Mods For 130hp From 82 GS1100E?

[Anonymous]

My bike chews these things up at a rate of at least one chain every year and front sprocket every 2. The rear still looks good. Is this nomal? What chain/sprocket combo should I run on this old beast?

Normal? Depends on how much you ride in a year. A good quality O-ring chain should last 15,000+ miles if well cared for. A set of steel sprockets should last two chains if the chain is changed before it is so stretched out it begins to really eat the sprockets. An aluminum sprocket (rear, that is) will likely only last the same as one chain. It is best to change both sprockets and chain at the same time for the optimal wear/life of the chain, but it is not absolutely necessary. You can run the stock 630 or 530 or 520 and all will be fine. If long life is important, the stock size is best, then the 530, then the 520, but it shouldn't be a major difference between them. If performance is most important, use the 520.


Mark

[Guest]

I would go with a 530 conversion with a ratio of 15/42 which is stock 1100 gearing.
check your alignment...you may be chewing up chains and sprogs because of a misaligned chain... they should last far longer than one year.

katman

[Hoomgar]

Thanks guys. I think I will do just that and go with the mid 530 and a 15/42 combo. I want a balance of performance and wear so that sounds good. When I droped to 14t in the front I did gain some snot out of the hole but I feel that after the rebuild I am not going to need this and can get my cruising comforts back a bit.

The bike dyno'd at 63 hp before we tore it down. Sad, very sad. I can't wait to see what it does when it is done.

[Anonymous]

Hey Guys
Please help with with some info. How much horsepower does an 1981 GS1100E have in stock trim. I do plan on putting a HC piston kit to run on pump fuel, carbs with K&N's, cams and a pipe' How much HP can I expect at the wheal. Can anyone sugest what type or model of components I will need to get some good gains.
Thanks for the help!
Archie

[robinjo]

Hey Guys
Please help with with some info. How much horsepower does an 1981 GS1100E have in stock trim. I do plan on putting a HC piston kit to run on pump fuel, carbs with K&N's, cams and a pipe' How much HP can I expect at the wheel. Can anyone sugest what type or model of components I will need to get some good gains.
Thanks for the help!
Archie

I had my '81 Katana 1100 dyno'd 2 months ago and it had a little over 87 HP at the rearwheel using 107.5 main jets that where in there instead of the recommended 112.5's for the European model so yours should be putting out about that amount if it's in good condition.

[Hap Call]

Here a link to instructions on how to check alignment:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/viewtopic.php?t=11708

Hap

[Anonymous]

Hello Robin
Thanks for your reply, the information you have provided is very benifitial for my build up.
Regards, Archie

[rosco15]

My bike with stock pistons, stock head, stock cams made 113 Hp and 75 foot pounds of torque. I do have a pro drag race only pipe, 36 mikuni flat slides, and a dyna msd ignition. When I put in a low compression 1166 wiseco kit and kept the stock unported head and cams I got 128 Hp and the torque was around 80 something. I degreed the stock cams to 110/110 but haven't run it on the dyno again. I picked up about 2 tenths so I think I'm probably over 130 Hp. I'm looking for reliability and ease of maintenance.

Ryan

https://www.rccracing.com

[Anonymous]

My bike with stock pistons, stock head, stock cams made 113 Hp and 75 foot pounds of torque. I do have a pro drag race only pipe, 36 mikuni flat slides, and a dyna msd ignition. When I put in a low compression 1166 wiseco kit and kept the stock unported head and cams I got 128 Hp and the torque was around 80 something. I degreed the stock cams to 110/110 but haven't run it on the dyno again. I picked up about 2 tenths so I think I'm probably over 130 Hp. I'm looking for reliability and ease of maintenance.

Ryan
www.rccracing.com

Very nice web site. I like how you have info on your HPand times posted on it. But the exhaust system on your 1100 is as ugly as all get out .

[rosco15]

I agree, but like you say Quiet exhausts kill((horsepower)). The site is a work in progress.

Ryan

https://www.rccracing.com

[Anonymous]

I agree, but like you say Quiet exhausts kill((horsepower)). The site is a work in progress.

I have to disagree with this. Look at the current GSXR1000. It is making around 153rwhp (from only 1000cc at that) and it is as quiet as your neighbour's Taurus. It is easier to make power that is loud, but it is not an absolute requirement. Power is made by having proper length head pipes (which virtually ALL aftermarket systems do poorly at) and matching everything properly to your engine (pipe diameters, lengths, carb size, cam timing, etc). Most aftermarket pipes simply make a bit more than stock because they remove a small amount of restriction from the system. The best system you can get is a 4-1 (for four cylinder engines, of course) using short headpipes and a megaphone with revese cone to keep the powerband wide. Anything else is second best.

Boy, don't get me started on the exhaust thing...


Mark

[robinjo]

I agree, but like you say Quiet exhausts kill((horsepower)). The site is a work in progress.

I have to disagree with this. Look at the current GSXR1000. It is making around 153rwhp (from only 1000cc at that) and it is as quiet as your neighbour's Taurus. It is easier to make power that is loud, but it is not an absolute requirement. Power is made by having proper length head pipes (which virtually ALL aftermarket systems do poorly at) and matching everything properly to your engine (pipe diameters, lengths, carb size, cam timing, etc). Most aftermarket pipes simply make a bit more than stock because they remove a small amount of restriction from the system. The best system you can get is a 4-1 (for four cylinder engines, of course) using short headpipes and a megaphone with revese cone to keep the powerband wide. Anything else is second best.

boy, don't get me started on the exhaust thing...


Mark

but I want to...why not :twisted:

[Dink]

I agree, but like you say Quiet exhausts kill((horsepower)). The site is a work in progress.

I have to disagree with this. Look at the current GSXR1000. It is making around 153rwhp (from only 1000cc at that) and it is as quiet as your neighbour's Taurus. It is easier to make power that is loud, but it is not an absolute requirement. Power is made by having proper length head pipes (which virtually ALL aftermarket systems do poorly at) and matching everything properly to your engine (pipe diameters, lengths, carb size, cam timing, etc). Most aftermarket pipes simply make a bit more than stock because they remove a small amount of restriction from the system. The best system you can get is a 4-1 (for four cylinder engines, of course) using short headpipes and a megaphone with revese cone to keep the powerband wide. Anything else is second best.

Boy, don't get me started on the exhaust thing...


Mark

Mark SOME of what you say is true, the bit in bold is rubbish!!! long pipes make torquey wide powerband motors short pipes are all topend.
Dink

[Anonymous]

I agree, but like you say Quiet exhausts kill((horsepower)). The site is a work in progress.

Ryan
www.rccracing.com

Ryan
Thats why I have the exact same pipe on mine and tuned to run without a baffel


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And a note for the other gent.
Liquid cooled engines can deliver more HP on the closer tolerances alone. And you might be shocked at the exhust experience that is found in our group. Talk please and dont be so braggy about how much you know.


this face is not needed to talk actual facts about specs. Most of us do not buy HP from the factory.
That pipe requires much more than a bolt on and will acomodate a tremendous amount of engine mods when the pots etc. are tuned.

[Anonymous]

Mark SOME of what you say is true, the bit in bold is rubbish!!! long pipes make torquey wide powerband motors short pipes are all topend.

You are correct about short pipes tuning to a higher rpm and longer pipes tuning to a lower rpm. The point you are missing is that either way, the pipe length tunes only for a narrow rpm range and it is wrong for every other one. Long pipes hurt top end because they are simply too long to resonate properly at higher revs. Note I mentioned using a megaphone after the short head pipes. This is what makes the short pipes work. The short head pipe tunes for a high rpm and then the meg draws out the suction pulse to keep the mid range power good. If you make your meg about 85%-100% as long as the head pipes, then the overall system length will also resonate at half the peak rpm, also helping out the mid range.

For anyone who is doubting the use of a meg (since most current systems are canister style), just look at F1 engines. They have total freedom to run any exhaust arrangement they want and they still run 5-1 systems with a meg on the end. And the Honda RCV211 was running megs by the end of this season, in their quest to outrun the Ducati (which also looked to have megs hidden in the system). The drag racers do it right, with short headers and an unmuffled meg.

Talk please and dont be so braggy about how much you know.

I was not trying to brag and I didn't want to offend anyone. Exhaust design is an incredibly complicated art/science and what I know is a tiny fraction of what is out there. But I wanted to point out that power and noise are NOT necessarily linked and that most aftermarket exhaust systems are actually pretty poorly designed, with unequal length head pipes and are not well matched to the engines they are sold for. That's all.


Mark (smiling, and not taking this too seriously)