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Twinpot Brake upgrade on 78 Skunk
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Finally bolting up the salty monk twin pot upgrade on my 1979 gs1000e and I see the speedo drive dust seal (#10 in parts Fischer metal shield with 6 holes for rotor bolts) extends about 4mm past the wheel hub. I don't see why I should trim the dust seal in fact I think it should be longer to further envelope thd speedo drive. Now I'm wondering if I trimmed it before powder coating. I remember in this post with directions there was something about trimming the dust seal and just read that was for some later bikes. So I laid the wheel up the speedo drive and see that the drive fits into the dust seal and there's a ledge on the drive so the seal extends around the drive and that ledge on the drive is sbout that same 4mm.
this is where I'm scratching my head because the tabs on the speedo drive only extend about 0.030" into the hub notches barely giving much drive surface. But the speedo drive itself laid up against the hub hits home to the wheel bearing inner so even with the old stock rotor, or untrimmed dust seal (if I did trim it), I would not have deeper contact between the speedo drive tabs and the hub notches. This is looking like I should trim the speedo drive itself so the drive tabs extend deeper into the wheel but that don't make sense because I'm sure the drive inner is flush with the wheel bearing inner acting like a spacer in which case the only way I'd have more tab contact area would be to use a different speedo drive (or tab washer which is removable with a snap ring.
now I know I'm sounding like an idiot because even with just 0.030" tab to hub notch contact, the wheel does drive the speedo. All that said, the dust shield definately isn't holding the speedo drive out so I'm thinking I should bolt it up because it will be how it was with the old rotors
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Hi Neil - I just got back from there, could have bought you a set of brackets over...
I do still have some on my shelf. I'll PM you. Dan
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Good afternoon,
i have had my 1983 gsx 1100es for several years and have recently become aware i would perhaps like to stop a little sooner, old age and reaction times perhaps, bit of a long shot but you wouldnt happen to have an adaption kit and list of parts for a 1983 GSX 1100 es? im in the uk.
regards Neill
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The kit doesn't work on a typical L fork (leading axle). You'd have to either change to axle under type fork legs or use the brackets as a template to cut one specifically for the L. All the spacers etc would work....
It's been done before using one of these kits as a base but not by me. I've never had an L to play with (and there's not a lot of demand).
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Please advise by PM if you have a kit still available for a 79 Gs1000L. Thank you, Alan
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Yes I still have some kits on my shelf. It's about $135 (USD) all-in to Australia depending on what shipping you want. I wish a few more of you guys would club together, the flat rate boxes would easily take half a dozen sets for no more shipping cost
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hi salty
I have GS 750 1979 Model and wiuld like to upgrade the calipers.
Do you have the brackerts for sale?
steve
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Yes especially if you use the lightest 7 rivet CBR Rotors, that's the biggest difference.
The adapter plus twinpot caliper is approx the same weight as the GS lump. I did do all the sums years ago, they are probably in this thread somewhere but I can't remember the difference offhand.
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I haven't read through all 64 pages (yet!), but has anyone done any weight comparisons between a typical set of twin GS rotors and calipers and the new parts (together with the adapters, rotors, twin pot calipers etc)? I would assume there's a decent amount of weight taken off the fork, and that would be yet another non-trivial plus to the upgrade.
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You use the smaller 6mm holes to bolt the spacer onto the back of the rotor (preferably using shoulder bolts). You then plunge a 21/64 Drill all the way through the spacer & rotor spider. It's best done on a drill press if you can.
I then remove the spacer & "kiss" both sides of the new hole with a countersink to take any rough edges off (it's very important the back of the rotor spider is flat when you've finished otherwise the brake will pulse).
The spacer goes between the wheel hub & rotor
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Wow I know I'm commenting on an old post but I just sent you a message Dan and long story short with your kits I bought years ago and concourse calipers and cbr600 f3 (I think f3). I opened up the rotor mount bolts and found they don't line up. So I have to center your mounting bolt spacer and drill 6 new holes... Ugg!!!! Is there instructions anywhere you might email me or a link? Wondering if the supplier bolt hole spacer goes inside or outside the disc.. also wondering if I still use my stock mounting bolt 6 hole discs.Originally posted by salty_monk View PostThe difference in performance is "night & day". Loads more power, loads more feel. Takes it to a 2 finger brake from a "oh Sh** grab a handful" stock brake.
I worked the rotor swap out about a year ago, first changed the G over about 7 or 8 months ago & have done a couple thousand miles on it.
To fit this swap.. you just need to get a kit from me, some CBR F3 Rotors & Some Kawasaki twinpot pistons.
You can probably budget:
$30 - $50 on calipers depending on rebuild status, Ebay skills (They were used from about 87 up to 97 so it depends what year you get. Al ot of early ones need new pin rubbers although seals are generally ok).
$30 - $40 on brake pads. (I actually got one set of calipers for $30 with a set of useable pads once...)
$50 - $100 on CBR Rotors (depending on your Ebay skills)
$110 - 120 for the brackets, spacers & bolts. Depending on location, how you send the money etc.
Takes probably 3 or 4 hours to do it the first time as you have to re-drill the rotors using a drilling jig etc.
Well worth the money & effort.
Dan
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Hi Nick - Both. The bigger discs also create more room between the caliper and wheel spokes.Originally posted by Ukcalling View PostIs the need to change the discs the offset or swept area of the discs and where pads contact? Want to upgrade my calipers but have new discs on my gs1000g hence the question
Thanks Nick
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I PM’d you Steve.Originally posted by Ossipeelake View PostHi Dan,
I'm looking to purchase one of your front brake upgrade kits for my GS1000EC. I have wanted to do this conversion for years now and hope that you have a set of brackets still in inventory.
Please let me know, I am located in New Hampshire.
Thanks, Steve
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Is the need to change the discs the offset or swept area of the discs and where pads contact? Want to upgrade my calipers but have new discs on my gs1000g hence the question
Thanks Nick
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Hi Dan,
I'm looking to purchase one of your front brake upgrade kits for my GS1000EC. I have wanted to do this conversion for years now and hope that you have a set of brackets still in inventory.
Please let me know, I am located in New Hampshire.
Thanks, Steve
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