Need the BIG bore guru's

[trippivot]

great engines are created by very few people.

Why is it that every person who decides to build a bad ass GS1000 2V motor either lives in Australia or Canada....I have all the goodies here in sunny Florida and want to let them go for cheap. I quit drag racing in 1991 and cant stand to see all these nice parts collect dust. I have....
APE Big block (probably only one of ten ever built)
Chromoly case studs
Chromoly cylinder studs
Big port head, fully ported for high velocity, with
40mm titanium intake valves (Vance & Hines Racing)
33mm titanium exhaust valves, also VHR
Oversize seats courtesy of Star Racing (serdi valve job)
Titanium retainers
Shim under buckets (MTC)
Forged (not billet) MTC clutch basket w/straight cut gear (no wear at all)
w/all necessary parts to fit GS 2V motor
1-2-3 Automatic overriding transmission prepped by MRE

ETC........Would like to see one person take it all....The cylinder head alone is worth over 3 thousand dollars.... Just to stay on topic, In my opinion, the best set up for the crankshaft would be to use the GS1000 crank (64.8 mm) with the longer GS1100 rods......The reason I quit racing was breaking 2 crankshafts back to back. Both were 1100 cranks prepped by Falicon at the tune of $1600....Something about the bearing spacing on cylinder #2 caused the crank throw to come apart......This was a 1260cc motor N/A that ran 8.30's in the 1/4 mile.....MPH's were 155 to 156......Never broke anything before (except for a stock clutch basket) putting the GS1100 crankshaft in it....Hundreds of passes.....The GK motor (crank & block) I really dont have experience with, I only used the cylinder head ..........Billy

AMEN I had thousands of dollars of performance parts and all I got was pennies on the dollar for them. no more 2V 1000 for me, they are too fragile to put thousands of dollars into anymore.


After spending tens of thousands of dollars
I have a recipe for a 1105 cc engine producing 160 hp and able to live for thousands of miles...$3000 budget approx.

I also have a combination for a 1240 making 200+ hp - no nitrous , sadly under 30 full horse power minutes life span.$5000 U.S.D. budget

tried and true blueprint design specs for a GS1000 might be a good selling book, but I suspect proper instructions will not followed to the letter. 1 machinist does this, another machinist does that, the assembler does it "his way". and the engine owner gets jipped

My take on this thread is too many chefs' spoil a stew. What I mean is too many builders philosophies mix matching do not produce results, they produce scattered engines.

oil on the rear wheel at 100 mph is a little distressing.

[Guest]

If you wind up getting that block from Billy and building your bike, post some photos. I would love to see it.

[trippivot]

Start with your head.

use that shaft drive cylinder head. concentrate on the head as a masterpiece more so than the actual displacement and other details first. Spend a lot of effort to get the best head, even if you go through a half dozen of them. It will be worth it.

40mm intake concentrate on a DEEP deep 60 degree cut way before you get to enlarging the first 0.500" of the aluminum just under the valve seat.

and 33mm exhaust will flow great and leave plenty of material to hold the seats in also not to crack to the plug or to the other seat

low valve lift head flow - and improvements there are so much more important than max lift flow and total flow. I'm not saying max flow is not important to achieve your goal- it is.

what I mean is if assuming everything is the same on a hypethetical engine

#1 head flows 35cfm at 0.100" and maxes out at 108cfm at 0.430".
#2 head flows 20cfm at 0.100" and maxes out at 120 at 0.430"

won't matter about displacement cam timing valve size because #1 is going to faster in most all situations except for very extended top gear top rev runs over multiple minutes W.O.T., no matter what the displacement of this hyp. eng.. (a valid exception is total vehicle weight)

if you're going from 4K rpm to 8K maybe over 10K and back over and over up and down the rev range. low lift valve / port flow is the key to unlocking massive gains from smaller engines without unnecessary stress and heat. ya know the usual trade off is friction- not on this specific topic, FREE POWER!

this simple theory is why a 16 valve engine is crazy fast compared to a 8 valve.

the 2 little valves flow a lot more just as the valves come off of their seats faster in, then faster out, equals faster piston acelleration. I don't need to tell you each one of your pistons COAST 3/4 of the time the engine is running. And a small light piston drags less than a big heavy one. Granted a big piston on a long stroke pushes harder not faster. ( torque-vs H.P battle of the ages)

yamaha went too far with Genesis 3 intakes 2 exhaust
honda and ford use the heck out of 2 intakes and 1 exh.

[Flyboy]

Thanks guys, this is really interesting stuff, please keep it coming, I am facinated by the knowlege.
When I am done with the 1000G rebuild, I want to tackle a build on a silly fast 8v, maybe a 1000S or 1000E, pretty pointless on a shaft I would imagine.

[ozman]

If you wind up getting that block from Billy and building your bike, post some photos. I would love to see it.

still waiting for contact with billy his parts interest me, ill be sure keep you posted if project goes ahead
oz

[BadBillyB]

still waiting for contact with billy his parts interest me, ill be sure keep you posted if project goes ahead
oz

PM sent, working on pics.......The block still looks like new......Billy

[BadBillyB]

Forgot to mention, the sleeves are so thick in this APE block, it will easily go 1300cc (80mm).........Billy

[ozman]

thx billy pm replied to