Rev Limiter

[Guest]

Hi everyone.

I see on Dyna's website that they have boxes for CDI ignitions and Induction ignitions. My bike has a CDI box, but I don't know if it's necessarily CDI ignition. Here are the different things I found....

Here's the NON-CDI schematic of their new version the "dyna 300"

http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/downloads/instruct/DRL300.pdf

Here's the CDI schematic of their new version the "dyna 300"

http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/downloads/instruct/DRL300CDI.pdf

DYNA DRL-300 Standard Rev Limiter:
The DRL300 has an improved clamping capability, and more outputs than the DRL200. The DRL200 could clamp only 2 of our green (higher impedance) coils. The DRL300 can clamp up to 4 of our blue (low impedance) coils. This means it can be used on drag bikes, and many other applications it could not manage before (automotive HEI ignitions). In addition, the output stage has also added a separate kill input. This input works separate of the rev limiter and can function even when the rev limiter has no power. This will kill the spark whenever a 12V signal is applied to the input.

Potential uses include shift kill to kill ignitions during upshift, allowing for clutchless shifts. Instead of having to cut jumper wires to get the box to work with a particular application, and having only two choices, there are now 3 dip switches. These dip switches allow not only for a very wide range of applications (single fire thumpers to Harleys to inline 4s to 8 cylinders), but they also allow for the rev range to be adjusted from the standard 6000-12000. This means that new motorcycles with 12000+ rpm redlines can now be handled, as can applications where the limit needs to be set below 6000.
DRL-300 Features::
Continuously adjustable from 6,000 to 12,000 rpm Helps prevent engine failure
Prewired and easy to install

Do you know which one I would need for the 83 1100ESD; CDI or Non-CDI?


Thanks,
--
Nick

[Nicholaschase29]

Bike is an 83 1100 ESD...

[Nicholaschase29]

I found my answer here from a guy I emailed on eBay who was kind enough to look into the situation:

http://kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=116&func=view&catid=4&id=346577#346647

This may be something to note...

[rapidray]

Nick, I HIGHLY recommend, if you are changing the ignition system, that you just get a complete Dyna 2000 system for it. It has a built in rev limiter that is adjustable & has a built in start retard also so you can use the billet ignition rotor. Ray.

[Billy Ricks]

Just for future reference none of our bikes have CDI ignition, they have igniters. CDI is capacitive discharge ignition, something used mostly on old two-strokes.

[tejasmud]

Nick, I HIGHLY recommend, if you are changing the ignition system, that you just get a complete Dyna 2000 system for it. It has a built in rev limiter that is adjustable & has a built in start retard also so you can use the billet ignition rotor. Ray.

Ray,

Sort of same topic, I know Nick's question is in regards to a 1100ESD and "Rev limiter," The Dyna 2000 was my thought as well.

After, I have been looking/thinking about the Dyna 2000 for the 700.

but would a Dyna 2000 work on a 700?

Some built in curves, but programable if I remember for advance and retard, and rev limiter.

If it would work, and you still support them, I would give you a call.

Eric

[onequickray]

Dyna limiters and igntion systems

Hi everyone.

I see on Dyna's website that they have boxes for CDI ignitions and Induction ignitions. My bike has a CDI box, but I don't know if it's necessarily CDI ignition. Here are the different things I found....

Here's the NON-CDI schematic of their new version the "dyna 300"

http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/downloads/instruct/DRL300.pdf

Here's the CDI schematic of their new version the "dyna 300"

http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/downloads/instruct/DRL300CDI.pdf

DYNA DRL-300 Standard Rev Limiter:
The DRL300 has an improved clamping capability, and more outputs than the DRL200. The DRL200 could clamp only 2 of our green (higher impedance) coils. The DRL300 can clamp up to 4 of our blue (low impedance) coils. This means it can be used on drag bikes, and many other applications it could not manage before (automotive HEI ignitions). In addition, the output stage has also added a separate kill input. This input works separate of the rev limiter and can function even when the rev limiter has no power. This will kill the spark whenever a 12V signal is applied to the input.

Potential uses include shift kill to kill ignitions during upshift, allowing for clutchless shifts. Instead of having to cut jumper wires to get the box to work with a particular application, and having only two choices, there are now 3 dip switches. These dip switches allow not only for a very wide range of applications (single fire thumpers to Harleys to inline 4s to 8 cylinders), but they also allow for the rev range to be adjusted from the standard 6000-12000. This means that new motorcycles with 12000+ rpm redlines can now be handled, as can applications where the limit needs to be set below 6000.
DRL-300 Features::
Continuously adjustable from 6,000 to 12,000 rpm Helps prevent engine failure
Prewired and easy to install

Do you know which one I would need for the 83 1100ESD; CDI or Non-CDI?


Thanks,
--
Nick

Hi Nick,

The system you need is the DRL-300 standard for the GS1100ESD. The ignition you have is definately an inductive type/ "flyback" or whatever they called it in the link someone left at the Kawasaki site.
Unfortunately, we do not make a direct "plug and play" Dyna 2k4c system for the newer "small engines" after the "mechanical advancer" went by the wayside, GS550, 650, your 700 and 750cc versions,.

Well, the 1150 1984-86 and any application that used the 3.665" x 3 bolt mounted plate assembly, be it the GS750 in 1977 to the 1985 GS1100G 2 valve "shaftie" engine, as well as the GS1100 from 80 to 83, the standard #DDK3-2, DDK3-2C, (w/ coils), or the Dyna "S" system for use with the mechanical advancer will work in these applications. (note the mechanical advancer for the 2 valve engine is different than the 4 valve engine in the amount of advance you get, the 2 valve being more aggressive because it is needed, 38-40 degrees verses on 34-35degrees in the 4 vlv.)
There are, however, many who have engineered application fitment much more complicated than what you are talking about should you want/ need an ignition system for the smaller "Zooks". Answers to additional questions are available right on the web site, www.dynaonline.com at the "FAQ" section, or email us at tech@dynaonline.com. Of course, you could PM me as well, or email me at raymond@dynaonline.com .
I hope I didn't ramble too much!
Raymond

[rapidray]

I'll bet money the 2000 will work on a 700 with the 1100 mechanical advancer on it. Need to see if the 1100 advancer will bolt to the 700 crank. If it will, it is a go! Ray.

[Kris V]

OneQuickRay knows his stuff due to the fact he is the DYNA answer man at the company.


I hope I didn't ramble too much!

BLAH,BLAH,BLAH that`s if I can get through all of the calls.

[chef1366]

Raymond on the GSR.
Kool!!!

[isleoman]

Nick, I HIGHLY recommend, if you are changing the ignition system, that you just get a complete Dyna 2000 system for it. It has a built in rev limiter that is adjustable & has a built in start retard also so you can use the billet ignition rotor. Ray.

Ray, Does the start retard feature on the Dyna 2000 prevent starter clutch kick back?

[rapidray]

No, but it helps a lot & reduces it to very infrequent occurances. Ray.

[isleoman]

Ray, thanks for the input. Mine has been pretty infrequent since putting in a new starter clutch a couple years ago. I'll have to give the Dyna retard a try, would like to get it close to zero.

If my bike doesn't fire immediately I let it sit for a second then try again. The kick back usually happens if I try to crank it over for too long when its slow to catch. .

[rapidray]

If you wire the starter button "Hot" so you can spin the motor with the key off & then turn the key on after the motor is spinning, it will almost eliminate kick back that way too. Ray.

[posplayr]

If you wire the starter button "Hot" so you can spin the motor with the key off & then turn the key on after the motor is spinning, it will almost eliminate kick back that way too. Ray.

Option #2

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=123877