there be a clog in the line causing a lock? Please help there are only a few weeks left of riding season.

[Anonymous]

did you put a little brake fluid in the master cylinder when putting it all back together? coat everything with brake fluid!

[Anonymous]

I put it back together and put brake fluid in the master cylinder before pulling the handle back. Is there any type of return spring for the hand grip? Whats the best way to bleed the brake system.

[Anonymous]

no i ment did you coat the cup and plunger inside the cylinder?

[Anonymous]

Actually, no I didn't, but I'll be taking the master cylinder apart again and i'll coat the inside and the o-ring to make sure. I figured out that I'm missing a small plastic part on the switch for the brakelight, it must have fallen out and I didn't catch it. I am picking up the spare now for the time being. I'm still curious as to why the small piston on the hand grip won't retract after pushed in? Do you think it could possibly be obstructed or vapor locked?

[Anonymous]

I've posted a picture of the master cylinder in the GS garage.
Click this link:

http://groups.msn.com/SuzukiGSGarage/jojosgssandmore.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=335

You'll see there is a spring, pushing the lever back. If it doesn't work properly, perhaps you should disassemble the master cylinder again, clean it and be sure to put some brake fluid on the moving parts, before putting them back together.

Bleeding the brakes can be a time consuming operation:

There are several methods: I prefer opening the drain screws on the brakes, and filling the reservoir with brake fluid, letting gravity do the work. When the brake fluid starts to come out the drain screws, I close them and start pumping with the brake lever, until I feel some pressure.

Open one of the drain screws, but keep the brake handle squeezed. Close the drain screw, and release the handle.
Repeat the same procedure, until there's no more air coming out of the system. Keep the reservoir filled at all times, otherwise you might be pumping more air into the system!

The same goes for the other brake.
Tip: put a transparant hose on the drain screws, and let it hang in a glass jar. This way you can see if there are any air bubbles in the fluid.

You might have to check the lines for air the next day or so, repeating the procedure.

As for the brake switch: I've posted a picture of that too. Just click the link:

http://groups.msn.com/SuzukiGSGarage/jojosgssandmore.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=336

As far as I can see, the little copper U-shaped part goes in with the closed side down. Perhaps anyone else knows for sure?

Hope this is of any help.

[Anonymous]

That brake light switch is a pain... I'm just getting an aftermarket hydraulic brakelight switch from Dennis Kirk because I lost that little plastic piece... and then the pring... and then the U shaped deal... and then the board...

[Anonymous]

yeah you could have some rust buildup or it may even be a little warped, i`d run some really fine grit sand paper in there then clean it out well, i usaully dip me finger in the brake fluid get all the in the bore then coat the rubber cup

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the info guys, being new to the whole motorcycle maintenance I didn't expect to be working on it the day after I got it. I figured out the brake switch. I had lost the little plastic piece #11 from Jojo's second pic. I found it in the grass but had already ordered the new line and inner parts. Now I have extras incase the switch or the clutch switch goes.

As for the brakes. I tore the master cylinder off again and lubed what I could with brake fluid and opened both bleeders until no more fluid was coming out. I closed them overnight to keep moisture out, but I'm letting the force of gravity help fill the system. I give the handle a squeeze every now and then to work some more fluid in. I'm picking up some clear plastic tubing during lunch and hooking it to the bleeders to let it drain a little better while I'm not there.

Does anyone know the size of the bolts used for the license plate? I forgot to bring the stripped one to work today and I'll pick one up while I'm out.

Thanks again for your help guys, I've found this site very useful since I joined. Hopefully I can return the favors someday.

Dave

[TheNose]

jojo, how'd you get your bike so shiney? It looks great. I keep working on shining my crome and aluminum, but it's no where near yours. Good job! Great looking bike.

I also lost the little metal contact in my brake switch. I made one out of a small piece of copper. So far no problems.

Terry

[Anonymous]

Dave,

6 mm bolts with a washer will do.

Terry,

The engine is painted with heat resistant aluminum paint. The engine covers are coated with two layers of professional aluminum primer, two layers of the heat resistant paint and two layers of two components clear coat (all spray cans).
The chrome work will get shiny again, with break fluid (be careful not to get it on any painted parts!!! Protect your eyes and wear gloves!) or WD-40. Apply it on the chrome parts (in case of brake fluid, use a paint brush), let it sit for a couple of hours and use a cloth dipped in the same fluid to wipe the rust and dirt off. Dry it with a clean cloth.
I finished it with a cheap silver polish from a local supermarket. Great results!

[silverhorse47]

The brake light switch has a little black piece of plastic with a square prong on one end...it goes into the notch on the end of the brake lever handle. The other end of the little black piece is a square recess with a little round tab inside and two slots in two sides. The spring goes over the little round tab, then the copper U-shaped piece of metal goes open end down over the spring. The flat end of the U rides on the metal strips in the switch cover that is soldered to the supply wires.

Notice that the copper U has two little divots in the ears...these go into the slots in the black plastic recess...and hold it from falling onto the ground while you install this little piece of nightmareish engineering.

Put a little tiny dab of gasket goo on the end of the square prong and fit it up into the notch in the brake handle lever...then install the cover plate. Adjust it by sliding the fiber contact holder in or out.

Good luck...look at it carefully and you will see exactly how it works.