1166 Kit Engine Knock

[Boozy Creek Beast]

Jake,
I have been looking through the internet for Dial indicator / Mag. Base sets and I have come across a wide range of prices and was wondering how exact should the dial indicator be. I have sean prices that range from 34.00 to 600.00 that include the dail indicator and base holder. I am not drag racing. I will just be riding.

The Beast

[Billy Ricks]

Jake,
I have been looking through the internet for Dial indicator / Mag. Base sets and I have come across a wide range of prices and was wondering how exact should the dial indicator be. I have sean prices that range from 34.00 to 600.00 that include the dail indicator and base holder. I am not drag racing. I will just be riding.

The Beast

JC Whitney has some cheap decent sets. If you're willing to pay shipping both ways I'll loan you mine. For what that would cost you might be able to come close to buying a set. Here's a link to a free degree wheel.
http://www.tavia.com/free_degree_wheel.html

[Boozy Creek Beast]

Thanks but I have a dial guage and thanks alot for the loan but I will go ahead a purchase one since I have found I set for as low as $19.00. My brother has 2 GSes and I am sure he will want to do the same work. More than likely I will not buy the the cheepest one but spend a few extra bucks and get something that will last. As for the advice in doing the work Biker 66 has a nice layout on his web site. Check it out and let me know what you think.

http://medlem.spray.se/biker661/index.html

The Beast

[RacingJake]

Once you get it back together and the cam notches are facing each other and the cam chain tensioner is installed and adjusted then turn just one rocker arm screws in so that there is no clearance between the valve tip and rocker. All you got to do to check valve to piston clearance is turn the motor over by hand and watch the degree wheel as it gets to 15 degree's before top dead center and the intake lobe is starting to open the intake valve. Get a big flatside screwdriver and wedge it under the cam on a non-machine surface and push down on that rocker arm. Take a filler gauge with 50 thousands thickness or a few added up to 50 thou and see if it will go between the rocker and camshaft. then turn the crank a few degrees and try again until you get to 15 degrees past TDC. You can do the same thing on the exhaust cam too as long as your on the exhaust stroke but use 75thou.

If the intake valve hit the piston or you don't have 50 thous clearance then just loosen up the adjustable intake cam sprocket and and turn the crank CW a hair and retighen the cam sprocket bolts, you have just retarded the intake cam alittle and need to re-check the V/P clearance. The exhaust cam is a little trickier and hopefully you won't have to mess with it.

Below is what I bought from Schnitz's. Works pretty good, as for the degrees wheel I just printed one up off a web site. It may have been from here??

http://secure.mycart.net/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=328287&showprevnext=1

This take alittle time and practice, If you do go make a few dry runs first until it make sence before changing cam timing.

Things to remember,

Always turn the crank CW never CCW

For lobe separation, Take the first reading R1 at 40 thousand valve lift then the second R2 at 40 thousand before the valve closes. R1+R2+180 divided by 2 minus R1 or the lowest of the two numbers. Remember to count backwards from 180 on the degree wheel when trying to figure out the closing event degree.

There are a few web site's that talk about it too.

Hope this make sence cause I'm still confused?

[Billy Ricks]

Maybe this one Jake?

[RacingJake]

yeap that's it!

[RacingJake]

Jake,
I have been looking through the internet for Dial indicator / Mag. Base sets and I have come across a wide range of prices and was wondering how exact should the dial indicator be. I have sean prices that range from 34.00 to 600.00 that include the dail indicator and base holder. I am not drag racing. I will just be riding.

The Beast

You want one that has enough travel and also has the extension kit that screws into the dial indicator. This make it alot easier to find TDC through the sparkplug hole and also when setting the dial indicator on the retainers.

Anything over $75 is too much I think

[Boozy Creek Beast]

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!!!

It turned out to be 2 problems caused by 1 item. The Cam Chain Tentioner. I had replaced the old one with a new Manual one that I got from A.P.E. but did not adjust it correctly. That allowed my cam chain to slip causeing the knock that was exaggerated by the rattleing cam chain. I re-timed the cam and tightened up the cam chain tentioner and now it runs and sound great.

Thanks again for all of the help,
The Beast

[RacingJake]

That's Great \\/

[rosco15]

excellent...............