Single Brake Line instead of Two?

[Redneck]

Was not sure where to put this but since this is mods and I might be doing that I figured its the place to be.

My 79 GS550L is a single rotor front end but my line is two part. Why?

http://www.cyclepartsnation.com/pages/OemParts?aribrand=SUZ#/Suzuki/GS550L_(1979)/BRAKE_HOSE/02650001/5602650046

My thought was one continuous line from master cyclinder to caliper using the home made brake lines from Nessim's guide http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=114521.

This would make bleeding the brakes much easier.

Advice from those who know is greatly appreciated, good humor from those who don't will be accepted.

Paul

[razor02097]

My guess is they did that for 2 reasons... #1 one less brake line part to make. This way they make 2 different brake lines they can use on all bikes instead of a master line, and 2 caliper lines for duel disk and a whole different propriatary line for single disk. #2 is the manifold between the forks provides a solid mounting point so the suspension can cycle without rubbing. If you had a single line when the suspension cycled the brake line would rub on stuff making for a potential failure.

[salty_monk]

Go for it. As stated above you just need to figure a good way to anchor it "mid line". I just use cable ties personally.

[Redneck]

I was thinking one of these in the general vicinity of where the coupler is right now.



I would prefer the one that comes back around so the bolt goes through both ends. As long as I allow for the same amount of slack as I have with the OEM lines and maybe put a piece of rubber between the clamp and the stainless braid it should work fine.

Paul

[koolaid_kid]

Redneck, fuel line works great for the rubber piece. Just find one with the correct inside diameter, split it and insert the line. Then zip tie it to make sure the line does not come out and you are gtg. Did that a few years ago on the GS and it works great.

[Redneck]

Sounds like a plan K_K.

Now for the stunner don't you hate when you just didn't read far enough into an article, only to later find out that if you had your question would have been answered.

"Adapters is the wrong word - should have been "olive" or ferrel. You don't actually need to purchase these seperate since they come with the end fittings. Also, you might want to get the crush washers from a dealer if you need them (mine looked smooth and clean so I just reused them). The crush washers that Earl's sells are a little small so you will have to open them up with a file which doesn't sound too cool to me.

A couple of weeks ago I built a line for you '81 550 with Daytona bars (lower than stock). The stock line is two pieces with a junction attached to the lower triple clamp. I took off the junction and made a one piece line.

I bought one adjustable fitting (allows you to twist it into any position) and one non-adjustable. Attached the non-adjustable fully, crimped it down, but left the adjustable one finger tight when I put the line on the bike (toward the caliper end). After getting the line attached solidly at the master cylinder, I attached the line to the caliper and before really cranking down hard on it, I tightened down on the adjustable fitting to crimp it tight. Worked like a champ. Cost me $40 even - including crush washers I didn't use."- Ed aka Nessism

Dooh

Paul

[koolaid_kid]

As stated previously, with a accountant viewpoint, the junction was for cost savings. It is cheaper to manufacture and stock 2 different junctions and the same two lines for both (M/C to junction and junction to each caliper) than it is to stock one junction and three separate lines. Brake lines are far more expensive to produce and increase inventory costs. On a single rotor bike, the junction is not needed but could still be used.
On a different slant, many double rotor owners that install SS brake lines use 2 long lines all the way from the M/C, one to each caliper, and remove the factory junction. Works the same. I chose to retain the stock configuration simply b/c I want the bike to appear 100% stock. There is no performance difference.

[verde]

I would prefer the one that comes back around so the bolt goes through both ends. As long as I allow for the same amount of slack as I have with the OEM lines and maybe put a piece of rubber between the clamp and the stainless braid it should work fine.

They have those that come with rubber already. "Cable clamps." Find 'em at autoparts store or in some of the house wiring sections of home improvment stores(but don't expect the guy working there to have a clue of where they are if they stock them).

[Redneck]

Verde those are exactly what I was looking for. I knew they existed but was having a time finding them.

Paul

[verde]

Yeah, they are supper handy for routing cables and wires. License plate mount is my favorite impromptu use of them so far though

[brslk]

verde, you got a build thread for that bike?

Bruce.

[7981GS]

They have those that come with rubber already. "Cable clamps." Find 'em at autoparts store or in some of the house wiring sections of home improvment stores(but don't expect the guy working there to have a clue of where they are if they stock them).

We call them "P" clamps.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#p-clamps/=fwtick

Daniel

[GateKeeper]

verde, you got a build thread for that bike?

Bruce.

I think your looking for this build - http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170821

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