GS1000 Ninja Brake mod w/ pics
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How much different would the mounting bracket need to be to fit these on the slotted dual rotors?
I'd been wondering about giving it a go myself. If I can get some brackets designed I can get our CNC shop to make some up
1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/Comment
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8trackmind
No. Too wide.These the right ones?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...186401702&rd=1
These are the ones I used.
Note there are for threaded holes on each bracket, they will d@mn near bolt on anything with a large enough rotor.
Last edited by Guest; 11-29-2007, 05:53 PM.Comment
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8trackmind
I'll gladly send you the specs if you'll put me down for a set as well. Let me know how much they would be, and I'll send you the $$$.
They won't work on the smaller rotors. The pads are not square pucks. They are shaped like this: )) You know, like a car brake pad. By the time you had them sweeping that small an area, the very tops of the pads would be hanging out over the rotor.Comment
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tone
Sorry if i'm a bit late, i only just caught this thread
Just one question..... did you change the master cylinder to suit the new calipers in the end ?
later model cylinders have a larger dia piston & so move more fluid this coupled with braded lines should give better feel at the lever \\
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8trackmind
I'm still running the stock 14MM single disk master and braded steel lines. I wanted to get my fairing mounted before I started swapping to make sure it would clear. I am using a nice late model Nissin (14MM) on my GS550. It came from a 94ish Katana.Sorry if i'm a bit late, i only just caught this thread
Just one question..... did you change the master cylinder to suit the new calipers in the end ?
later model cylinders have a larger dia piston & so move more fluid this coupled with braded lines should give better feel at the lever \\
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The newer master cylinders may have a longer stroke, but they don't always use a larger piston. Many late model bikes use a 14MM master. The piston size is stamped on the under side of the master cylinder, so finding one should not be a problem.
Stock GS dual disk master uses a 5/8 piston.
If you want to get a better understanding of master cylinder ratio's check this out.
Last edited by Guest; 11-30-2007, 09:34 AM.Comment
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tone
lmao no i dont need a better understanding of brakes or cylinders thanks, i was just finding out if you where aware of the different dia pistons ratio's & strokes of some late model master cylinders :-D:-D:-DComment
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8trackmind
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tone
Not on the latest efe m8, i want to keep that one totally stock apart from braided lines, the other ef is having a complete k4 gsxr front end with 6 pots so thats not much of a mod either
in the past i have fitted a gs1000 with nissin 4 pots & brembo master cylinder, a gsx with a gsxr rear wheel & single 330mm disk & 6pot caliper in the front & lastly a 6pot on a gs500 wheel & disc in slabside forks in a gs750
Also fitted 4.5" , 5.5" & 6" wheels & there atendant brakes, swingarms etc in just about any of the bigger gs's or gsx's you can think of :-DComment
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8trackmind
Not on the latest efe m8, i want to keep that one totally stock apart from braided lines, the other ef is having a complete k4 gsxr front end with 6 pots so thats not much of a mod either
in the past i have fitted a gs1000 with nissin 4 pots & brembo master cylinder, a gsx with a gsxr rear wheel & single 330mm disk & 6pot caliper in the front & lastly a 6pot on a gs500 wheel & disc in slabside forks in a gs750
Also fitted 4.5" , 5.5" & 6" wheels & there atendant brakes, swingarms etc in just about any of the bigger gs's or gsx's you can think of :-D
Well, what are you waiting for, let's see some pics! :-DComment
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Jd Powell
Been watching this thread eagerly. I am a big fan of re-engineering. I do however, have one concern with this setup. Not trying to be a pessimist or a ball-buster, but... It would appear in the photos that when the brakes are activated all of the kinetic energy that they are trying to scrub off would be directly acting as shear forces against the top mounting bolt. My concern being that after a period of use the top bolt could be weakened enough to shear allowing the caliper to pivot up and around the bottom bracket. Yes? No? Definitely wish you the best with your efforts. Just some input from a different angle.Comment
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8trackmind
It's been on there for over a year, and now you tell me!:-D
J/K, I've been watching the bolts...6,000 miles and nothing has moved so far. (keep your fingers crossed)
You know, when I started this thread, I was hoping other folks would maybe expand on the idea, and come up with a better way that is still a bolt on solution...I guess I'm the only one that thinks stock brakes are even more dangerous than my metal fabrication techniques. :shock:Comment
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Jd Powell
You know, when I started this thread, I was hoping other folks would maybe expand on the idea, and come up with a better way that is still a bolt on solution...I guess I'm the only one that thinks stock brakes are even more dangerous than my metal fabrication techniques. :shock:[/quote]
I totaly agree our bikes do lack stopping power. I do applaud the eginuity. I would also like to see more of Ausracer's setup as it appears very stout. That is one sweet race bike. As for the GS's I strongly reccomend drilled or slotted rotors. IMO the best single brake upgrade if you have solid rotors. My GS is an '80 1000G Dual slotted disks up front. So far the only brake component so far has been to replace the m/c with one from a CBR 929. I did the swap due to the angle of my Tommaselli adjustable bars. The angle was to steep for the stock m/c. Currently 90% of my stopping is done with only one finger on the front brake. I only need more than that for emergencies. (I usualy reserve the rear brake for slow speed stops and control issues.) Perty darn good for a 30yr old 560lb beastie. Next will be stainless lines as I can feel the flex in these old rubber lines and it is frightening. Now I suppose I'll be looking into some sort of caliper swap in the future.:-DComment
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Ironriot
Barely read this now. I'm gonna take your idea and run with. I'm somehow gonna figure a way to mount a 6 pot caliper up front. I only got one disk to work with so I gotta get the most bang for the caliper as I can.... Any suggestions?It's been on there for over a year, and now you tell me!:-D
J/K, I've been watching the bolts...6,000 miles and nothing has moved so far. (keep your fingers crossed)
You know, when I started this thread, I was hoping other folks would maybe expand on the idea, and come up with a better way that is still a bolt on solution...I guess I'm the only one that thinks stock brakes are even more dangerous than my metal fabrication techniques. :shock:Comment
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