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New boots! Still won't idle.

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    #61
    Originally posted by UncleMike View Post
    I've got a compression gauge coming tonight. We'll see how those valves/rings are doing.

    Meanwhile, I guess I'll take the carbs off and clean 'em again.
    Good plan Mike. What Keith said about the carbs is solid info. Also though, I still question the valves at this point. Seals, adjustment? It has to be looked at, at this point.

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      #62
      If your plugs were wet after stalling I'd rule out fuel starvation.
      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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        #63
        At this point, I've gotta just keep ruling out possibilities until I arrive at the end. Gotta be methodical, gotta be patient, gotta be patient, gotta be patient.

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          #64
          Pulled the carbs again. The intake boots were wet with fuel.

          Smoke came out of them when I pulled the carbs.

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            #65
            Originally posted by KEITH KRAUSE View Post
            There are some very tiny bypass ports, engine side of the throttle plates, near the top of the carb throat.
            As part of the pilot circuit, these must be clean or the bike will starve while idling.
            You say the bike will run if you throttle it some. This of course by-passes the choke and to an extent, depending on throttle position, the pilot circuit. Running better when at least partially by-passing the pilot circuit suggests the pilot circuit isn't clean or there's a vacuum problem.
            Keith,

            Where should I spray carb cleaner to make sure those holes are clean? I'm assuming I want the spray to come OUT of those holes, no?

            Thanks,
            Mike

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              #66
              I was impatient and just started cleaning away. I unscrewed the mixture screws and stuck a piece of wire down there and saw it come out the other side, just like in the carb cleanup series. I sprayed some carb cleaner in there too, just for good measure. I also stuck the wire in the hole where the airscrew goes in and in the little choke passage in the float bowl and the tube that goes in it too.

              Anything else I'm not thinking of before I slap these puppies back on AGAIN!?

              Seriously guys, thanks for your help here. I appreciate it more than you'll ever know.

              ~Mike

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                #67
                Mike, I wasn't following completely. Did you dip these carbs? If not it simply must be done. Valves get my vote for being next.

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                  #68
                  I think somebody was talking earlier about the tiny cluster of passages right next to the place where your wire comes out when you push it down the mixture screw hole, but behind the flappers.

                  I think you should see mist shoot out of them if you shoot air/carb cleaner through one of the air jets on the air box side of the carb plenums (while you're holding the flapper open so you can see). At least I know I've seen mist shoot out of them while blowing out *something*. Maybe somebody else can be more specific.

                  You can probably ream out those holes with a bent wire (since the angle is too much for the standard straight matchstick wire "tool").

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                    #69
                    Originally posted by Hoomgar View Post
                    Mike, I wasn't following completely. Did you dip these carbs? If not it simply must be done. Valves get my vote for being next.
                    This spring I dipped the bodies all for at least 24 hours. The little bits got around 18 hours. I get my hands on a compression gauge in about an hour.

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                      #70
                      Originally posted by t3rmin View Post
                      I think somebody was talking earlier about the tiny cluster of passages right next to the place where your wire comes out when you push it down the mixture screw hole, but behind the flappers.

                      I think you should see mist shoot out of them if you shoot air/carb cleaner through one of the air jets on the air box side of the carb plenums (while you're holding the flapper open so you can see). At least I know I've seen mist shoot out of them while blowing out *something*. Maybe somebody else can be more specific.

                      You can probably ream out those holes with a bent wire (since the angle is too much for the standard straight matchstick wire "tool").
                      Are those part of the idle circuit as well?

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                        #71
                        Originally posted by UncleMike View Post
                        This spring I dipped the bodies all for at least 24 hours. The little bits got around 18 hours. I get my hands on a compression gauge in about an hour.

                        Rock on. I think your about to get some solid answers. Here is to hoping.

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                          #72
                          Originally posted by Hoomgar View Post
                          Rock on. I think your about to get some solid answers. Here is to hoping.
                          Here's to hoping it's not the rings and the valves aren't burned.

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                            #73
                            Originally posted by UncleMike View Post
                            Are those part of the idle circuit as well?
                            I can't see such tiny passages being good for much else, and I think somebody else indicated as much. But I'm really not that familiar with these carbs yet, so I can't say for sure.

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                              #74
                              While you still have carbs off bike, spray carb cleaner through air jets which are located on the edge of carb bell. These are on the air filter side of the carb towards the rear. It would not hurt to remove these and spray into carb body through pasageway. These jets can usually be removed with a precise fitting screwdriver and checked to make sure they are open. May not be cure, but while you have them out... Good luck, you will get to the problem soon.

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                                #75
                                I was assuming all along that the carbs had been cleaned but I know from experience that many people forget or miss the pilot circuit by-pass holes.
                                When your bike idles at the factory recommended idle, it's running on the pilot circuit. These bypass ports (they by-pass the throttle plates) are the fine tuning for the pilot circuit. The mixture screws regulate them. I don't know why you mention in a previous post that you cleaned mixture screws AND air screws/passages? Your CV carbs only have mixture screws.
                                I don't know if the "smoke" issue is condensation or oil burning. Oil will linger longer. Condensation is just water/mist.
                                Also, 17 volts is too high. I'm not sure if that means the regulator and/or stator is failing, but check the stator papers. You mentioned the bike starts to die as the voltmeter shows the volts going too high (beyond 15 volts at higher rpm's).
                                Sorry for such quick reply, but I'm off to work and just trying to keep on this.
                                And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                                Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

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