1100 ES going 1428
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IngvarB -
miket
front forks
Did you have to trim fairing to fit front forks as far as the width?What bike are rotors and calipers from?Comment
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Awesome !! Those GSXR heads with a few easy mods really wake up the GS motor.
Have you done a compression test yet?1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82Comment
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Flo
Hi Ingvar,
did you just plug all oil cooling ports in the GSXR head? Does it work like that? I would be worried of not getting the heat out, but maybe I worry too much...
Greets
FloComment
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IngvarB
Just remove the internal oil cooling stuff and plug the return passages. The oil will return via cam chain tunnel. I have no cooling problems not even with the 1428 12,5:1 configuration. I use a 48 plate Mesa Cool oil cooler and a thermostat. The thermostat does not open full very often. For road racing the cooling for sure will be an issue but for street use there is no problem.
The fairing has not to be trimmed when using the -89 GSXR fork. The calipers are -00 Busa and the rotors are special made for me by ISR to fit my Yamaha FZR front wheel and Suzuki fork.
I put it on the dyno a couple of weeks ago, 174@10000 (RWHP), running rich. The power curve was still rising when hitting the rev-limiter, so there would probably be a couple of more hp if I dare to go higher than 10000rpm. I use these pistons, http://www.wiseco.com/ProductDetail....983&AppID=7729 and running 1,0mm squish. Anyone knows if it is safe to rev over 10000rpm.
On the same occasion there was two Blackbirds with slip-on and PowerCommander delivering ~138rwhp and one R1 -00 delivering ~140rwhp, so older is better:-)
/IngvarLast edited by Guest; 05-05-2010, 09:45 AM.Comment
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Those rods will go 11,000 rpm no problem. I do engines with the 493 rods that see 12,000 rpm without problems. What did you set the piston to deck height at & how thick is your head gasket? Most big GS copper head gaskets are .043 in thickness. This is due to the fact that at high rpm, when all the play is removed from the bearings & allowing rod stretch, that amount USUALLY maxes out at .040 & leaves an extra .003 piston to head clearance at full stretch. This is all assuming that you are using a .000 piston to deck height. If the piston is say .005-.010 DOWN in the hole, you have even more clearance & safety margin. Ray.Comment
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Guest
Awesome...those guys were probably stunned at seeing your dyno numbers!I put it on the dyno a couple of weeks ago, 174@10000 (RWHP), running rich. The power curve was still rising when hitting the rev-limiter, so there would probably be a couple of more hp if I dare to go higher than 10000rpm.
On the same occasion there was two Blackbirds with slip-on and PowerCommander delivering ~138rwhp and one R1 -00 delivering ~140rwhp, so older is better:-)
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IngvarB
Thanks for the information.Those rods will go 11,000 rpm no problem. I do engines with the 493 rods that see 12,000 rpm without problems. What did you set the piston to deck height at & how thick is your head gasket? Most big GS copper head gaskets are .043 in thickness. This is due to the fact that at high rpm, when all the play is removed from the bearings & allowing rod stretch, that amount USUALLY maxes out at .040 & leaves an extra .003 piston to head clearance at full stretch. This is all assuming that you are using a .000 piston to deck height. If the piston is say .005-.010 DOWN in the hole, you have even more clearance & safety margin. Ray.
I use a Cometic GSXR 83mm steel shim head gasket. The deck heigh + head gaskets is what I call ?squish?. I have adjusted the squish i.e. piston to head clearance, to 1,0 - 1,1mm (0,0392" - 0,0431"), differs a little between the cylinders. The squish was carefully measured with fully torqued head bolts and adjusted with different base gaskets.
So you think raising the rev-limiter to 11000 would be a safe operation?
/IngvarComment
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IngvarB
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IngvarB
Best time so far this year
The 2010 season is soon ended here in Sweden. It is just one race-occasion left. My best time (so far) this year below. I'm running the bike with exactly the same setup as in the street, not lowered, touring gearing 17/42 etc so I?m quite satisfied. The risk to lose the red-light racing when commuting is minimal
Now it's time to plan the modifications for next year.
Cheers
Ingvar
/Ingvar


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BadBillyB
Finally, a time slip I do not understand....Uhm....60 footer looks kind of slow....Nice picture though...sweet looking bike...BillyComment
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IngvarB
Does not everyone know Swedish?
For those who don't:
Reaction 0,1579 sec
60-fot 1,6842 sec
1/8 mile 6,3826 sec, speed 119,04 mph
? mile 9,7586 sec, speed 143,33 mph
The 60 footer I have to work on. I do not race very often so I guess it can be lowered quite a bit even with my bike. Should it be possible to reach 1,5 sec ?
The bike is not a race bike, it's a street bike also used for weekend trips and commuting.
/IngvarComment
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BadBillyB
OK, makes sense now, that 1/4 mile trap speed is very impressive for a street bike. Good indicator that you are making some good horse power. Very nice, dont get to work too quickly now, they'll think your too overzealous....BillyComment
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