Outboard Starter plates

[blowerbike]

kinda like a blower with an a/c clutch ish thingy to activate/deactivate...via mad max interceptor ford...lol

[blowerbike]

here we go..forgot about the tom wade jr. bike ridden by drag bike dot coms own scott valetti running out of S&K racing..
i snagged this from bargers photo's
here is the outboard alternator offered by Anthony.......

WTF...some wrong with attachments...page unavailable...hahahhah

gee wiz beave it finally worked

[posplayr]

good looking bike; I can see why there are so few 1150's left

[GregT]

An interesting question about needing a charging alternator for drag classes...

If you want the mass off the crank without a belt drive, the endurance roadrace answer from the 80's was to mount an alternator outboard of the final drive sprocket and drive it using a socket on the sprocket nut...
Slower RPM, yes but still charged OK. Depends on the test procedure in your rulebook though as you'd have to put the bike on the stand and run it in gear to get a charge showing.

[posplayr]

An interesting question about needing a charging alternator for drag classes...

If you want the mass off the crank without a belt drive, the endurance roadrace answer from the 80's was to mount an alternator outboard of the final drive sprocket and drive it using a socket on the sprocket nut...
Slower RPM, yes but still charged OK. Depends on the test procedure in your rulebook though as you'd have to put the bike on the stand and run it in gear to get a charge showing.

I think all that is understood, from the pictures were just not seeing the pulley reduction required to achieve the reduced moment of inertia. The only alternative is stop the drive. Slipping or a clutch.

[ozman]

Interesting.
Halfway towards what I've been thinking of.
I'd like to remove the flywheel/rotor, fit a plate like that, and keep the starter in original location, so would need a starter idler shaft location drilling.
The idea being to fit an external pulley and poly-V belt to drive an external alternator.

do as suzuki did drive from countershaft sprocket

[Grimly]

Driving off the advance unit was my initial thought, but it's too fragile there. The flat starter blank casing is definitely right - as evidenced by those who've done it - as being strong enough.
It's relatively easy to do if I put up with the extra length of keeping the standard rotor, putting a bearing/seal in the existing case and mount a pulley externally. I'd like to keep the length short as possible though, so would ditch the rotor, use the pulley as flywheel and find / make a blanking plate that carries the starter idler. Of course, the simplest home solution would be carve up the standard case and mount a shortened end case on to it, but I have neither the machining or alloy welding kit here.
Given the design cross-over of similar Kwaks and Suzis of the age, I'm inclined to copy a Kwak conversion I saw a couple of weeks ago, where the owner had done the diy method (on a Z750, iirc) for exactly the same reasons as me.

The countershaft method would be a definite, if it was a chain drive bike.
There is a last drive-access option - akin to a bicycle dynamo... mount an as-needed high rpm model plane motor (in alternator configuration) on a drop-down drive pulley onto the rear tyre. I'm sure that will be fine

[posplayr]

Driving off the advance unit was my initial thought, but it's too fragile there. The flat starter blank casing is definitely right - as evidenced by those who've done it - as being strong enough.
It's relatively easy to do if I put up with the extra length of keeping the standard rotor, putting a bearing/seal in the existing case and mount a pulley externally. I'd like to keep the length short as possible though, so would ditch the rotor, use the pulley as flywheel and find / make a blanking plate that carries the starter idler. Of course, the simplest home solution would be carve up the standard case and mount a shortened end case on to it, but I have neither the machining or alloy welding kit here.
Given the design cross-over of similar Kwaks and Suzis of the age, I'm inclined to copy a Kwak conversion I saw a couple of weeks ago, where the owner had done the diy method (on a Z750, iirc) for exactly the same reasons as me.

The countershaft method would be a definite, if it was a chain drive bike.
There is a last drive-access option - akin to a bicycle dynamo... mount an as-needed high rpm model plane motor (in alternator configuration) on a drop-down drive pulley onto the rear tyre. I'm sure that will be fine

Drop down off of the wheelie bar is a natural as well

[posplayr]

do as suzuki did drive from countershaft sprocket

This is a clean install, but it is even more confusing. Does this not only charge when you are moving? You are total loss when sitting still.

I thought the GSXR's toke drive off of a drive gear off of the input side of the clutch? So when ever the bike is running it is charging.

[blowerbike]

yes oil cooled engines are driven off of a gear behind the basket gear.

[Grimly]

I was wrong; it was a V-Strom

http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,15655.0.html