Clutch Hub Rebuild - need advice

[Guest]

It will eventually bend the tabs out and let the springs out. Guess where the pieces go.

Jay

[salty_monk]

Personally I think if you have good penetration on those welds & it looks like you do, then it should be fine..
If you've ever tried to shear a weld like that you'll know how tough it is, I'm sure it will be at least as strong as the heads on the rivets were beforehand.

Jim - read the article, the guy uses the stock backplate for his 1000. He does use an uprated one on his Katana. That's not to say that an uprated might not be a good idea but Ed has a flat table & that 1000 he is working on seems like it's been beat on pretty good, if the plate is still flat after that I would think it's fine....

Dan

[salty_monk]

Ed, every place that rebuilds clutch hubs welds the rivets ALL the way around. Why do you think that is? Ray.

I suspect Habit... the first guy did it that way & everyone copied him. Just because something is usual practice doesn't always mean it's best or necessary.

[rapidray]

If you all stop & think about how much LOAD is on those rivets you would KNOW to weld them all the way around. Those rivets are the only 3 things keeping the gear attached to the basket! Ray.

[Nessism]

Took the hub and had it welded all the way round - guy charged me $10 which seemed fair. My thinking is that the rolled edge on those rivets was all the way around before so better be safe and weld it all the way around. The welder guy recommended having the hub balanced. It was put together in the same orientation as before so I'm struggling to see the value in balancing it.

As an aside, the springs don't rattle now with those washers stuck in there shimming them. Hope the clutch rattle noise is gone now.

[salty_monk]

Maybe the same guy will do the one on my Skunk if this works out for you?

Better to be safe than sorry in this case I'm sure.

I was wondering if there was any reason the rivets couldn't be tapped & a hard washer (like the type used on head bolts) bolted to them to captivate the plate.

That way you could definitely tell that you are putting the same amount of metal back into each area.

Maybe there's not enough clearance or too much force, just thinking aloud.

Dan

[Nessism]

Maybe the same guy will do the one on my Skunk if this works out for you?

Better to be safe than sorry in this case I'm sure.

I was wondering if there was any reason the rivets couldn't be tapped & a hard washer (like the type used on head bolts) bolted to them to captivate the plate.

That way you could definitely tell that you are putting the same amount of metal back into each area.

Maybe there's not enough clearance or too much force, just thinking aloud.

Dan

Hey Dan,

I don't think there is enough room behind the hub for anything sticking up. That said, I'm sure there are other ways to secure the clutch hub other than welding or peening the rivets.

BTW, if you want a hub for your Skunk, I have a spare that was purchased on ebay. We could get that one shimmed and welded so you could do a straight swap with your old rattling hub. Let me know if interested.

Ed

[salty_monk]

Excellent Idea, thanks Ed. Let me know what I need to do & how many $$ I'm going to owe you. It's funny that the one on my G doesn't rattle the same.

I'll have to bring that wheel over one day too!

Are you coming on the BSA run with us this Sunday morning or is Garrett (spelling? Sorry) with you this weekend?

Dan