1980 GSX750E Race Project

[Anonymous]

G'day,

I have a stock GSX750E which I intend to put on the track and and go historic racing. I don't have much cash (that's why I'm racing a 25yo bike) and I need some good advice on performance mods I can make without spending thousands of dollars.

I already have the suspension halfway to sorted out with uprated fork springs etc and a new set of Ikon shocks for the rear.

What I need is some power, so I seek advice on the following :

Motor - Cams / valves etc (would katana cams fit ?), raising compression ?
Pistons... am I getting into big money here ?

Carbs ? needles / jet kits (brands ? setting / sizes ? )? throw away the airbox and use pods ?
I intend to keep the stock 32mm mikuni carbs for the now.

Also, good tyres for the standard rims ?

Race extras like bars, rear sets etc....

My budget is very low to start with, so I can only concern myself with the essentials first.

Actually I can't afford a budget, so I'll just work it out as I go along....

Any tech info, aswell as products, services and and where I can get them would be great.
I am in Sydney Australia

Cheers,
Geoff.

[Anonymous]

vintage racing

Boy I don't even know where to begin or even if I should, but here goes. First racing of any kind on the cheap is kind of like fighting world war three on the cheap, its likely to result in a world of trouble. Second racing a 25 year old bike without completely going through it is likely to have similiar consequences. If I were you I would forget about power for now and concentrate on handling because dollar for dollar your money will be better spent on handling than anywhere else and that goes double for the bike you have chosen. First do the rules allow 17 inch rims? If so start here. Second, will the rules allow the addition of GSXR style four piston calipers? You need decent brakes for roadracing and the ones on your bike are terrible and if you doubt what I am saying, ten laps on a roadrace course will change your mind. Third, will the rules allow the addition of a 88-89 gsxr front end, complete with wheel and brakes? If so start hunting one up quick. Fourth, these bikes have terrible ground clearance so you need to make major ride height increases in the back. You should be able to accomplish this with your existing shocks if you play with mounting points. No comercially available exhaust is suitable for racing and will drag everwhere in right handers. You will need to cut the stock footpeg mounts off and mount late model gsxr style rear sets. This will allow any 4-1 colector to be used with a custom midpipe. This set up will do wonders for your clearance. The alternator gives probs on these bikes for roadracing due to clearance. My advice is to run a total loss system and have someone cut up the alternator cover and bevel the alternator area for better clearance. I think you can do the things I suggested for three or four hundred bucks if you shop carefully. If the bike has decent traction, decent brakes, and decent ground clearance, you should be able to have fun and practice your skills without too much chance of hurting yourself. Start slow and creep up on the bike and your limits. Rome was not built in a day. If you try to set the world on fire in the first few weeks, your entire roadracing carear is likely to last no more than a few weeks. I roadraced a Suzuki gs1000 in 78. These bikes were far from racers no matter what the magazines used to say. My bike took tons of work and cubic money to get around a race track with something approaching grace. You do not need tons of horsepower, especially as a beginer. Believe me, you will get beat by more experienced guys on half the amount of horsepower that you have, so worry about that last. Concentrate on weight reduction, ground clearance, braking, and handling. If you ask specific questions, one or two at a time, I'll try to help you get pointed in the right direction, but you will have to give me a clue what is legal. Stock salvage yard late model brakes, will equal or better the performance of period legal magnesieum lockheed stuff at a fraction of the price, but they may not be legal. Same for 17 inch rims and radial tires. Steve

[robinjo]

Interesting topic this. *bookmarks*

[Anonymous]

wt reduction

Something I mentioned but did not elaborate on was weight reduction. While weight reduction taken to extremes is one of the most expensive things you can do on a motorcycle( carbon fiber wheels, brakes, and body parts, titanium fasteners, magnesium calipers and swing arms, bla bla bla) you should be able to strip off close to a hundred pounds on your bike with relative ease. The stock exhaust weighs a ton, no need for side or center stands for racing, ditto for chain guard. Heavy steel fenders can be removed or replaced with something lighter. All ighting can go in a box along with the starter and alternator, in fact yopu can signifigantly streamline the wiring harness if you take the time. With only the ignition to fire, you should be able to run a smaller battery and a total loss system for sprint racing. Just removing the alternator, will make your bike accelerate signifigantly faster. The stock wheels, tires and brakes, weigh a lot more than many alternatives that are readily available in your nearest salvage yard. ( For example when 1982 cb750 f mags, tires and brakes are replaced with those from a cbr600 f2 you lose close to thirty pounds)

[HiSPL]

Here's a good source of info for you... Team ProWeigh from New Zealand.

http://www.oldskoolsuzuki.info/patrick/projects/craig/index.htm