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1150 motor and a lot of vibration 5,000+ RPM

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    1150 motor and a lot of vibration 5,000+ RPM

    I searched "1150 Vibration" and found a ton of threads. Here are some of the titles:
    "GS 1150 - Prone to vibration?"
    "1150 vibrations, holy crap."
    "Hand falling asleep at throttle"
    "buzzzzzzzzzzz"
    "1984 GS1150ES Vibrates a lot on highway..."
    "Design change GS1150 to improve vibrations?"
    "Dynojet Kits for 1150's and Buzzing Handle Bar"

    And they go on and on...

    I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that it's a common problem. And it seems that most of the solutions end up with carb sync suggestions. The resounding advice is that the 1150 is very sensitive to carb sync, and sync them at 4500 RPM (with a fan on the bike) to help with high RPM vibes.

    So here's my problem: My RS38 carbs can't be synced while the bike is running. When I first got the carbs I sat down to sync them and couldn't find the adjustments. Then I read the manual and found out that they're adjusted under the top caps, which prevent you from adjusting them while the bike is running. Mikuni recommends to mechanically sync all smoothbore carbs and adjusting them for idle.

    I first need to confirm that the sync is the problem. I'm going to assume that with the throttle wide open, that high RPM vibrations should disappear, right? In my head, if the sync is the problem, it would show it's head the most at high RPM and with little throttle openings. It's just hard to find a place to do that without going 3x over the speed limit.

    Is there an easier way to get rid of this high RPM vibration? It's not just uncomfortable, it's worrisome. The mirrors don't just vibrate, but the whole instrument cluster vibrates. I can hear something resonating in the headlight when it's really bad. I feel like it's going to crack parts and shake bolts loose. It's so weird, because from idle to 5,000 RPM it's like butter smooth.

    -Kevin

    #2
    That is weird. I just got back from a short spin, probably never got much over 6k rpm, and the thing that kept occurring to me was, "smooth."
    1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

    2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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      #3
      Yea. That's what I always said with my 1100 motor and stock carbs.

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        #4
        No way around it - the carbs on the 1150 need to be dialed in. I like to be quite precise with my valves as well.

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          #5
          some cranks was closer than others when they left the factory.
          my 1150 was buzzy pretty bad.
          my brothers 1150 was very smooth with little buzz.

          added:
          if your RS carbs are out of sinc the bike will run BAD till the throttle is wide open.
          no if ands or butts about that.
          i do a lot of RS sinc for people..drop off and pick up the next day.
          the complaint is the bike is missing or running uneven till opened up.
          Last edited by blowerbike; 06-24-2014, 05:20 PM.

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            #6
            Can't the cranks be balanced? I'm assuming they're (1150s) already welded.

            I remember decades ago, one of the big mods was getting your crank welded and balanced (900 Kaws).
            1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

            2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

            Comment


              #7
              I sync EVERY set of RSs I put on a bike, WITH THEM RUNNING!!! Someone gave you some bad info!
              Ray.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by rapidray View Post
                I sync EVERY set of RSs I put on a bike, WITH THEM RUNNING!!! Someone gave you some bad info!
                Ray.
                i bench sync and call it good...
                are you actually using vacuum gauges?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Rob S. View Post
                  Can't the cranks be balanced? I'm assuming they're (1150s) already welded.

                  I remember decades ago, one of the big mods was getting your crank welded and balanced (900 Kaws).
                  press pin cranks can be trued but not balanced...think about it.
                  the rods going everywhere when you try to spin it...lol

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by blowerbike View Post
                    i bench sync and call it good...
                    are you actually using vacuum gauges?
                    Me to bench sink. Really the only reason the slides would not need to be even is if your compression was a lot different in each cylinder
                    My stable
                    84 GSX1100EFG-10.62 @ 125 mph 64'' W/B.
                    85 GS1150-9.72@146mph stock W/B.
                    88 GSXR1100-dragbike 9.18@139.92mph/5.68@118mph.
                    98 Bandit 1200-9.38@146mph/6.02@121mph.
                    90 Suzuki GS 1425cc FBG Pro Stock chassis 5.42@124mph
                    06 GSXR750 10.44@135mph
                    00 Honda elite 80 pit bike

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by CivilRock View Post
                      Yea. That's what I always said with my 1100 motor and stock carbs.
                      When I sold my 1100 in favor of the 1150e, I noticed much more vibration with the 1150. The 1150 es I currently ride is buzzy also. I did a vacuum synch (stock carbs) last year and it did help, but not fix it entirely.
                      sigpic
                      When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"

                      Glen
                      -85 1150 es - Plus size supermodel.
                      -Rusty old scooter.
                      Other things I like to photograph.....instagram.com/gs_junkie
                      https://www.instagram.com/glen_brenner/
                      https://www.flickr.com/photos/152267...7713345317771/

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                        #12
                        Geez after 10 pages of posts on "Good Bang for the Buck" performance upgrades to an 82 GS1100, I thought the 1150 replacement engine was the leading contender.

                        Posters even said they ride hopped up 1150s to Bike Week with the wife on the back, I guess they should have also told us the wife was so over stimulated when they got there that they had to sleep with the "stranger". Where's the bang in that?

                        The act of sitting on one's hand for 20 minutes to make it go numb, and proceeding to jerk off with that hand. This will give the feeling of a hand job from someone else.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by rapidray View Post
                          I sync EVERY set of RSs I put on a bike, WITH THEM RUNNING!!! Someone gave you some bad info!
                          Ray.
                          Shoot, I resorted to the Sudco Mikuni Tuning manual. Maybe their advice is too general of advice and doesn't apply to the 1150 motor?

                          So do you sync them with the tops off? Is there some secret?

                          I had my gauges out, fuel IV source set up, tools ready, and assumed I'd just find the adjustments when I got there. Turns out the adjustment is made under the top covers.

                          Do you make an adjustment and then put the cap back on and take a reading?

                          This is my source of info on the RS carbs. Maybe it's old? (see scan below)

                          I understand if tuning these RS carbs to perfection is a trade secret, but I'm super curious now, and I might just do some experimentation. I'm going to ride the bike to work today, and I'll see if I can differentiate WFO 5k+ and 1/8th open 5k+.

                          I also might just hook up my sync gauges and see if they're off at idle and/or off at high rev. Then I can work from there.

                          The main point of this thread was to identify if there was a serious problem, or if this is characteristic of the 1150 engine.

                          Isleoman,
                          Knowing the slight fundamental differences between the 1100 and the 1150, I have to hope that this is just a tuning glitch. Around town and 95% of my seat time so far has been huge grins with the 1150. But I'm very sensitive to the motor while I'm still sorting it out.
                          This weekend I raised the needles one more clip and it is now buttery smooth off idle. I was testing it out, up and down my driveway (200ft) and clicking into 2nd with moderate throttle was lifting the front wheel. I could never get my 1100 to wheelie. The first time (after 9 years) I ever got the front off the ground was at the track on the super sticky launch pad. Now, with the 1150 it's just a matter of rolling on the throttle. Not that wheelies are a distinct measure of power, but it's an indication that there's definitely more.

                          -Kevin

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by stetracer View Post
                            Me to bench sink. Really the only reason the slides would not need to be even is if your compression was a lot different in each cylinder
                            some 1150 engine's has more buzz than other's like i mentioned earlier.
                            bench sync and tune from there.
                            your buzz is here to stay...just the way it is.
                            and yes roll on wheelies is an indication of more power..
                            in your case you have at least 20hp more than your other engine/combo.

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                              #15
                              See my post in the Carburetion section on this.
                              Ray.

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