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Custom Triple Tree Only Way Out?
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drhermanstein
I'm moving the top forward 3/4 of an inch and less at the bottom to keep the wheelbase dimension the same. That gives a little less rake, and the clearance necessary while retaining stability.Originally posted by NoBars View Post
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Billy Ricks
3/4" might be a little extreme depending on how far out you bring the bottom. You should just take things back together then assemble and see what you end up with. That big of a change may end up more radical than you're looking for.Originally posted by drhermanstein View PostI'm moving the top forward 3/4 of an inch and less at the bottom to keep the wheelbase dimension the same. That gives a little less rake, and the clearance necessary while retaining stability.
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madjack57754
I've only moved the rake the other way cutting so the front end ended up with 38 degrees of rake. Very stable in a straight line.Harder to turn into corners. The front wheel wanted to "flop" over some what. It's even worse on the funnybike with over 40 degrees in the neck. It has to be taken around a corner by riding it like a snowmobile, Shifting weight by hanging off side to side. Some of that is attributable to the 12.5" wide rear car tire
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drhermanstein
from the test fitting and measurements it looks like the bottom of the neck will move out only 7/16ths. I really had interference probs with the tracy body and my GSXR fork tubes.Originally posted by Billy Ricks View Post3/4" might be a little extreme depending on how far out you bring the bottom. You should just take things back together then assemble and see what you end up with. That big of a change may end up more radical than you're looking for.
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Mike_H
Any Idea what kind of trail/rake measurements your going to end up with? By standing the forks up (bringing them closer to perpendicular with the ground) your going to make the bike more "twitchy," i.e. it will have reduced straight line stability, but should lean over into corners with more authority. Thats fine if you want that, but just wanted you to be aware. She's going to ride a lot more like a really heavy crotch rocket now. Depending on how much the 3/4" is going to affect your geometry, you may want to think about a steering damper, and plan your neck changes to incorperate one.
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drhermanstein
Steering damper is definitely part of the equation and the increase in "twichiness" is what I would like. I figure that the rake will be 24-25 degrees instead of 28 stock.Originally posted by Mike_H View PostAny Idea what kind of trail/rake measurements your going to end up with? By standing the forks up (bringing them closer to perpendicular with the ground) your going to make the bike more "twitchy," i.e. it will have reduced straight line stability, but should lean over into corners with more authority. Thats fine if you want that, but just wanted you to be aware. She's going to ride a lot more like a really heavy crotch rocket now. Depending on how much the 3/4" is going to affect your geometry, you may want to think about a steering damper, and plan your neck changes to incorperate one.
Herman
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Billy Ricks
So in the end you're just moving the top about 5/16ths further out. Sounds about right for what you're trying to accomplish.Originally posted by drhermanstein View Postfrom the test fitting and measurements it looks like the bottom of the neck will move out only 7/16ths. I really had interference probs with the tracy body and my GSXR fork tubes.
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drhermanstein
The top of the neck will move out 3/4 and the bottom 7/16.Originally posted by Billy Ricks View PostSo in the end you're just moving the top about 5/16ths further out. Sounds about right for what you're trying to accomplish.
I'm going on the premise that the rake is measured from a theoretical vertical line intersecting the axle and perpendicular to the horizon or a line intersecting the top of the neck and perpendicular to the horizon. Is this correct? I'v always only assumed this but never seen it represented.
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Billy Ricks
Your formula is actually how you measure trail. Rake is simply how far from vertical the neck is. It doesn't take into account things like how much offset the triples present and where the axle sits in the fork. Rake just uses a straight line through the steering head and you would have to have the suspension and wheels mounted to find what vertical is for the bike at the steering head.Originally posted by drhermanstein View PostThe top of the neck will move out 3/4 and the bottom 7/16.
I'm going on the premise that the rake is measured from a theoretical vertical line intersecting the axle and perpendicular to the horizon or a line intersecting the top of the neck and perpendicular to the horizon. Is this correct? I'v always only assumed this but never seen it represented.
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Thanks for the link Billy.Originally posted by Billy Ricks View Post
Very helpful info.Doug aka crag antler

83GS1100E, gone
2000 Kawasaki Concours
Please wear ATGATT

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drhermanstein
Awesome. I'm bang on with what they suggest. Thanks so much for that link and info.Originally posted by Billy Ricks View PostYour formula is actually how you measure trail. Rake is simply how far from vertical the neck is. It doesn't take into account things like how much offset the triples present and where the axle sits in the fork. Rake just uses a straight line through the steering head and you would have to have the suspension and wheels mounted to find what vertical is for the bike at the steering head.
http://www.performanceoiltechnology...._and_trail.htm
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drhermanstein -
pan
A friend made them for me, he asked what I wanted and modified an existing design that he used for a VJ21 RGV 250. They look far nicer in the flesh, the only downside is that I may have to use clipons and I would prefer proper bars but I am working on a cunning plan:-)
Mark...
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