My 1982 GS 650 L needs an oil change?

[shawn]

What type of oil should I use? What type do you use?

[Odinist]

I just use what the manual says... 10w40. =)

**edit**

May be 30, I can't remember (and I'm at work so I can't run to my garage and look at the bottle, haha).

[Nessism]

Diesel engine oil has more high pressure additives than auto oil, so it is ideally suited for use in a motorcycle. It typically comes in 15W-40, which is a good weight for a GS as long as the temperature is not freezing out. Rotella is a popular brand but just about any diesel engine oil is suitable.

[tkent02]

Diesel engine oil has more high pressure additives than auto oil, so it is ideally suited for use in a motorcycle. It typically comes in 15W-40, which is a good weight for a GS as long as the temperature is not freezing out. Rotella is a popular brand but just about any diesel engine oil is suitable.

Just about anything is OK unless it says "Energy Conserving" if it does it may make your clutch start to slip.

[Nathan Daube]

10/40 or 20/50

Im running 20/50 in my GS850, but the other day I ran in to this mechanic that was all into my bike and went on at length about how great they were (Made me really happy). When I told him I was running 20/50 he was all concerned that I might be doing damage to the engine. Any truth to his worries??

[Dink]

Im running 20/50 in my GS850, but the other day I ran in to this mechanic that was all into my bike and went on at length about how great they were (Made me really happy). When I told him I was running 20/50 he was all concerned that I might be doing damage to the engine. Any truth to his worries??

NO!! you may want to consider a lighter weight oil next time though, due to local temperatures.

Dink

[Nessism]

Just about anything is OK unless it says "Energy Conserving" if it does it may make your clutch start to slip.

Diesel oil has about 30% more zinc than auto oil, and it costs the same. Easy decision for me.

[gearhead13]

What does zinc do to help with lubrication?

[dirtyfingers]

Don't use oils that meet current API ratings. It contains very little ZDDP (Zinc), which is bad for flat tappet cams, esp during break-in. Zinc attracts to iron, and once there molecules stand up, providing a sacraficial layer under high pressure. Zinc is plentiful in diesel oil, so it makes a good substitute. Others would argue that motorcycle specific oil is best because it contains friction modifiers needed for the wet clutch.

[Nessism]

Don't use oils that meet current API ratings. It contains very little ZDDP (Zinc), which is bad for flat tappet cams, esp during break-in. Zinc attracts to iron, and once there molecules stand up, providing a sacraficial layer under high pressure. Zinc is plentiful in diesel oil, so it makes a good substitute. Others would argue that motorcycle specific oil is best because it contains friction modifiers needed for the wet clutch.

I didn't know about causing the molecules to stand up, just know that zinc is to reduce wear at high pressure points in the engines. Car oils typically fall in the 800 ppm range and diesel oil like Rotella is 1200.

Regarding concern about wet clutches, I think the worry is overblown by some people. The oils that are of most concern are labeled as "Energy Conserving", and are thin oils like 5/10W - 30. I've never seen a 10W-40 with the Energy Conserving label. Regarding motorcycles oils, there is a Japanese oil testing standard commonly referenced as MA certification, which tests the oils use in a wet clutch like motorcycles use. Performing certification testing costs money which is why many general consumption oils don't have the MA certification. Not having the MA certification on your oil does not mean you will have clutch problems, it just means the oil was not tested.

[rustybronco]

When I told him I was running 20/50 he was all concerned that I might be doing damage to the engine

It's going to blow up! KIDDING!!
mine has 20w50 in it right now.

Regarding concern about wet clutches, I think the worry is overblown by some people. The oils that are of most concern are labeled as "Energy Conserving", and are thin oils like 5/10W - 30.

Ed,
that is what I believed also, but my cousin has a 1988 venture and for almost it's whole life, it has had 10w30 used with a wet clutch.

http://www.venturerider.org/history.htm#1986%20-%201993

Yamalube 4-cycle oil
SAE 20W40 type SE

If temperature does not go above 60 F(15 C)

SAE 10W30 type SE
Clutch Wet, multiple disc

and if it doesn't slip on that boat with 97 H.P. two up, luggage, ect... nothing will.

[Nessism]

Ed,
that is what I believed also, but my cousin has a 1988 venture and for almost it's whole life, it has had 10w30 used with a wet clutch.

http://www.venturerider.org/history.htm#1986%20-%201993

and if it doesn't slip on that boat with 97 H.P. two up, luggage, ect... nothing will.

Sorry Rusty but I don't understand your point. Are you suggesting that there is real concern with Energy Conserving oils or no concern?

Regarding loaded touring rigs, there is a guy on the Bob is the Oil Guy forum that has tested Energy Conserving oils in his Goldwing with good results; flys in the face of motorcycle oil geeks that insist on using MA oils.

[rustybronco]

Sorry Rusty but I don't understand your point. Are you suggesting that there is real concern with Energy Conserving oils or no concern?

My point is, my cousin has a "very heavy bike", with a wet clutch and it has been using an energy conserving oil for years with no problems.

[Nessism]

My point is, my cousin has a "very heavy bike", with a wet clutch and it has been using an energy conserving oil for years with no problems.

Got it and agree.