My "new" bike now requires a left side case cover

[isaac]

It didn't need one when I left the office at 6pm. Ten minutes later after it shut off on me for third time in that ride alone, I was push starting it (the running alongside method instead of jumping on and then dumping the clutch) for the dozenth time or so in a five minute span, having started this horrific ordeal a few hundred feet back and getting not so much as a sputter from the engine, when it lit up to full power like nothing happened and jumped out of my hands. A moment later it had cracked its left side case cover.

Yeah, this was inevitable with me continuing to ride a messed up bike that has a thing about shutting off for no reason then failing to start again. It was really annoying too, since I had to pick the bike up in a puddle of oil, which wasn't very easy to do seeing as it weighs 550lbs. I got it up and pushed it another 200 feet into a parking lot to survey the damage, which has come out to a broken clutch lever and a chunk missing from the case cover. Not bad for one second's work.

I really wish the guy who sold me the bike had been more honest about this thing's plethora of problemas.

So the technical question is: Has anybody welded a case cover to replace a chunk of missing steel? Seems like it should work fine. If not: Anybody got a case cover for cheap?

[Jethro]

I ran my 81 1100 for about 4 years with JB Weld plugging the stator cover up! Take is off the bike, clean it off really well, and fill 'er up with goop!

[isaac]

Thanks for the help, Jethro. That's something I've relied on in the past but wasn't sure would work here.

The exposed hole in total square area seems about marble sized. I've worked with both JB weld and Qwiksteel, and found the Qwiksteel was easier to work with since it's like play-doh instead of almost liquid like JB weld, which helps it cover larger gaps. How did you get the JB weld to work on yours? How big was the hole you were covering up? Thanks for the help.

[daveo]

Another thought, costs a little more, is to use Dura-Fix, it's an AL. alloy that melts below the temp of your casting. It comes in rods and can be used with propane or Mapp gas. I've used it extensively, even welding cracked heads, and am happy with it. You must follow the directions, especially the part about using a STAINLESS STEEL wire brush to prep the area to be bonded with. The repair is machineable, and can be polished, could look as good as new, literally....but it's around $35 a pound....

http://durafix.com/

[focus frenzy]

Re: My "new" bike now requires a left side case co

So the technical question is: Has anybody welded a case cover to replace a chunk of missing steel? Seems like it should work fine. If not: Anybody got a case cover for cheap?

the side cover will be cast aluminum, not steel.

[Jethro]

How did you get the JB weld to work on yours? How big was the hole you were covering up? Thanks for the help.

Marble sized, huh? Mine was smaller. About corn kernal sized. I simply coated the inside really well, let it dry for a day, then coated the outside really well. Then it leaked a little (not much, but I have a few left boots that are well oiled), so I took it off again, sanded it smooth, and recoated both sides again. After that it didn't leak at all- until I dropped the damn bike again. After that I found a new, used cover. Hopefully I can stop dropping the machine. 8O

[bgk]

Can't you just go to a local boneyard and buy a stator cover and slap it on?

[Evil Hobbit]

I used JB Weld on a 2 inch crack on the stator cover and it worked great rode it for 3000 miles with it patched. I finally got a new cover and tossed the cracked one, but it i'm sure it woulod have held for another 2000 miles.
By the way it took me that long to find a good cover. It appears that the one I had on it was from a 1983 GS1100 and I have a 1980. I guess they are interchangable.

[KennyJ]

If you are using JB weld on a hole, use masking tape as a backing. If it is on an inclined surface you can't lay flat, lay tape on the inside, flow your JB weld, then tape the outside. You can form it under the tape with your fingers manipulating the tape.

Biggest one I repaired in anything was about 3/4 inch diameter.

Kenny

[isaac]

Thanks a bunch for the tips and tricks.

Well I Quiksteeled it tonight using tape as a backer. We'll see how it holds tomorrow. I sanded the metal around the hole to improve adherence. If this doesn't work, I'm buying a pound of aluminum welding stuff.

[sidd]

Been there! I got mine welded shut for $40 at a local shop. About 2 months later, I ended up getting a new one in a bunch of parts off of ebay! Good luck with yours.

[isaac]

Well the fix is in, and it looks like my bike is coming out on top. I now have a Quiksteel patch on the bottom of my case cover and it seems to be holding the oil back. I pulled the tank, yanked the petcock and cleaned the screens (which weren't very dirty) then backflushed the fuel filter to dislarge the larger pieces of rust in it.

I took it back out on the road, and it started and ran fine. It didn't even die on me this time, though I gave it plenty of part throttle warm up time. It's running just as well as before, but still has that 7,500 hard limiter going on. I'll have to figure that out. While I had everything off I inspected all the manifold to carb boots, and they don't look cracked. The airbox is looking airtight too.

Again, thanks a lot for all the help.