Track stories 2007

[RacingJake]

My old, very old MC2 ignition box has a built in kill system. I got it set up when my air shifter relay is engerize it grounds a wire on the mc2 and it kills the ignition. So the longer I keep my shift button pressed the longer the kill time is plus the longer the air shifter is engerize too. Works really good and it's simple.

My clutch lever switch is a 3 wire one and since I'm only using the one grounding side when the lever is pulled in for the 2 step I figure I'll ground my nitrous relay throught the other side once the clutch is release. I like simple and if I keep the nos where it's at my new slick should do fine, I hope ??

I was looking at some new ignition boxes, 2 step's and nitrous controllers but $400 for this and $400 for that etc, I was over grand already and figure I'd try to make what I have work.

The tranny is stock but I did replace my shifting drum last year and that has cure my mis-shifts but the clutch is 2 years old and has a few hundred runs so next month new fibers are going in.

So my new goal is to break 125 mph and see it I can match my bike number 559, if I can find another 3 tenth's???????? and run a 5.59 that would be awesome in the next 2 weekends before the track closes.

[lecroy]

Jake, there is absolutly nothing wrong with the MC-2. That's a VERY good ignition. I would never have switched to the MC-4 knowing what I know now. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I had an MC1 that was upgraded to the MC-2 to get the 2nd chip for the two limiters. Your MC-2 does have a 2-step and a rev limter chip doesn't it?

I never knew this is what you were doing for the shift. There is a little problem. When you kill the MC-2 your not making any power. The longer you kill, the more time you waste. The air cylider doesn't matter. You could have it on for a quater second and it will not hurt your E/T. But to kill that long is surely not helping. I don't know anyone running kill times more than 0.100 seconds. The MC-4 only goes up to 0.099 seconds. I run 0.075 and it still may be a little much. All it needs to do is just unload the transmission long enough to make the shift.

This is the good thing about a 2-3 or full auto. You don't need to kill at all until 4th and 5th and can shift under full power.

What your doing is very simple and will obviosly work, but there is one other problem with it. If you E/T race you now have two variables. How consistant you can push the button and how consistant you release it.

As you keep going quicker another side effect of what your doing is that when the bike shifts it must be bucking. This is harder on parts and this is how I screwed up my neck. I would hate to see you walking around like an old man before your time.

The counter can time the kill for you which I bet would make the bike run quicker and more consistant. May make for a very nice Christmas present. Also, this is what I was using to kill my MC-1/2 so I know it works fine with it.

5.59 at 125 is flying! You would have hung right with me this weekend. My first pass with the new parts was 1.3080 60', 5.5481 @ 124.95 1/8, 8.7399 @ 154,76 1/4.

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Ryan, I like the G meter. The strange thing is that based on what you said and their manuals, this should be as good as my logger for the tack and gear sensor. It's a digital signal with a timer so it should be dead on. Strange also is that it is lower. If it were noise, I would have guessed it would read higher. Any chance you would want to send it to me to look at this winter. At least then I could give you an idea of what its real limits are and what may be causing the problem.

[RacingJake]

The mc2 does have a built in 2 step with 2 slot's for your chip's. If they ever built a mc2 with a retard for starting and for nitrous years ago they probably be out of business today.

I do have a shift box and a mps air pressure switch that I tried when I was having all those mis-shifts that didn't help most likely due to a worn out shifting drum. Might just give them a try again now that it's shifting better.

I might just put that counter on my Xmas list !!

[lecroy]

Thats the only thing I am using on the MC4 now, the retard for starting. I doubt I even need that with my super low cranking pressures.

We went for a ride today to look at some parts that were for sale. If I told you what I saw you would not believe me. So I took some pictures for proof. I am not sure who built this but maybe they will chime in.

The is the intake. Pretty common setup so far. Hogged out so big that new spigots are mounted to the head. I have a friend with a pro-mod engine similar to this.

[lecroy]

But then we look at it from the top. Its hogged out to the max to fit the high lift cams in, pretty standard. But look down where the plugs go. Yes, thats a 3 plug head! 6 Dyna coils on this engine!

Now I will grant you that it had a lot of work done to it, but come on, was 3 plugs really going to buy them anything?

[lecroy]

This is a MTC 2-valve blank casting for pro-stock if you ever wondered whay they used for head.

[RacingJake]

Got the nos relay hooked up to the clutch lever switch and the nos will only come on if the lever is out and my button is pushed in. 2 step works when the lever is pulled in so I'm good to go. The 3 wire switch was made just for this........... I guess ??

Just need to make a run and see how well it works.

[lecroy]

Jake, just a thought. A few people at the track besides me use a hand clutch. They connect the 2-step into the lever like your doing. The one I looked at had a little adjuster to set where the switch popped at.

With your Ford custom launch system, I thought you pulled in the clutch then pushed in a button to hold the clutch.

I wonder (more mindless rambles) if you would be better off putting a switch right on the clutch arm to tell when to hit the spray. You could set this to make 100% sure that the clutch has at least released.

[RacingJake]

Jake, just a thought. A few people at the track besides me use a hand clutch. They connect the 2-step into the lever like your doing. The one I looked at had a little adjuster to set where the switch popped at.

With your Ford custom launch system, I thought you pulled in the clutch then pushed in a button to hold the clutch.

I wonder (more mindless rambles) if you would be better off putting a switch right on the clutch arm to tell when to hit the spray. You could set this to make 100% sure that the clutch has at least released.

There is a adjustment screw to change when the clutch lever switch will activate, but i'm thinking with such a small shot I can also drop the 2 step rpm some. With both I should be able to find that sweet spot.

You are correct on the operation of the Ford relay and I was thinking of the same thing about that clutch arm.

[BadBillyB]

Jake, although I have been out of the racing loop for quite some time, I can tell you that I had the best results with nitrous by dropping 3 or 4 teeth off the rear sprocket and hitting the nitrous right off the line with a switch on my throttle linkage (WOT)....The nitrous makes so much torque it pulls the tall gearing well with minimal tire spin......This method also takes the "shock" out of hitting the button going down the track......Clocked a 164.85 MPH trap speed at Gainesville Fl. back around 1984-85 ........Billy

[RacingJake]

I've heard that before Billy and I may just do that. With 14/46 gearing my shift light is on 10K at the traps and my rev-limit is 10800 and I just ride it through the traps in 4 gear so I know it's really close to hitting it. So far it's a real smooth ride even shifting gears you don't feel much just that constant acceleration through all the gears.

Tonight I'm going to hit the button when the light turns green and see what happens??? Hopefully I don't blow away the clutch or slick. If the clutch goes I'll replace the 41 pound springs with some 46'ers and if the slick goes I'll drop the 2 step from 7K to 6 or 5K and see if that helps.

I do have a 42 sprocket if needed. Just maybe I can crack into the 1.2's 60ft ??? and I sure hope they prep that track really good tonight.

[RacingJake]

Clocked a 164.85 MPH trap speed at Gainesville Fl. back around 1984-85 ........Billy

I was station at MacDill at that time and I did go to Gainesville and watch some racing... who knows maybe I saw you too. I do remember it was living hell trying to get out of that parking lot.

[RacingJake]

Well tonight was not the best, the track wasn't in the best shape either. Right from the get go i was spinning the rear without hitting the nos and when I did she'd start spinning down the track, so I took what I could get. I did run another 5.87 and the mph picked up to 123.93 best to date and it only took me 1.99 seconds to get from the 330 line to the 1/8 line. I thought that was kinda neat?? My 60ft was a 1.49 and that just suck suck sucked. Can you feel my pain.........:twisted:

I did get one good launch but had to back out due to the center stripe, that could of been the one that got away??

I did find a 2 1/2 lb nos bottle, just need to install it cause filling the 1lb gets alittle old. I'd get 2 runs out of it then I top if off with my 10lb bottle.

Going to mount the bigger bottle this week and try the 42 sprocket, may even order that Schnitz's 2 dial controller. Only got one weekend left

[lecroy]

There is something in the rules that requires a motorcycle to have a chain guard and that the body work is not considered a chain guard.

This is a good rule to have!

[rosco15]

We'll I talked to Schnitz this week and figured out why the auto shift has never worked for me. I was activating the box wrong. Made 6 flawless auto shifting passes. I like it and will be using it next year. You have to turn the 2-step on before activating the box. I always did it the other way around.

We had a strong tail wind. Led to a new personal best ET and MPH.
1.315
3.780
5.884 @ 116.805 mph
7.680
9.315 @ 140.783

I still can't cut a light to save my butt. Practiced with my tree this week to try and stop going red all the time. Now I'm in the 560-600 range all day. I guess I'll adjust my practice tree and see if I can get it in the middle someplace.