Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Twinpot Brake upgrade on 78 Skunk

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • gtem
    replied
    I haven't read through all 64 pages (yet!), but has anyone done any weight comparisons between a typical set of twin GS rotors and calipers and the new parts (together with the adapters, rotors, twin pot calipers etc)? I would assume there's a decent amount of weight taken off the fork, and that would be yet another non-trivial plus to the upgrade.

    Leave a comment:


  • salty_monk
    replied
    You use the smaller 6mm holes to bolt the spacer onto the back of the rotor (preferably using shoulder bolts). You then plunge a 21/64 Drill all the way through the spacer & rotor spider. It's best done on a drill press if you can.

    I then remove the spacer & "kiss" both sides of the new hole with a countersink to take any rough edges off (it's very important the back of the rotor spider is flat when you've finished otherwise the brake will pulse).

    The spacer goes between the wheel hub & rotor

    Leave a comment:


  • garyS-NJ
    replied
    Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
    The difference in performance is "night & day". Loads more power, loads more feel. Takes it to a 2 finger brake from a "oh Sh** grab a handful" stock brake.

    I worked the rotor swap out about a year ago, first changed the G over about 7 or 8 months ago & have done a couple thousand miles on it.

    To fit this swap.. you just need to get a kit from me, some CBR F3 Rotors & Some Kawasaki twinpot pistons.

    You can probably budget:

    $30 - $50 on calipers depending on rebuild status, Ebay skills (They were used from about 87 up to 97 so it depends what year you get. Al ot of early ones need new pin rubbers although seals are generally ok).
    $30 - $40 on brake pads. (I actually got one set of calipers for $30 with a set of useable pads once...)
    $50 - $100 on CBR Rotors (depending on your Ebay skills)
    $110 - 120 for the brackets, spacers & bolts. Depending on location, how you send the money etc.

    Takes probably 3 or 4 hours to do it the first time as you have to re-drill the rotors using a drilling jig etc.

    Well worth the money & effort.

    Dan
    Wow I know I'm commenting on an old post but I just sent you a message Dan and long story short with your kits I bought years ago and concourse calipers and cbr600 f3 (I think f3). I opened up the rotor mount bolts and found they don't line up. So I have to center your mounting bolt spacer and drill 6 new holes... Ugg!!!! Is there instructions anywhere you might email me or a link? Wondering if the supplier bolt hole spacer goes inside or outside the disc.. also wondering if I still use my stock mounting bolt 6 hole discs.

    Leave a comment:


  • salty_monk
    replied
    Originally posted by Ukcalling View Post
    Is the need to change the discs the offset or swept area of the discs and where pads contact? Want to upgrade my calipers but have new discs on my gs1000g hence the question

    Thanks Nick
    Hi Nick - Both. The bigger discs also create more room between the caliper and wheel spokes.

    Leave a comment:


  • salty_monk
    replied
    Originally posted by Ossipeelake View Post
    Hi Dan,
    I'm looking to purchase one of your front brake upgrade kits for my GS1000EC. I have wanted to do this conversion for years now and hope that you have a set of brackets still in inventory.
    Please let me know, I am located in New Hampshire.
    Thanks, Steve​
    I PM’d you Steve.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ukcalling
    replied
    Is the need to change the discs the offset or swept area of the discs and where pads contact? Want to upgrade my calipers but have new discs on my gs1000g hence the question

    Thanks Nick

    Leave a comment:


  • Ossipeelake
    replied
    Hi Dan,
    I'm looking to purchase one of your front brake upgrade kits for my GS1000EC. I have wanted to do this conversion for years now and hope that you have a set of brackets still in inventory.
    Please let me know, I am located in New Hampshire.
    Thanks, Steve​

    Leave a comment:


  • salty_monk
    replied
    Back at you Larry!

    Leave a comment:


  • alke46
    replied
    Dan, PM sent yesterday.........

    Leave a comment:


  • salty_monk
    replied
    On the F3 rotors that is correct yes. There are some somewhat rarer F4 rotors that just need the holes enlarged but you still need a spacer to increase the offset away from the wheel.

    Leave a comment:


  • WillKo
    replied
    So the holes on the F3 rotors don't just need to resized from 6mm to 8mm they need to be redrilled entirely?

    Leave a comment:


  • salty_monk
    replied
    Originally posted by WillKo View Post
    I see you recommend F3 rotors and they require drilling using a jig, what exactly is being done? Are you opening up the holes? Would rotors from a SV650S work?
    No rotors from an SV650 will not work. Rotors from a CBR will work but they need a hub spacer behind them. The F3 ones need a new PCD or Bolt circle drilled between the original holes. The hub spacer is also the drilling jig.

    Leave a comment:


  • Suzukian
    replied
    Honestly, this thread should be a "STICKY".

    Leave a comment:


  • WillKo
    replied
    I see you recommend F3 rotors and they require drilling using a jig, what exactly is being done? Are you opening up the holes? Would rotors from a SV650S work?

    Leave a comment:


  • johnod
    replied
    Originally posted by John Kat View Post
    My GS 1000 ST is now fitted with Salty Monk's conversion kit.
    I used CBR 900 92-93 disks with SV 650 04 ? calipers.
    It all came together very nicely and the weight saving is substantial!
    The total weight came down by 1340 gr including the brackets in the kit.
    I believe the kit looks fantastic with the larger disk better filling the 19" front wheel.

    Thanks Dan!

    I fitted them to my SN as well, they work well and look good doing it.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X