Drive chains revisited

[KEITH KRAUSE]

The rag method works, I've tried it, but it's slow and not complete enough.
I start off with a rag, but I still place the chain in a pan with a very shallow amount of kerosene. I mean very shallow. I just dab away at the chain trying to avoid much dripping onto the o-rings. I'm sure a little still gets past the o-rings, but I do my best. I first get some kerosene on it and let it sit about 15 minutes. When I come back, the medium course bristle brush I use takes it right off. The right brush has a lot to do with it too.
I don't have any experience with the x-ring chains. But I'm still in the dark ages, running a 630 o-ring chain. After I wear it out, and another new one I have waiting, I plan to do the 530 conversion.
At that time, I figure all of you guys will have enough experience to help me decide if I want one of the x-ring chains or not. Better you guys be the guinea pigs!

[Guest]

Now I'm slightly confused. My GS450 is my first bike so I've be relying on the advise of others. My GS has a standard, non-O-ring chain. I asked the guy at the Suzuiki dealer in my area about what to lube the chain with and he said just plain old WD-40. This sounded a little weird but I thought he should know what he was talking about. (Unless he just wants me to add a new chain to the long list of parts I've already bought from him?!?!) So now I ask, you guys have been right on everything else, what is the proper way to clean, lube, and maintain a chain. What should I clean and lube it with and how often? My GS thanks you for keeping me from hurting it through my own lack of knowledge.

[Joe Nardy]

WD-40 is great for cleaning since it is a kerosene-based solvent. It does leave a lubricating film but I think it is much too thin for a chain lubricant. The idea behind most chain lubes is that they contain a heavy lubricant thinned out by a solvent. When you spray the lube on the chain the solvent helps carry the thicker lube into the important places. Then the solvent evaporates leaving a thick lube. An important thing to remember is that a chain needs lubrication most INSIDE the rollers where you can't see it. An o-ring chain uses the o-rings to keep the original lube inside. A non o-ring chain has no seals to keep the lube in place and needs more attention. There are many theories on how to lube a chain but a good method is to ride for a while to warm it up, wipe it clean with a rag and solvent (WD-40 or kerosene), then lube it with a premium chain lube. Be sure to spray the chain lube between the plates and between the plates and rollers. The warmth of the chain will help the chain lube find its way into the places where it is needed. When the solvent evaporates you are left with a thick lube inside the rollers where it is most needed. Once it has cooled down you can wipe it clean again with the solvent and rag to remove the chain lube left on the outside of the chain. You'll now have a clean chain that is lubed inside where it counts.

Hope that helps,
Joe

[earlfor]

WD40 has minimal lubricating qualities. It is intended as a water barrier/displacement compound and consequently is useful for inhibiting rust.

On an "O" ring chain, the sideplates are separated by the "O" ring, so there is no heat build up/friction from sideplates rubbing together. "O" ring chains are sealed with lube on the pins at the factory. The seal is the"O" ring, so you cannot lube the internal pins anyhow. WD40 is sufficient on an "O" ring chain because all that is needed is something to keep the rubber "O" rings from drying out and something that will keep the sideplates from rusting.

On a non "O" ring chain, you need a lubricant between the sideplates to reduce friction and you need rust protection. WD40 is better than nothing in this application as it will keep the chain from rusting. But, as a lubricant, it is not much improvement over nothing. For that, you need chain lube, oil, or gear oil.

Earl

Now I'm slightly confused. My GS450 is my first bike so I've be relying on the advise of others. My GS has a standard, non-O-ring chain. I asked the guy at the Suzuiki dealer in my area about what to lube the chain with and he said just plain old WD-40. This sounded a little weird but I thought he should know what he was talking about. (Unless he just wants me to add a new chain to the long list of parts I've already bought from him?!?!) So now I ask, you guys have been right on everything else, what is the proper way to clean, lube, and maintain a chain. What should I clean and lube it with and how often? My GS thanks you for keeping me from hurting it through my own lack of knowledge.

[Anonymous]

Hey earl,
I didn't want to start a new topic so I figured I would ask ya here.
My shifter linkage pins are loose and since there is no way of tightning
them up that i'm aware of, what do ya do
Here is one option I stumbled across..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34284&item=4516396096&rd=1

I really like the price.
Maybe new would be the more sensible option..

[earlfor]

Do you mean the ball joints are worn out, or do you mean the knurled splines are worn down? If it is the splines that are worn, remove the linkage. get an aluminum soda can and cut a strip about 3/4" wide and long enough to wrap the shift shaft once. You now have an insert "shim, and it will take out the slack between the shaft and the linkage. Tighten the pinch bolt as normal and it will pull down, compressing the soft aluminum. No more wobble. :-) :-) You may need to widen the pinch bolt gap with a screwdriver blade slightly to enlarge the opening enough to get the shim in place and around the shaft.

Earl

Hey earl,
I didn't want to start a new topic so I figured I would ask ya here.
My shifter linkage pins are loose and since there is no way of tightning
them up that i'm aware of, what do ya do
Here is one option I stumbled across..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34284&item=4516396096&rd=1

I really like the price.
Maybe new would be the more sensible option..

[AOD]

Generic silicone lube is good for a non-oring chain and I haven't noticed any issues with my o-ring chain I have now (DID). If you read your Suzuki owners manual it says to use 10W30 oil on the original chains.

Is there a trick to check the o-ring quality, or just visually inspect them?

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Is there a trick to check the o-ring quality, or just visually inspect them?

I look at mine and give them a poke. It's east to tell if they're becoming hard/brittle. I use Maxima Chain Wax. It's great for the entire chain but silicone is great for rubber parts. I regularly go over every rubber part I can reach on my bike with silicone. Spraying is messy, so I get the hard to reach parts by spraying the silicone in a paint can top and I dip a q-tip into it. I've seen silicone extend the life of tired fork seals too.
I also spray all the rubber parts whenever I get under my truck or car. I haven't had a cv boot or any other rubber part crack or fail in over 10 years of doing this.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Now I'm slightly confused. My GS450 is my first bike so I've be relying on the advise of others. My GS has a standard, non-O-ring chain. I asked the guy at the Suzuiki dealer in my area about what to lube the chain with and he said just plain old WD-40. This sounded a little weird but I thought he should know what he was talking about. (Unless he just wants me to add a new chain to the long list of parts I've already bought from him?!?!) So now I ask, you guys have been right on everything else, what is the proper way to clean, lube, and maintain a chain. What should I clean and lube it with and how often? My GS thanks you for keeping me from hurting it through my own lack of knowledge.

There's been some good info in this topic already.
If you want a good general procedure, read my topic:"Proper way to clean and lube your chain" in the Tips and Tricks section. It's about the second page now.
It's good, basic info. There are of course other ways to clean and lube your chain. Chain cleaners...chain oilers...

[Anonymous]

My Tsubaki chain is very old--almost 15 years--but only has about 10,000 miles on it or less . Though there are no tight spots, I noticed a couple of o-rings have started to deteriorate. The chain hasn't stretched, and sprockets have virtually no wear on them. No rust on the chain either, I store the bike indoors and seldom ride in the rain anymore.

Change the chain, or wait until more wear is visible?

[KEITH KRAUSE]

My Tsubaki chain is very old--almost 15 years--but only has about 10,000 miles on it or less . Though there are no tight spots, I noticed a couple of o-rings have started to deteriorate. The chain hasn't stretched, and sprockets have virtually no wear on them. No rust on the chain either, I store the bike indoors and seldom ride in the rain anymore.

Change the chain, or wait until more wear is visible?

I would say the chain has some more miles on it still. It depends on what you think about spending the money.
The only thing you mentioned negative was the o-rings getting old. They keep in the lube. So you'll just have to add lube more often, if you lube it correctly. Again, is saving the money worth the extra attention you have to pay?
When a chain reaches its life span, you know it. You'll find it stretching almost faster than you can adjust it.

[Anonymous]

For what it's worth, I've seen some guys who love to brake by downshifting hard, almost locking up the rear wheel while they downshift.

I can't imagine a harder way to abuse a chain, or the rest of the drive train, for that matter. I'd much rather buy a new set of front brake pads than replace drive train components.

[RacingJake]

I was thinking when my chain wear's out I'm just going to remove it, flip it over on the other side and re-install it. Should last just as much as the first time.......Riiggghhhhtttttt.

[ToddB3]

You guys were asking about X-ring chains, I've had an RK 525 X-ring on my 900RR for almost 2 years now, I've probably put about 7,000 miles on the bike since and only had to adjust the slack once and I ride the bike pretty hard sometimes. I first tried an Xring chain on an old Honda NT650 and put about 12,000 miles of short runs and track days lubing it with a tractor chain lube, never a stiff link and very few chain adjustments. I'm looking for a good deal on an X-ring for the GS now.

[first timer]

do a search on ebay, i found d.i.d 530 hi performance o-ring chain for 70 bucks from a ebay retailer, i think i saw some good x rings for cheap too.

http://search.stores.ebay.com/search/search.dll?query=x+ring&srchdesc=y&sid=132034686&store=Power+Sports+Accessory+Warehouse&colorid=-1&fp=0&st=1

-ryan