Nees some help with new mods...

**roadragetrx** · 04-10-2007, 03:53 PM

When i added my V&H 4-1 i had o rejet mine.. it is also a 77 gs750 i ended up with 115 mains and it hink it was 17.5 pilots

**Jarrod** · 04-10-2007, 06:41 PM

thanks for the info....I am gonna need all the help I can get8-[
I forgot to mention I have installed dyna coils and ignition system....

**AOD** · 04-10-2007, 07:03 PM

The Dyna upgrade on the GS's with points ignition is a huge upgrade. Dyna coils rock.

**KEITH KRAUSE** · 04-13-2007, 06:42 PM

For that pipe, I'd allow two full sizes up on the mains. For the cheaper pods, an additional 3 full sizes. A full size up on Mikuni jets is 5. I believe your stock '77 mains were either 102.5 or 100's(?). So I'd increase them by 25 (125 or 127.5).
I'd raise the jet needles 2 positions richer than stock. If your jet needle e-clips are in the third position from the top, lower them to the bottom (5th) position. Replace all factory jet needle spacers in factory order.
For the pilot circuit, I'd first try to make the stock #15 pilot jet work with simple richer pilot fuel screw adjustments. If the bikes pilot circuit was running well before the mods, then I'd richen the pilot fuel screws (underneath) 1/2 more turn out than their current position. If more richness needed, try an additional 1/2 turn out. Test. If no joy by about 2 1/2 turns out, then I'd go with the larger 17.5 pilot jets and return the screws to their initial settings.
Initially set the side air screws to 1 3/4 turns out.
Be sure to REMOVE the 2 floatbowl vent lines when running pods. Leave the vent ports open.
Bench synch the carbs whenever the jet needles are disturbed. Vacuum synch the carbs after the bench synch.
Before the vacuum synch, warm up fully and adjust the side air screws using the highest rpm method. Also, the ignition timing/advance must be spot on and all valve tappet clearances set correctly before the vacuum synch.
Be sure the bike is ready for re-jetting. Clean carbs, good inner carb o-rings, float levels, new manifold o-rings and good manifolds, electrical connections all clean, etc, are necessary.
Test for the main at full throttle, the jet needles at 1/3 throttle, and the pilot circuit at minimal throttle. Chop off and get plug reads. Do what the plugs/performance tell you.

**Jarrod** · 04-13-2007, 08:18 PM

Thanks a bunch Keith,I have a good friend who is a jam up Kawasaki
Mechanic.I will Print out this thread and take it to him.
He will be helping me do the work at his shop.
I really appreciate your input.It is a real hoot playing with this
30 year old bike.
I will post before and after pics when I get done.
do you have any more suggestions on what I can do to this bike?
I am looking for more low end power than I am top end.
any other ideas would be great!!!
chain,sprockets,nitrous...( just kidding about the gas )
where is your favorite place to buy parts from?
again thanks for your and everyones input
\\

/

**KEITH KRAUSE** · 04-13-2007, 08:32 PM

If you prefer the widest possible powerband and want power a bit lower in the rpm range, my personal preference with your kind of engine/mods is to set the cam timing at 106 degrees. This gives the best compromise between mid-range torque and top end HP. 107/108 tops but that starts to favor top end performance. You'll need adjustable cam sprockets to do this. Filing out the stock sprockets will work too but I just suggest the adjustable ones.
I buy most of my parts from the Suzuki dealer or local parts shop. Most people say Bikebandit and Dennis Kirk are good suppliers.

**Jarrod** · 04-13-2007, 09:40 PM

Thanks again for all of the help

Nees some help with new mods...

Nees some help with new mods...

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