Kichigai GS1100ESD

You be right Ray! I think it was a carrage bolt that I bought! I will repost new pictures of the lower tripple tree bolts as soon as I get them.

So, I made some more progess on my GS1100esd project so I thought I post up new pixs. Here is a picture of me on it checking out the ride! Ok so that not me but my little helper (4 year old son) who aided in the project. He deserved some credit for his help! We still have a bit more work to do to be finished but wanted to share what we got done so far. The clip on are just for observation and to help move the bike around while I work on mounting the new bar risers.

In case anyone wanted to know, the new front end fit just fine without having any clearance issues with from my stock fairing. No cutting of plastic was required. \\/
Check out the new matching Lockhart Phillips turn signals that I installed too. I think they look cleaner that the stock ones!

OK! So what do you all think??





Here is a comparison picture to see what it use to look like.

[rapidray]

Sorry guys, but that was a CARRIAGE bolt, NOT a lag bolt. Either way, get the right part. Ray.

One thing you may want to consider is using some longer than stock shocks to raise up the rear a little bit. This will make the bike steer quicker than stock and help you fully utilize those new sticky D208 radials. It'll also give you a bit more ground clearance. ZRX1200 shocks perhaps?

Thanks I will keep that in mind but I am already on my tip toe just to get my 2 feet on the ground! If I go too much higher, I may look like a short guy riding a 2 stroke dirt bike if you can picture it. It's a bummer only being 5'4" tall!

One thing you may want to consider is using some longer than stock shocks to raise up the rear a little bit. This will make the bike steer quicker than stock and help you fully utilize those new sticky D208 radials. It'll also give you a bit more ground clearance. ZRX1200 shocks perhaps?

Please don't do this! Lag bolts are made from the cheapest, nastiest steel available to bolt manufacturers. They are barely strong enough for use with wood. NEVER use one in a critical structural assembly!!

Just think for a second what will happen if that bolt breaks :shock:

See if you can find a button-head metric screw or have the bolt hole recessed for the head of a regular socket head metric screw.

I agree, use at least 8.8 grade metric bolts for anything structural.

And, wow, this is going to look AWESOME when you're done.

Ok ! I will take the lag bolt out! Man, and I thought I found a good fix too! Bummer!! Oh well, but this is good! I would rather be safe now than being sorry later. This is exactly why I like posting up so many pixs. I get helpful feedback with do and dont so I can fix them along the way and so other can learn from my mistakes. \\/ Thanks fellas!

Rule #1: Never use hardware store bolts unless you don't care if it breaks.

Ok ! I will take the lag bolt out! Man, and I thought I found a good fix too! Bummer!! Oh well, but this is good! I would rather be safe now than being sorry later. This is exactly why I like posting up so many pixs. I get helpful feedback with do and dont so I can fix them along the way and so other can learn from my mistakes. \\/ Thanks fellas!

Holy crap!! didn't notice that.............. I concur. Get that bolt out of there

grind an angle on the socket head a little or heaat up the fairing frame with a propane torch on the offending side and a pair of pliers will give you the relief you need. Don't mess with the triple.

Next I had to use a lag bolt with a lock washer and nut to replace one of the lower tree fork mount bolts to make a little more room. If not, the fork tubes would have hit the lower part of the fairing frame when making turns.

Please don't do this! Lag bolts are made from the cheapest, nastiest steel available to bolt manufacturers. They are barely strong enough for use with wood. NEVER use one in a critical structural assembly!!

Just think for a second what will happen if that bolt breaks :shock:

See if you can find a button-head metric screw or have the bolt hole recessed for the head of a regular socket head metric screw.

Thanks Katman! I will keep that in mind.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd48/Keiichi-pixs/GS1100%20Project/gsfront9.jpg[/IMG]

Coming along nicely................

Don't forget there is at least an inch of sag in the suspention when you get on

In order to clear the larger size fork tubes inside the front fairing frame, a few things had to be done:

I had to install a few washers between the fairing frame and where it mount up to the bike frame to move it out a bit to give it a little more clearance.


Next I had to use a lag bolt with a lock washer and nut to replace one of the lower tree fork mount bolts to make a little more room. If not, the fork tubes would have hit the lower part of the fairing frame when making turns.




Ok! I checked the ground clearance from the ground to the lowest part of the headers. I think I have around 3 to 4 inches! I may have to re-measure later since I took the picture with the bike on the kick stand but its not a bad start.

Here is a picture with the new 93-95 GSXR750 front suspension partially installed on my GS1100esd.





I picked up a new ignition from Ebay which I think will work but may have to grind down the ignition lock stop plate a bit to make it fit.

ah yes. Thats a better pic

Thanks Katman,
Here is another picture of the tripple tree. Its definately not flat on top so I thinks its froma 954. At least thats what it said on the Ebay ad.