GS1000G mods- big bore and fuel injection

[coombehouse]

Ah so you have decided to try another trigger option. Did the Pamco setup not work out then?

[GS1000G Shopper]

The Pamco did not work to fire the coils. I would have had to make big mods to get it to work. The magnet spacing imparts excess dwell for the coils, and the plate does not allow the triggers to sit where they need to be for 17 BTDC firing.

Live & learn. I can possibly sell it to someone with a CB750.

[coombehouse]

When you get your trigger sorted if you wish I will send you a copy of my tune. You will have to change the trigger values & the sensor calibration etc but it should provide you with a very good baseline for fueling etc.
Nick

[GS1000G Shopper]

Thanks, that will be helpful.

The next problem showed up today when I pulled the tank to R&R the head gasket. I noticed fuel had dribbled from around the petcock where it met the tank. This is truly frustrating, as I used all new parts there- the seal, the bolts, and the seals under the bolts. The latter are basically washers, so I think this is where the leak is happening.

I had sent off the PWM controller and the vendor couldn't find anything wrong with it. It will be a while before I do any more testing with it, and due to the aforementioned leak I may just install the GSX-G petcock fitting and run a return line with a pressure regulator.

[coombehouse]

Take it apart & reassemble it with hylomar. That's what pingel recommend & it worked for me.

[GS1000G Shopper]

Thanks. I'll do that. Need to use it on the new head gasket also from what I've read.

[Guest]

I haven't heard of using Hylomar on a head gasket. Are you talking the cylinder head or cam cover? I can see using it on a cam cover but don't know if it would be necessary.

Learn something new every day, reading the applications for Hylomar Blue, it states cylinder head gasketing. Ray

[coombehouse]

With a smear of hylomar on the OE steel gaskets you can use them more than once. Getting it on thin enough is a challenge though. Permatex copper silicone aerosol is good too but almost unobtainable outside the USA unfortunaletly. No good in contact with fuel though so its not for pet cocks. Hylomar is fuel proof.
Nick

[geek]

Interesting project.

[GS1000G Shopper]

I have replaced the head gasket and so far so good. I think the problem was the wrong gasket. The new one (Suzuki GS1100G OEM) seemed to have more material in the area where the leak was taking place. I used Permatex spray copper on it. I used this on the GSX-G as well when I put it back together recently and it has held up OK.

Arttu's trigger setup arrived recently and it looks good. The wheel is much larger than those I was using, and it is thicker as well. I'll add some pics here at the end of this post.

The wheel has no timing marks, so what I did was align the old inner timing plate with mark and make a mark on the engine casing aligned with it. On the wheel, I aligned the old advance mechanism and scribed T and F marks for 1-4 and also a T mark for 2-3. I used the old plate and advance unit to ensure my marks were correct when I reinstalled the cams.

The trigger has two wires, one red/white and one white. I adapted these to the MS by connecting the red/white to VR1 + and the white to VR1 -. I'll also note it is possible to install the trigger plate facing the wrong way. The wire terminals go behind the plate towards the engine. If you install it backwards, it will not generate a signal. The portion that has exposed metal must face the wheel teeth. I found the gap was .035", which is a good tolerance. I get an RPM reading of < 300 in Tuner Studio, so I know it is seeing a trigger signal.

Here are the pics, first the parts (new- left vs old- right) and then the tooth pattern as obtained via Tuner Studio. I'll do a before & after on it for comparison.
Arttu parts:




Timing marks:



Old 24-2 pattern:


Arttu 24-2 pattern:

[GS1000G Shopper]

Huge milestone this afternoon- it started & ran! Best news aside from that were no fluid leaks! My GS no longer thinks it is a Harley.


Now the tuning can begin.

[ArttuH]

Congratulations!

[Guest]

Great news. Looking forward to more progress. Ray

[coombehouse]

Congratulations indeed.
A word of warning on the tuning though. As you know I have been doing a similar conversion & got mine up & running back in the summer. I spent a lot of time getting the warmup tuning side of things right & as a consequence the bike got really hot at idle, so much so the pump got too hot to touch & made a funny noise. I rode the bike a few times & then the top end began making ticking noises. On examination 4 can lobes & all the rockers had picked up & were toast. Still not 100% sure of the cause as there was plenty of oil up there but I think the excessive heat at low rpm may be a major factor.
Nick

[posplayr]

Congratulations indeed.
A word of warning on the tuning though. As you know I have been doing a similar conversion & got mine up & running back in the summer. I spent a lot of time getting the warmup tuning side of things right & as a consequence the bike got really hot at idle, so much so the pump got too hot to touch & made a funny noise. I rode the bike a few times & then the top end began making ticking noises. On examination 4 can lobes & all the rockers had picked up & were toast. Still not 100% sure of the cause as there was plenty of oil up there but I think the excessive heat at low rpm may be a major factor.
Nick

when I was testing Series v.s. Shunt R/R and doing intermitent runs to grab the scope displays I ended up smoking my Webcam exhaust cam and swapped out both . This was with a top end oiler and high performance gears to increase pressure on my 16V.