1166 dyno info

[Guest]

I will be rebuilding a

1260 kit 10.25:1
1mm over s/s valves
head port, flowed and valve job by Terry
Web 370-3(190) cams
matched intakes
V&H header
39mm Keihin flatslides
straight cut gears

I am hoping for a 150 pull.

I had some serious problems with this engine with 1166 kit. pulled 100 hp. Head, cams, carbs not working together. It was the exact same setup as the 131 motor but with the headwork. The engine would fall flat on its face @ 6k drowning in fuel with 130 mains. Wouldn't smooth out until I put in 127.5's but didn't get back to the dyno.
I put a set of 33 smoothies on her and she took off like a scalded dog so I returned the 36's for a new set. Same problem.

Which brings me to my point.....

Everything has to work together. You can buy all the best components and throw them together but doesn't mean the engine will work the best.

[Guest]

Rob,

It is probably more a matter of what you want out of your bike, instant on v.s. CV lag; the lag being more smooth and forgiving.

Can you provide a comparative assessment?

Jim

"Rotty" on here can. He replaced his stock carbs with some 34 flatslides ( '83 750es) and he told me the performance increase was dramatic. Weather that is true or just the way the power comes on is a good question since there are no numbers to compare. There is no doubt the power comes on much stronger now which is what you pay your bucks for.

If by streetable you mean less powerful than no these are not that streetable. ON/OFF or "not streetable" to me is where there is a dramatic throttle response with minimal input. I don't find the RS's like that. They are very smooth and controllable with the throttle. Until you wac it!!

[posplayr]

With Terry's head I'm running 147.5's mikuni main jets and get about 32 mpg.

I think there is not much trick to 1166 kits, or even adding 340 or 348's (basically drop in) Webs cams. Bill can basically set the carbs on a set of 1150 36mm CV's from memory and it will work almost no fuss.

Head work adds another dimension, and needs be done by someone qualified. But Terry will tell you (as he did me) you don't want the head to be the chock point.

Rob, your 1260 Kat sounds like a monster and yea now the combinations are going to make a big diff at the power level you are trying to acheive. U wanna take on some 1K Gixxers?

[Guest]

With Terry's head I'm running 147.5's mikuni main jets and get about 32 mpg.

I think there is not much trick to 1166 kits, or even adding 340 or 348's (basically drop in) Webs cams. Bill can basically set the carbs on a set of 1150 36mm CV's from memory and it will work almost no fuse.

I have had a few guys tell me their engines ran like dogs with the Web 348's. They replaced the cams and made huge gains. This with 1166 kits & carbs

[rapidray]

Rob,
Also from what I remember Rapid Ray saying he was working on a bike that he built just recently, and with those Web 0.348's 1166 and RS 36mm carbs (also assuming proper head work) that bike was dropping well into the 9's. He was surprised by the additional hp that combo was putting out for just a baby 1166 kit (For Ray it is 1400 or nothing).

I also spoke with the owner of the bike. He reckoned the 348 cams were very street able , although he thought the RS's were more of a street strip (on/off) type of carb.


Jim

The bike ran 9.45 @ 138 mph in 100 degree weather at Fontana. This is a JUNK head with STOCK valves & stock valve job, .348 cams @ 110/108 lobe centers, 36 RSs, 10.25 comp. & a 5.5 inch slick. I was pretty surprised that using all USED parts & just putting it together correctly that it would run that quick! Ray.

[rosco15]

Mine was an 1166 flat top 10.25-1 Wiseco piston kit, 36 flatslides, stock head, stock valves, no porting. Cams were stock, but were degreed in. Bike had a star racing megaphone style exhaust, and msd ignition. 128 hp - torque was 87.4.

The combination before that was with stock pistons. Everything else was the same. Made 113.1 HP and torque was 75.3.

I should also say the bike had straight cut 750 primary gears and it was geared for the strip. The runs were on 2 different dyno's.

[blowerbike]

Mine was an 1166 flat top 10.25-1 Wiseco piston kit, 36 flatslides, stock head, stock valves, no porting. Cams were stock, but were degreed in. Bike had a star racing megaphone style exhaust, and msd ignition. 128 hp - torque was 87.4.

The combination before that was with stock pistons. Everything else was the same. Made 113.1 HP and torque was 75.3.

I should also say the bike had straight cut 750 primary gears and it was geared for the strip. The runs were on 2 different dyno's.

the straight cut primaries will free up a little bit as will the MSD.
did you have a valve job and springs atleast?
lobe centers in the mid 100 range?
good HP numbers either way!

[Guest]

Hmmm, I need to get mine Dyno'd.

[rosco15]

It had good springs in it. I don't recall where I had the lobe centers, but I remember degreeing them. Dont think I did a valve job to it. I still have that head sitting on the shelf.

[Roger P.]

Pardon the newb questions, but at what horsepower range do you need to consider bottom end work and a lockup clutch? These numbers sound quite intriguing for such a "small" engine kit, but having to shell out for rods or tranny work would be a deal breaker for me. I believe the Honda Blackbird was dynoed at around 135-140 rear wheel horsepower, so the thought of my 1100 being able to make this kind of power relatively easily is eye-opening. I take it a header is a necessity? Winter wouldn't be as long with something like this to keep busy with!

[rapidray]

We use a lock up on this 1166 but it has helical gears instead of straight cuts & that takes away a little power. You can build a VERY streetable 1166, or a 1229 if you use an 1150 cylinder , & make close to or over 150 at the rear wheel when done correctly. The stock 492 rods will run WELL into the 8s in a dragbike & some of the Kawi funnybike guys still swear by the 493 Katana rods. I use the 493 rods in all of my crank builds but I build overkill & run my stuff easy. If I were building you a GOOD motor for the street, I would recommend you go 1229 cc, straight cut gears, 493 rods, a modified clutch hub, head work, .370 or so cams, & 38 RS Mikunis. These GS 1100/1150 motors are REALLY tough when put together correctly with good parts & make VERY durable, powerful, street motors. When done RIGHT, they are difficult to break! Ray.

[Guest]

Pardon the newb questions, but at what horsepower range do you need to consider bottom end work and a lockup clutch? These numbers sound quite intriguing for such a "small" engine kit, but having to shell out for rods or tranny work would be a deal breaker for me. I believe the Honda Blackbird was dynoed at around 135-140 rear wheel horsepower, so the thought of my 1100 being able to make this kind of power relatively easily is eye-opening. I take it a header is a necessity? Winter wouldn't be as long with something like this to keep busy with!

to answer your question,

those upgrades alone won't hurt your engine. You don't need to sink anymore money into it. You don't need a lock-up and don't know why you would want one for the street.

[headsbikesmopars]

We use a lock up on this 1166 but it has helical gears instead of straight cuts & that takes away a little power. You can build a VERY streetable 1166, or a 1229 if you use an 1150 cylinder , & make close to or over 150 at the rear wheel when done correctly. The stock 492 rods will run WELL into the 8s in a dragbike & some of the Kawi funnybike guys still swear by the 493 Katana rods. I use the 493 rods in all of my crank builds but I build overkill & run my stuff easy. If I were building you a GOOD motor for the street, I would recommend you go 1229 cc, straight cut gears, 493 rods, a modified clutch hub, head work, .370 or so cams, & 38 RS Mikunis. These GS 1100/1150 motors are REALLY tough when put together correctly with good parts & make VERY durable, powerful, street motors. When done RIGHT, they are difficult to break! Ray.

What he said...

Terry

[rapidray]

to answer your question,

You don't need a lock-up and don't know why you would want one for the street.

That's because you never had one with a LOT of power! Lock ups work FLAWLESSLY on the street with NO drawbacks! When you get to the 150 & over range they are REALLY nice to have as you can keep mushy, stock, easy to pull springs & still not have slippage as the RPM goes up. Anyone tells you that you can't pull the lever in at high RPM is someone that doesn't know what they are talking about. Ray.

[Guest]

. Ray.

Raymond, your not worth it......