Installing a Dyna S - Timing

[Calvin Blackmore]

Read my easy to follow tutorial on the first page of this thread.
A degree wheel is your friend.

so tell us is degreeing cams a worthwhile thing to do on any bike?
i recall a joe minton articls from ages ago
and a naty vnce and hnes video that came with their degreeing wheel

[Guest]

I degreed my cams in. You can choose whether you want top end/middle/bottom. It's your choice.
It's not that hard to do.
Degree wheel
Dial indicator
Spark plug stop to find TDC
I put the degree wheel on the ignition side, use the stator rotor bolt to turn the motor and the dial indicator on the side of the stator.

[salty_monk]

Hmmm I have an even flashier model by that brand... so I guess mine won't work either.

What's the reasoning Ray? I would have thought that as long as you use inductive pickup from the spark plug wire then it should be no problem (unless there is too much "noise" from the other plug?)

I have statically timed mine using the advance marks so the light "just" comes on. If I keep moving the engine round the light comes on just before the initial gets to the line (a couple mm max so can't be a lot).

Dyna says to use the advance marks though... (not 100% sure the reasoning for that... maybe to make sure total advance is correct as that is the most important one..)

Anyone tried tuning by ear? Run it up a steep hill & listen for pinking....?

[gearhead13]

Well me likey the Dyna S, went for a ride today and the front wheel got really light part way through second, I dont even think I had it wide open.
I am not sure if my gearing is close to a stock 1100, because I am running the 750's 18 inch rear wheel with 16/49 sprocket sizes. I might be geared a little taller than stock, I dont know.

[Guest]

Well me likey the Dyna S, went for a ride today and the front wheel got really light part way through second, I dont even think I had it wide open.
I am not sure if my gearing is close to a stock 1100, because I am running the 750's 18 inch rear wheel with 16/49 sprocket sizes. I might be geared a little taller than stock, I dont know.

Did you time the 2&3 32 degrees full advance and check the mark on the 1&4?

[gearhead13]

Did you time the 2&3 32 degrees full advance and check the mark on the 1&4?

I timed 1&4 first, then checked 2&3, had to adjust 2&3 a little.

[Guest]

I timed 1&4 first, then checked 2&3, had to adjust 2&3 a little.

Just curious how did you get the mark for the 2&3?

[gearhead13]

Just curious how did you get the mark for the 2&3?

I used my calipers to measure it on the 1-4 side and transferred it to the 2-3 side. I used a dab of paint to mark the spot.

[salty_monk]

Well I fitted it statically timed in the full advance position.... Not ridden it yet but have synced it & it's running fine.

My timing light would read an accurate RPM (has an LCD display that shows Volts, RPM etc) from the pickup but it wouldn't give me a light so I think it's likely that the light itself is faulty....

Think I'm going to work out how much the marks have to move to = 1 degree of extra advance by measuring (measure the diameter at the marks & the use Pi x D to get the circumference, then divide that by 360, will that work?? - now I've written this down I'm not so sure at all, think this is rubbish but will leave it in here to be knocked down in flames....) & then I will take it out & play with it, maybe advance it a degree or half a degree & try it (up a hill so under load) if I get a chance.

Anyone how much rotation (movement at the screws) is 1 degree on these?

[gearhead13]

Well I fitted it statically timed in the full advance position.... Not ridden it yet but have synced it & it's running fine.

My timing light would read an accurate RPM (has an LCD display that shows Volts, RPM etc) from the pickup but it wouldn't give me a light so I think it's likely that the light itself is faulty....

Think I'm going to work out how much the marks have to move to = 1 degree of extra advance by measuring (measure the diameter at the marks & the use Pi x D to get the circumference, then divide that by 360, will that work?? - now I've written this down I'm not so sure at all, think this is rubbish but will leave it in here to be knocked down in flames....) & then I will take it out & play with it, maybe advance it a degree or half a degree & try it (up a hill so under load) if I get a chance.

Anyone how much rotation (movement at the screws) is 1 degree on these?

My idea would be to measure between the t and f marks and divide that by 12 for 12 degrees advance, that would give you an amount for each degree.

[salty_monk]

I thought mine only had two marks on there but I'll have to take another look.
They were the same for 1-4 and 2-3...
Hope I timed it up to the right ones.
Ran ok in the garage....

[Guest]

I thought mine only had two marks on there but I'll have to take another look.
They were the same for 1-4 and 2-3...
Hope I timed it up to the right ones.
Ran ok in the garage....

You sure you didn't only have a TDC mark for 2&3?

[salty_monk]

Nope pretty sure it had 2 marks for both... Will check later today

[salty_monk]

3 marks for both... T, F then a 3rd line to the right of that which is the one I used for full advance.






Dan

[gearhead13]

3 marks for both... T, F then a 3rd line to the right of that which is the one I used for full advance.
Dan

What bike is this that has all three marks on the 2-3 side? Mine only has the T mark on that side.