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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Oct 2006
- 14193
- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
I would use Cunifer rather than copper, even steel. Copper fatigues really quickly with vibration & you're going to have plenty in that location!
1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
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yeah good idea, although i have no idea what Cunifer is!!!Originally posted by salty_monk View PostI would use Cunifer rather than copper, even steel. Copper fatigues really quickly with vibration & you're going to have plenty in that location!
i will mock up the pipes with copper and once i get the I/D right then i can get a steel pipe made up1978 GS1085.
Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Oct 2006
- 14193
- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
Copper Nickel Iron Alloy. Don't rust, easy to bend & don't fatigue like copper. You do need to support it fairly well, not as rigid as steel....
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for CAR VAN CUPRO NICKEL FUEL BRAKE PIPE HOSE LINE 25FT FOOT 3/16 4.76MM 1 ROLL at the best online prices at eBay UK! Free delivery for many products!
Google it. Highly recommended in the classic car scene both in the UK & the US. Sometimes also spelt with a K. Kunifer.1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
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cool, yeah i see it now. Kunifer seems the preferred spelling over here.Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
just as cheap as copper so i will give that a try.
i will need a banjo fitting as the slave has no bleed nipple so i will have to use a single banjo bolt with built in bleed nipple. loads of them to choose from
1978 GS1085.
Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!
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You have to anchor the slave to the casing and you have two holes that are already there, they don't already line up so you'll have to move them, either build up the metal or cleverly machine the slave.Originally posted by Agemax View Postnot sure i am with you on the holes....
sigpic
Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.
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yeah i know that, i said before i have to make a plate to mount it.Originally posted by tatu View PostYou have to anchor the slave to the casing and you have two holes that are already there, they don't already line up so you'll have to move them, either build up the metal or cleverly machine the slave.
if you look at the red arrow in this pic, that is the extrusion that needs to be removed, enough to rotate the slave anticlockwise so that the bottom mount hole lines up with the hole in the crankcase, marked with a blue arrow. that gives me 1 secure anchor. then make a plate to line up with the other 2 mount holes on the slave, and secure the plate to the 2 holes that originally secured the blanking plug securing tab.

next problem is the bolt hole marked with the blue arrow is damaged. it is an original mount hole used for the sprocket cover. i am hoping there is enough material in the crankcase so that i can drill and tap that hole deeper to use for the bottom bolt.
i think all that makes sense!!!
1978 GS1085.
Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!
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Yes it does.
Just to ask, how much do you think you could mill off the face with the number to make it slimmer to fit your plate? Because you could counter sink all the mount holes and gain a bit there to give you more clearance.sigpic
Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.
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with the slave rotated, i will mill down the top slave mount hole and counterbore it so a 6mm allen bolt will fit in flush.Originally posted by tatu View PostYes it does.
Just to ask, how much do you think you could mill off the face with the number to make it slimmer to fit your plate? Because you could counter sink all the mount holes and gain a bit there to give you more clearance.
the plate i plan to fit between the slave and the crankcase. 5mm thick so it is enough to tap 6mm holes. the 2 holes that secure it to the crankcase will be countersunk.
this is roughly what the plate will look like.

do you think that will work?1978 GS1085.
Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!
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Looks very splendid! I like it. How will you seal it to stop the oil leaking on the shaft end?Originally posted by Agemax View Postwith the slave rotated, i will mill down the top slave mount hole and counterbore it so a 6mm allen bolt will fit in flush.
the plate i plan to fit between the slave and the crankcase. 5mm thick so it is enough to tap 6mm holes. the 2 holes that secure it to the crankcase will be countersunk.
this is roughly what the plate will look like.

do you think that will work?sigpic
Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.
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can anyone help me out with the problem i have with the broken mount hole shown in the picture above.(blue arrow post#51).
is the crankcase thick enough to drill and tap deeper or even drill right through and tap? i am not sure if there is anything directly behind it without splitting the cases.
cheers.1978 GS1085.
Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!
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I've got a scrap bottom case and I'll have a look tomorrow.Originally posted by Agemax View Postcan anyone help me out with the problem i have with the broken mount hole shown in the picture above.(blue arrow post#51).
is the crankcase thick enough to drill and tap deeper or even drill right through and tap? i am not sure if there is anything directly behind it without splitting the cases.
cheers.sigpic
Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.
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