82 GS850GL Stage 3 Dynojet, APE pods and Delkevic 4-1 exhaust and LED lights

[Guest]

Well, Hurricane Irma slowed my tuning down, but I am finally done. Mods: Dyna 3.0 coils, Dynojet Stage 3 kit, APE pods, Delkevic 4-1 Megaphone. Valves checked before install, carbs sync and balance after each changeout of jets and/or needle positions. Final positions: needle clip position #2, DJ160 main jets, pilot screws at 4 turns. A/F testing on machine is at 14.6...ya I know that is not a "real" number, realistically it's around 14.2-14.4, but the machine takes everything into account and the digital readout is 14.6, I'll take it regardless, benefits of having some shops with state of the art testing equipment. Thermal image of exhaust at idle (1100) has all 4 at 170-180 F, at 3000 rpm at 260-270, all 4 stay pretty even in transition on revs. Plugs have a nice color, although I am still slightly rich, not enough to justify going to a smaller jet, float adjustment, or messing with the pilot circuit any more, maybe 1/4 turn in at the most, plug color is too good to screw with anymore. Dyno machine after mod, only result I was concerned about was actual HP, 8000 RPM 98HP. Previous Dyno on a different platform Dyanmometer was 76HP at 8000. I am pretty sure that the 98 is a little high, its an old machine. I am still happy with the increase, I'm pretty sure a 22HP increase is not realistic but it looked good on the screen. While riding, power band 4k-9k....and it is extremely fast in that range, feels like I am quick shifting when I am actually shifting right on target. I know a local policeman and I am going to try and get an actual 0-60/0-100 time on her. I could try it on the 1/4 mile track close by, but I don't want to pay to check it. Is there an app that will GPS me on 0-60/0-100 times? I did do an actual race against a Screaming Eagle 110 on a straight away, 3rd gear I pulled away from him like he was standing still.

Side note: Unless I try to break the back tire loose, I am not burning it off shifting or taking off. Controlled take off, weight shift and shifting properly is keeping the back tire locked to the ground. I also went "capless" on my plugs....as in no resistor on the B8ES NGK plugs. This was recommended by Dyna when I called the tech line. Go ahead and blast me now, don't care.

As far as LED's. I bought a $20 electronic relay on eBay, installed my LED blinkers and no issue. Flash rate is adjustable on the relay, I just swapped the OEM relay for the new one...and my auto cancel still works, who was it that said this can't be done??? Daymaker LED headlight plugged right in no issues, no pulsing, no flashing. I have no current spikes, no over-current or over-voltage situations. Current set up is an electrosport stator and Shindengen 847AA R/R.

Also put the Saddlemen XS147 cover on the seat, thanks Steve!!! fit perfect. I sit higher now that I don't sink 4 inches down into the 35yo seat.

All in all I am completely satisfied with everything other than a small decrease in MPG (47 MPG before 40-42 MPG after, 35 if I am getting on it) . I really do like the 4-1 exhaust better than the OEM and the power...Jesus the power difference. Really feels like the bike is going to pull you off her.

Pics before the LED add on, put cheap ones on to make sure they worked, ordered good ones. Will update board after on pinterest.

Mods on 82GS850GL

[steve murdoch]

Got the facts, now we need some pics of your hot rod.

[Blue Falcon]

link added to post.

[Blue Falcon]

Add: I do get some popping in the exhaust on decel, have been for the last week since fine tuning. Not backfiring, but popping. Everything is tight, no leaks, this is part of the reason I don't want to mess with anything right now, I have triple checked everything and from what I understand, it's either get the bike a little out of tune or live with the pops on decel. I like being in tune, so I am going to live with the pops. Sounds really bad ass with both baffles removed. It's nice to start the bike and not have to use the choke, warm up seems faster...almost like she is happy now. Running so good, I feel like I am waiting for something to break lol.

[gsrick]

Chris, does it pop with the baffles in? I'm thinking without the baffles, your getting more fresh air sucked in and it igniting the unspent fuel. It may not be enough to see flames. I had a 750 that had a 4-2 without baffles that did the same thing. The neighbors hated that bike.

[Blue Falcon]

Chris, does it pop with the baffles in? I'm thinking without the baffles, your getting more fresh air sucked in and it igniting the unspent fuel. It may not be enough to see flames. I had a 750 that had a 4-2 without baffles that did the same thing. The neighbors hated that bike.

baffles or no baffles, I get the pops, not bad tho. It's more annoying to me than anything, but I'll keep the pops for performance. I'll have to ride by one day and let ya see and hear.

[Steve]

Mods: ... etc., etc.

That is a very nice list you have there.

..., carbs sync and balance after each changeout of jets and/or needle positions.

Did you find any changes? The BS carbs on your bike should have not needed a sync after jet or needle changes, but the VM carbs on the pre-'80 bikes definitely do.

..., pilot screws at 4 turns. ... Plugs have a nice color, although I am still slightly rich, not enough to justify going to a smaller jet or messing with the pilot circuit any more, maybe 1/4 turn in at the most, plug color is too good to screw with anymore.

Sounds a bit extreme on the pilots. Even with all your mods, it's still the throttle opening that determines air flow at idle, so the pilot jetting and screw settings should not change much from stock. I would bet that you could probably turn them in a full turn and still be good. You might have to use the "choke" on a cold start, but that's why it's there.

Dyno machine after mod, only result I was concerned about was actual HP, 8000 RPM 98HP. Previous Dyno on a different platform Dyanmometer was 76HP at 8000. I am pretty sure that the 98 is a little high, its an old machine. I am still happy with the increase, I'm pretty sure a 22HP increase is not realistic but it looked good on the screen.

If I remember correctly, advertised output was 72HP, and that would have been at the crank. Not sure what actually made it to the wheel, but it would have been considerably less, maybe in the 55-60 range. I think the 76HP reading was a bit optimistic, as is the 98. If that were CRANK horsepower, I would say the dyno needs some fine-tuning. Since it is supposedly REAR WHEEL horsepower I'll just say "it's off". Still a very nice increase in power.

I know a local policeman and I am going to try and get an actual 0-60/0-100 time on her. I could try it on the 1/4 mile track close by, but I don't want to pay to check it. Is there an app that will GPS me on 0-60/0-100 times?

I use QMT. It will give you 0-60, 0-100 and quarter-mile times.

I also went "capless" on my plugs....as in no resistor on the B8ES NGK plugs. This was recommended by Dyno when I called the tech line. Go ahead and blast me now, don't care.

I think the only ones who might "blast" you would be the ones in the car next to you at the stoplight that are trying to listen to their AM radio. The resistors are mainly for RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) suppression.

I bought a $20 electronic relay on eBay, installed my LED blinkers and no issue. Flash rate is adjustable on the relay, I just swapped the OEM relay for the new one...and my auto cancel still works, who was it that said this can't be done???

Well, let's just say it hasn't been done until NOW. What relay did you get? That might be a better way to answer the question that everyone has asked so far.

I find it interesting, though, because the third pin on the Suzuki flasher goes to the control unit, not the usual ground that most electronic flashers have. I wonder what it has inside that lets it work with the GS.

Daymaker LED headlight plugged right in no issues, no pulsing, no flashing. I have no current spikes, no over-current or over-voltage situations. Current set up is an electrosport stator and Shindengen 847AA R/R.

I see many posts about LED headlights, but seem to remember that you used the Daymaker because you had one that was available? Maybe borderline 'free'?
For those reading this and get sticker shock at the price of a Daymaker, the Truck-Lite is also a great light.

Also put the Saddlemen XS147 cover on the seat, thanks Steve!!! fit perfect. I sit higher now that I don't sink 4 inches down into the 35yo seat.

Your are welcome. We must have discussed this quite some time ago, as I don't remember the discussion , but it is a very comfortable seat.
There will likely be a few that will say that they don't like having a seat that locks you into one position, but that position is so comfortable, you don't really get tired of it.

.

[Blue Falcon]

That is a very nice list you have there.

Thanks!!

Did you find any changes? The BS carbs on your bike should have not needed a sync after jet or needle changes, but the VM carbs on the pre-'80 bikes definitely do.

Actually, yes, very slight changes, but enough for a 1/16 turn of the adjustment screw, I didn't have to make adjustments every time, but I wanted to be as close to "right" as I could be.

Sounds a bit extreme on the pilots. Even with all your mods, it's still the throttle opening that determines air flow at idle, so the pilot jetting and screw settings should not change much from stock. I would bet that you could probably turn them in a full turn and still be good. You might have to use the "choke" on a cold start, but that's why it's there.

Dynojet recommends 4 1/2 turns as a starting point, I actually don't use my choke anymore, don't need it. Starts right up 900rpm for about 15 seconds, blip the throttle and idles at 1000-1100.

If I remember correctly, advertised output was 72HP, and that would have been at the crank. Not sure what actually made it to the wheel, but it would have been considerably less, maybe in the 55-60 range. I think the 76HP reading was a bit optimistic, as is the 98. If that were CRANK horsepower, I would say the dyno needs some fine-tuning. Since it is supposedly REAR WHEEL horsepower I'll just say "it's off". Still a very nice increase in power.

76 was done at the grand opening of the Ace Cafe Orlando on a portable dyno set up for free shortly after I got the bike and did a valve job on it, fully stock. The second (98) was done on the UCF mech lab's dynomometer, its an old one and they hooked everything up. I did nothing but sit behind the glass, completely unbiased not trying to sell me anything hook up. I will also say "its off" a bit, but a significant increase is noticeable...i'd say probably a 20% increase in HP generously in reality.

I use QMT. It will give you 0-60, 0-100 and quarter-mile times.

I'll have to download it.


I think the only ones who might "blast" you would be the ones in the car next to you at the stoplight that are trying to listen to their AM radio. The resistors are mainly for RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) suppression.

pffffffft

Well, let's just say it hasn't been done until NOW. What relay did you get? That might be a better way to answer the question that everyone has asked so far.

I find it interesting, though, because the third pin on the Suzuki flasher goes to the control unit, not the usual ground that most electronic flashers have. I wonder what it has inside that lets it work with the GS.

I had previously separated the circuits with my rewire, only used a 2 prong relay, power to left switch to relay to control unit, control unit still has dedicated power. Didn't have any issues other than first relay didn't work, second relay was the right kind. Get the $20 electronic 2 prong with adjustable flash rate. So ya, I kinda rewired it now that I think about it. There is a control module for about $70 on ebay that completely eliminates the auto cancel and relay. You set the flash rate and auto cancel time(3 settings), also eliminates the need for resistors. I was actually thinking about going this route as you can add hazard flasher function and driving lights as well. It looks like a knock off....exactly like.... the $150 one.



I see many posts about LED headlights, but seem to remember that you used the Daymaker because you had one that was available? Maybe borderline 'free'?
For those reading this and get sticker shock at the price of a Daymaker, the Truck-Lite is also a great light.

Yes, this light was on a wrecked Harley at a salvage yard near by, had the driving lights with bar too, but he wouldn't give me that for free. I am pretty sure this isn't a true HD daymaker, but it works great.


Your are welcome. We must have discussed this quite some time ago, as I don't remember the discussion , but it is a very comfortable seat.
There will likely be a few that will say that they don't like having a seat that locks you into one position, but that position is so comfortable, you don't really get tired of it.

still getting use to sitting higher now.
.

everything in bold

[Steve]

I had previously separated the circuits with my rewire, only used a 2 prong relay, power to left switch to relay to control unit, control unit still has dedicated power. Didn't have any issues other than first relay didn't work, second relay was the right kind. Get the $20 electronic 2 prong with adjustable flash rate. So ya, I kinda rewired it now that I think about it.

If you are using a 2-prong flasher, there is simply no way that your auto-cancel will still work. The new flasher might have its own built-in cancel system, but the stock cancel system certainly won't be active.

I am pretty sure this isn't a true HD daymaker, but it works great.

You have some close-up pictures of it? I have seen a few knock-offs, but the true Daymaker is a rather impressive light.
Not enough to justify the difference from a Truck-Lite, but still very good.

.

[Blue Falcon]

new issue, spent a few hours troubleshooting this one. apprarently having capless plugs on the coils is not healthy for LED lights or electronic controllers/relays. Fried all 4 lights and the relay, headlight took no damage and is still working. Note to self ..... backfeed from capless plugs is bad for electronic components on your vintage bike. I checked everything, no blown fuses, no burned wires, power everywhere it currently should be. Glad I used the cheap LED lights for the test out, but a great learning experience. I had to do about an hour of research to find an answer, apparently this is not all that uncommon, except it usually fries ignition modules, EFI modules etc. only found a few cases of it blowing out LED lights. Now I know....and Knowing is Half the Batttle.... GS Joe!! Caps go back on when I get home, new LED lights and relay should be here on Friday.... 3 hours of cussing and an hour of "you gotta be f'n kidding me" while I was looking up solutions. Also, according to what I was reading would be the cause of my cut outs at the high RPM's, huge post on filters for modified touring bikes with performance packages. I'll find out tomorrow. Give me a week to get this crap straightened out on the turn signals and I will post an update.

[Steve]

Great find.

Just to back up a bit, what was your incentive to not run resistor caps?

.

[Blue Falcon]

Great find.

Just to back up a bit, what was your incentive to not run resistor caps?

.

talked to Dyna on the phone asked which would give better performance, didn't even think about backfeed, they probably didn't either given the year of bike.

[Steve]

Thanks. I would not have thought about the "backfeed", either, certainly not enough to damage other parts.

I just remember having an AM/FM radio on my '79 KZ1300, and the difficulty of trying to tune in any AM stations. I stuck with FM or cassettes.

.

[Blue Falcon]

Thanks. I would not have thought about the "backfeed", either, certainly not enough to damage other parts.

I just remember having an AM/FM radio on my '79 KZ1300, and the difficulty of trying to tune in any AM stations. I stuck with FM or cassettes.

.

put the NGK resistor caps back on, my high rpm stutter is now gone.....my cheap LED's are working. I'll update if anything blows. Below is one of the many links I used to do some research into this anomaly.

Tech info on coil issues link

this was really helpful. I still may need to add wire shielding to the wire runs by the coils, maybe some cap filters to the individual LED lights as well. At least it's not really an expensive fix.