New RS38's, what main jet to start?

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  • gearhead13
    • Jan 2026

    #1

    New RS38's, what main jet to start?

    What size of main jet should I start with for my RS38's? I put in 140's, they had 152.5's when I got them, I dont know what kind of bike they were used on.
  • 7981GS

    #2
    In your 1300+ cc engine?
    Mikuni jet size of 145-155 would be a good starting point I would think.
    Hopped-up 1100's (1168's, etc.) typically use 142.5's and up.

    Eric







    Of course, after no one else answered your question and I did, now the rest of the crew will correct me.

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    • Guest

      #3
      I have a 1327...track 160, street with baffle is 155...

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      • gearhead13

        #4
        Originally posted by bellucci
        I have a 1327...track 160, street with baffle is 155...
        Ok, I guess I am putting the 152's back in.
        What size pilot jets do you run?

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        • gearhead13

          #5
          Installed the carbs today, runs ok for not being synced yet, one float leaked and the A/P wasnt working so I have the bowls soaking in carb cleaner. Some blockage in the A/P bowl passages. Hopefully get them reinstalled and synced tomorrow.

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          • Guest

            #6
            Originally posted by gearhead13
            Installed the carbs today, runs ok for not being synced yet, one float leaked and the A/P wasnt working so I have the bowls soaking in carb cleaner. Some blockage in the A/P bowl passages. Hopefully get them reinstalled and synced tomorrow.
            Your bike is going to be a madman

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            • gearhead13

              #7
              Originally posted by chef1366
              Your bike is going to be a madman
              Me, or the bike? LOL
              Some yoyo PO mixed up the #2 and #3 bowls. The #2 has the passages for the A/P.

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              • Guest

                #8
                Originally posted by gearhead13
                Me, or the bike? LOL
                Some yoyo PO mixed up the #2 and #3 bowls. The #2 has the passages for the A/P.
                You have to be one to ride it.

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                • gearhead13

                  #9
                  Got it together tonight and went for a ride, carbs are so out of sync, sounds like its cammed to the moon
                  Lots of jump, seeing about 12-13 A/F at cruise but 14-15 when I give it throttle so tomorrow I'm going to raise the needles 2 notches and sync it.
                  I didn't want to wind it out because of the lean a/f.
                  And YAY, looks like all my oil leaks are fixed, although I won't know for sure until tomorrow.

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                  • gearhead13

                    #10
                    Started with 150's went to 140's and now 135's and it still splutters under full throttle. a/p almost completely disabled. Seeing below 10 a/f under full throttle. I set the floats to 17mm, maybe a touch under 17. I guess I will try some 130's

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                    • Guest

                      #11
                      Originally posted by gearhead13
                      Started with 150's went to 140's and now 135's and it still splutters under full throttle. a/p almost completely disabled. Seeing below 10 a/f under full throttle. I set the floats to 17mm, maybe a touch under 17. I guess I will try some 130's
                      Could the pump be too rich?

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                      • gearhead13

                        #12
                        Originally posted by chef1366
                        Could the pump be too rich?
                        The pump is disabled
                        I put the 130's in it tonight and I am going for a ride tomorrow. They better work, cause those are the smallest mains I have I might take them apart and recheck my float level, set it at 18 mm maybe.

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                        • Spot1000Kat

                          #13
                          Silly question , but do you have a dual outlet fuel tap?

                          My 1166 was starving at full throttle on my kat, so I tapped and threaded in a 3/16" hose tail opposite the existing one which is easy on the katana taps and whallah!, a dual flow tap , no more fuel starving, and fixed the lean breakdown at full throttle. If you look at the front of the tap opposite the existing outlet you'll see a perfect location which lines up on prime and shuts off when the tap is off. I'll post some pics hopefully this weekend if I get a chance.

                          Or fit a Pingel dual flow tap.
                          Last edited by Guest; 06-27-2012, 06:08 PM.

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                          • gearhead13

                            #14
                            Originally posted by Spot1000Kat
                            Silly question , but do you have a dual outlet fuel tap?

                            My 1166 was starving at full throttle on my kat, so I tapped and threaded in a 3/16" hose tail opposite the existing one which is easy on the katana taps and whallah!, a dual flow tap , no more fuel starving, and fixed the lean breakdown at full throttle. If you look at the front of the tap opposite the existing outlet you'll see a perfect location which lines up on prime and shuts off when the tap is off. I'll post some pics hopefully this weekend if I get a chance.

                            Or fit a Pingel dual flow tap.
                            Well, that could be. I am at a loss as to whats going on. I just have a T fitting on the stock petcock. When I turn it on prime all the fuel goes into one inlet, the T has to be exactly level for it to flow evenly. Maybe if I put the T up close to the petcock instead of down near the carbs. So, I would imagine that cylinders 3&4 would run out of fuel first. But doesnt explain the under 10-1 a/f ratio I am seeing. And it not like it runs wide open ok for a bit then stumbles, as soon as I open it up it, it splutters.

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                            • Billy Ricks

                              #15
                              130 or 135 mains is what Mikuni calls for. They call for 140s in a full race prepped bike.

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