Stator pages phase C question

[Longimanus]

Hallo,


As I am experiencing some electrical problems again lately on my GS1100G (battery is not charging and has only 9V at idle) I decided to go through the fault finding chart .
In Test phase C my readings of the disconnected RR are around 0.50V for the 2nd & 4th test (which is OK); but in the 1st and 2nd test I get readings on all three wires of +/- 1.2V .

According to the chart the reading should be '1.5V or higher' to continue to the next step. As my reading Is lower it would be an indication of a faulty RR. On the other hand a faulty RR requires a reading of '1.00V or lower' (which isn’t the case either). Obviously my reading is between the ‘1.5V or higher’ and the ‘1.00V or lower’. So; what is the correct interpretation of a 1.2V reading ?

Is my RR faulty or not ?

[Dink]

Iwould replace the stator not the r/r.

Dink

[Einar J Skog]

Hi

Test the stator.

While the rr is disconnected.

[Longimanus]

OK, I did some more testing yesteday evening in accordance with the fault check list. Here's the complete picture :
- the stator is OK (3 times +60V at 5000rpm)
- RR seems OK (all doide tests OK with disconnected RR except 1.2V measured i.s.o. 'higher than 1.5V').

But here comes the weird part :
at idle the voltage across the battery is 11.5 to 12V. When I rev it up to +/- 2.500 - 4.000 rpm the voltage drops to +/- 6V !!

There seems to be a connection to the Head circuit because when I turn the ingnition key the voltage at the battery also drops to +- 6V. With the head fuse removed the battery remains at a +/- 11 V level (which is too low but given the above problems I believe I'm draining the battery while riding). Anyway, with jumper cables it starts perfectly at the first touch and I'm able to take it for a ride without problems.
I was thinking of buying a new battery but I'm afraid she would not last long as long as the 'root' problem (whatever it is) is not fixed. Same goes for the stator & RR :these were replaced 5yr ago with new ones (the RR is an ELECTREX) so if one of them would have to be replaced again there must be another major problem in my electrical system causing all this trouble.

Any suggestions how to handle this ?

DP

[Tervo]

I would suspect, that you have either a partial short circuit somewhere, or some device (coils or ignition box) is drawing too much current, or, which is more propable, you have a loose (ground?)connection somewhere. When you rev the engine, the connection gets looser for the vibration, and you see a voltage drop.

[Longimanus]

I'll check all the connections again and post an update.

thanks for the replies

[Arkaloid]

If you havent already, remove that stator plug and hard wire the 3 wire with solder to the R/R....Even if it looks good it is the root cause of alot of gremlins....

[Longimanus]

I had been thinking of doing that already with all my plugs. I'm definitely going to take the time now to go over all my plugs and solder them as you suggested above.

thanks,

DP

[argonsagas]

Poor connections are a common cause of problems on these bikes: connectors need to be checked and cleaned periodically.

You can get an instant drop in voltage due to a short, usually a drop to zero, but if you see the reduced voltage is sustained at any given amount (6 volts in your case), then there is a connector problem, and it is most likely due to a poor ground.

The easiest way to solve the ground problem that is to add an extra wire (14 Gauge minimum) from the negative terminal on the battery to the frame, plus extend it to the R/R mount bolt so that you get a back-up ground at the R/R