GS1000G mods- big bore and fuel injection

[GS1000G Shopper]

I've been in a holding pattern waiting for o-rings for the injectors. The ones I measured were slightly too large, so I've re-ordered some 7.8mm x 1.9mm ones and updated the thread where I linked them.

I noticed a slight oil leak at the front of the cylinders between the head and the cylinders and re-torqued the head today. I hope that will stop the leak.

Yesterday I ordered a pair of the small 24-2 trigger wheels. It should take about 11 days to get them. I'll post pics and results once they arrive.

UPDATE
I pulled the front (2-3) pickup and wiring from the shielded cable, plugged the Weatherpcak connector holes where it had been, and ran a ground wire to the cable shield.

[GS1000G Shopper]

The throttle bodies have been reinstalled. The fuel pump is now acting weird, it ran and then slowed down, the gauge was slow to come up, and then it pegged, so I unplugged the fuel pump and cranked the bike relieve pressure. No fuel leaks so far.

I reinstalled the advance unit the right way and set the MS software as "basic trigger" with 17 degrees. Got a few sputters and a backfire, so timing is closer. Also tried 0, 10, and 25 degrees with no results. The trigger wheel is due here by the end of the month.

[AJ]

Reading about the leaks you had with your fittings... Loctite PST. This stuff will seal threaded parts - even loosely threaded parts - and will stand up very well to gasoline and high pressure oils. You can also disassemble the parts, unlike epoxies (which usually don't handle gasoline too well).

[Steve]

Quite some time ago, you expressed some concern about your wiring size and temperature.

The red harness wire that goes to the ignition switch is too small in my opinion- it was warm when I was holding it. It looks like 18 gauge or so. I'd like to replace it with some high quality automotive wire of 16~14 gauge or so.

I just wanted to point out that if the RED wire is getting warm, then the ORANGE wire that goes from the ignition switch back to the fusebox will also get warm, as it is carrying the same current. If you upgrade your red wire, be sure to also upgrade the orange one.

A better solution, though, would be to add yet ANOTHER relay. Use the fusebox end of the orange wire to trigger the relay, have the output of the relay feed the fusebox.
Simple, somewhat elegant, and removes that large load from the contacts in the ignition switch.

.

[posplayr]

Quite some time ago, you expressed some concern about your wiring size and temperature.

I just wanted to point out that if the RED wire is getting warm, then the ORANGE wire that goes from the ignition switch back to the fusebox will also get warm, as it is carrying the same current. If you upgrade your red wire, be sure to also upgrade the orange one.

A better solution, though, would be to add yet ANOTHER relay. Use the fusebox end of the orange wire to trigger the relay, have the output of the relay feed the fusebox.
Simple, somewhat elegant, and removes that large load from the contacts in the ignition switch.

.

To complete this mod he should definitely get one of those easternbeaver electronic fuseboxes.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1637803&postcount=9

[GS1000G Shopper]

Another fuse panel? LOL, I'll put it in the trunk. I think the heat issue was a poor contact surface when I was checking continuity. I have the bulk of the original wiring powered by the Bussmann fuse panel with new wire. I've been busy dong Microsquirt work but will check the wire again next time I test the Microsquirt. It held up for 30+ years, I doubt it will be an issue. If it had, we'd have probably read about it here as a common malfunction.

The fuel rail fix with fuel line seems like it will be a decent fix. JB Weld has a good track record for repairing gas tanks. I have about 50 PSI on it right now and will let it sit overnight to see how it holds up.

[posplayr]

Another fuse panel? LOL, I'll put it in the trunk. I think the heat issue was a poor contact surface when I was checking continuity. I have the bulk of the original wiring powered by the Bussmann fuse panel with new wire. I've been busy dong Microsquirt work but will check the wire again next time I test the Microsquirt. It held up for 30+ years, I doubt it will be an issue. If it had, we'd have probably read about it here as a common malfunction.

The fuel rail fix with fuel line seems like it will be a decent fix. JB Weld has a good track record for repairing gas tanks. I have about 50 PSI on it right now and will let it sit overnight to see how it holds up.

I went back to your first post. Looks like you maybe a bit beyond the fuse panel upgrade stage.

[Steve]

Have not checked a "bussman fuse panel", but the Eastern Beaver box might be a nice upgrade. I have installed three of them so far, will be doing another one later this summer. I install these as a replacement for the stock fuse panel, not a supplement. A couple of advantages are that there are EIGHT fused outlets in the box. Two of them are "hot" all the time, the other six are switched with the key. One of the "always hot" outlets can be used to run power up to the ignition switch (the stock red wire), then use the orange wire that comes back from the switch to trigger the relay that turns on the rest of the box. The second "always hot" outlet is great for heated clothing or a battery tender. Heated clothing on an "always hot" outlet?? Sure. You are only going to have a short wire feeding the clothing, and when you turn the bike off, you are likely to dismount, forcing a disconnection of the clothing.

.

[GS1000G Shopper]

This will surely offend someone, but those guys are overpriced. Their basic panel with nothing is $60 and has 8 circuits with no internal relay capability- all relays are external, the "short" relay kit is another $30. The Bussmann is $30 and has 20 circuits: 3 - bussed 280 mini relays or 5 - 280 micro relays & 10+ mini fuses. I wired mine so I have a combination of battery (4) and switched (11) circuits.

Advantage Bussmann. You should check it out. I'll re-post the wiring diagram so the detail is available.

[GS1000G Shopper]

In the one step forward and one step back department, I'm not leaking any fuel from the rail or injectors. The drip from the center front of the head is still there after re-torquing the head. It seems to be coming from the area of the 6mm bolt from the block to the head. I suspect the aftermarket gasket that came with the pistons may be the cause, or possibly the head is not flat, will have to see if the machine shop checked it. At any rate, lots more work.

My trigger wheel is due in Friday, but I won't be able to get back to work on the bike til Monday.

[mrl1000l]

I don't think you ever posted a pic of your head gasket, was cam tunnel opening in the gasket flush with the opening in the cylinder block or was the gasket opening a 1/4 inch larger all the way around? I think those after market gaskets are meant to be used with the cam tunnel o-ring, but the 1074 cylinder block doesn't have a groove for that o-ring.

I ordered mine from cometic and specified that the opening for the cam tunnel to be the exact size as the tunnel in the cylinder block, no o-ring.

If it's already noticeably leaking and it's hardly been run, it could be big trouble later.

Looking forward to seeing this mod finished!

[salty_monk]

Assume it's leaking at the joint not travelling up the bolt? Just a thought...

[GS1000G Shopper]

The OEM 1100G head gasket is $94! Ouch. I looked for a Cometic head gasket and it looks like the popular one is for the 16V motors. I did find one (Cometic #8030) at Z1 Enterprises for under $50 that says it is fiber. It shows as fitting both the 1000 and 1100 8V motors.
COC8030

Equivalent to OEM: 11241-49000, 11241-49000-H17, (73.5mm) Head Gasket - 73.5mm - 997cc, 1085cc 1100cc .043" Fiber - 2 Valve -

Fits Suzuki GS1000 (all), GS1100GD/GK2/GKD/GKE/GKZ/GLD/GLZ/GZ/LT/SD (2 valve per cylinder.


$48.23 Ea

The OEM GS1000G gasket is Suzuki #11141-49002 SUPERCEEDED BY 11141-49003, and shows as fitting all 78-81 850G and 1000C/E/G/L/N/S models.

The OEM GS1100G gasket is Suzuki 11141-49400 SUPERCEEDED BY 11141-49410, and shows fitting 82-83 1100G models only.

I ordered mine from cometic and specified that the opening for the cam tunnel to be the exact size as the tunnel in the cylinder block, no o-ring.

I found their site, and when you look up by application, it sends you to another site (Shop engine parts) and there is no head gasket listed there for the 8V 1100, only a base gasket.

If you look up a 2V GS1000, the 8030 turns up along with an 8408, which is more expensive (my guess is that is the copper version, I verified this on a British parts site). Bore is listed as 73.5mm for both. I have sent Cometic an email asking for guidance.

Salty,
I've cleaned it and felt with my finger around the bolt and head/block joint. It seems like it is starting at the joint. Based upon the totality of the circumstances, I think the mismatch of the head gasket is the problem.

[salty_monk]

You can sometimes get good NOS gasket deals on EBay...

[mrl1000l]

The problem with the 8030 is it is built with a wide cam chain tunnel for use with an o-ring. I called cometic when I ordered mine. I used their 8030 as a base template and had them make the cam tunnel opening smaller to eliminate the need for the o-ring, since the 1074 cylinder block doesn't have the o-ring groove. It was $63 shipped.