1982 1100e has no low end power after major tune up in shop

[Anonymous]

Hey all,
I am looking for some help, i took my gs 1100E in for a major tune up ( valves adjusted,carbs syncroed etc etc) and got it back today and it had no power or torque in the low rpm's. It also had a noisy valve so i took it back to the shop and they found a valve adjuster nut wasnt torqued down. They checked the timing and said it was in factory specs but it has just horrible low end power. Any ideas? I am in the seattle area.

Dan

[Anonymous]

As you have spent hundreds of dollars to see, the chances are that taking the bike to an unknown mechanic will have the overall effect of unbolting everything, shaking it really hard, and then tightening all but a couple of the bolts again. No offense intended to the professional mechanics among us. I'm sure it's all the other guys that give you a bad name.

Dealers *@%^$*@%^$*@%^$*@%^$ me off. Never fails.

About the weakness: What you say sounds similar to failure to fire on all cylinders. Try this: start the bike up from cold. Let it idle and do not rev it. Feel the heat radiating from the exhaust headers. Are they all warm or are some of them cool? This would give you something to start with.

If it won't even idle, verbally tear them a new ass hole and ask for a refund.

[Anonymous]

you could feel for heat or pull plug wires while idling to check for a dead cylinder. If you pull the plug cap off just far enough to arc, sometimes the cylinder will start to fire. If that is the case it is most likely a fouled plug and you should pull the plugs and check for carbon deposits.

[lecroy]

Now this does sound like a performance mod!!

[scotty]

Do you have an adjustable backing plate (aftermarket)) to adjust your timing. The 1100e usually has a non asjustable timeing.

Read those plugs for starters.
A ouple of weeks ago Nick had that condition on his Wes Cooley rep and he found a poor connection on one if the plugs that connects one of the coils.
We spread the pin a bit and the bike screams now.

[Anonymous]

update with more info

first off thanks so much to all that have helped me in this ok, comes to find out the mechanic found my cam chain tensioner alittle lose so the adjusted it, by adjusting he told me he moved it one click of link so its tighter....do you guys (and gals) think its something to do with the mentioned above cam chain issue? the bike is 100% stock and the timing set up is all stock as well........ my poor bike is just a slug now is it wrong to shoot a mechanic????

[Anonymous]

Your cam chain tensioner (if like my stock one) is self-adjusting. The only thing that needs be done is the occasional removal and cleaning.

[1100ED]

A note on the cam chain tensioner. i had mine converted to manual((modifying the stock one. Once i decided to adjust it and got smart and adjusted it with the engine off. I made it too tight and even though the engine ran, it missed as lot and ocasionlly ran seemingly correct. I did the adjuastment the proper way and it ran correctly again. The main symptom was that the thing missed a lot or at least fired off time and seemed to be backfireing through the carbs i think but definitely fireing off time.

[Anonymous]

cam chains/tensioner

so what i am gathering here is i have been screwed and not even kissed??? if there is a little slop in the cam chains how is it taken up or adjusted or can it be adjusted? also how can i adjust the timing if there is no timing adjustment like someone suggested above?
Thanks,Dan

[scotty]

You must still have your auto cam chain adjuster I was just telling you what happened to me with a manual adjuster. Read your plugs and let the gang know what you see. That is always a good starting point.

[Don Lobacz]

A good starting point is to do a compression check: a loose adjuster could very easily bend a valve, and someone who doesn't know what they are doing could very easily leave some valves tight. A tight cam chain on your bike could very easily gall (ruin) the cam bearing sufaces.