Project: 1985 GS550ES

nerobro knows PERSONALLY about the 122 mph...cuz he pulled a ticket like that.

[Nerobro]

Hmm... Other than the fact that you can't remove the carbs without taking the chokes out You don't need to worry about cleaning the chokes. They're huge orafices. :-) And they keep themselves pretty well clean.

As for exhausts, as far as I'm aware all we have is Motad and what we can find on the used market. I'd stick with stock. Skreemer's bike has a V&H pipe on it, and it's got a nice sound.. but it doesn't make neighbors happy.

Is 122mph fast enough for you? that's how fast your bike will go with a K&N and some slightly richer jetting. Along with being the quietest bike on the road. Possably more, as my jetting is all sorted out for the K&N yet.

If you want to modify one... I think we could come up with an amicable arrangement for a much less pretty GS550ES :-) They have a LOT of paths to go down when it comes to upgrades. Just.. the one you've got is cherry.

Nerobro, judging from your signature it seems that you may be obsessed with 550's similar to mine, so I thought I might pick your brain a bit. Are you familiar with any currently available aftermarket upgrades (exhaust for one example) for the mid-80's 550ES?

The War Room

The War Room

What hasn't been mentioned is cleanign the pilot screws. If you do not do so, the bike will never run properly. I went all last year trying all sorts of cleaners instead of actually popping the EPA caps and pulling, then cleaning the pilot screws.

this spring I decided I would do it proper-like. The machine was a cantakerous beast before. Now, it's a scooter. The thing starts up every time, and it idles SOLIDLY.

That's really all that's wrong. Except... now you have a new air filter. If you don't use the stock air filter you're going to be lean in the mid and top range.

;-) I'm still trying to sort out my K&N. good luck with your unifilter.

I'll be cleaning the pilot screws along with everything else. The trouble at the moment is that I'm missing the proper wrench for the fastener holding the choke plungers to the carbs. #-o With any luck I'll have that, and much more, by Friday.

Re the air filter, it's supposedly the updated OEM replacement, so I'm assuming? that it would provide the same air flow as the OEM original. Guess we'll see.

[Nerobro]

What hasn't been mentioned is cleanign the pilot screws. If you do not do so, the bike will never run properly. I went all last year trying all sorts of cleaners instead of actually popping the EPA caps and pulling, then cleaning the pilot screws.

this spring I decided I would do it proper-like. The machine was a cantakerous beast before. Now, it's a scooter. The thing starts up every time, and it idles SOLIDLY.

That's really all that's wrong. Except... now you have a new air filter. If you don't use the stock air filter you're going to be lean in the mid and top range.

;-) I'm still trying to sort out my K&N. good luck with your unifilter.

Pulling the Carbs

Apparently I need more than 5 metric sockets and 3 metric comination wrenches to do this job properly. :? I must have really "made due" when I worked on my CB350 back in the day because I had the same tools then.

This time, as I've mentioned, I'm trying to do things right so as to preserve the orignal parts and my orignal knuckles. So I went to Sears earlier tonight after carefully researching tool sets and ordered a 245 piece Craftsment set. See it here and let me know what ya think: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00934245000

I picked this one because a) It's got pretty much every thing I need socket or combination wrench wise, b) It's priced at the top end of my budget ($300), c) has the Easy To Read laser etched markings, d) includes storage, even though it's cheesy storage.

I've also picked up a small air compressor, a new set of screw drivers and Craftsman THIN 1/4 and 3/8 drives that I can work in the tight spots without forcing the issue or damaging finishes.

It's due in Friday and the girlfriend is due to be out of town all weekend, so I should have the tools and the time to get into it this weekend! \\/

Since I last posted:

Needed a proper Spark Plug socket (18 mm). After several trips (should've taken the plug or looked it up online the first time) I finally got the right socket from sears. Thanks to Steve, it turned out I had the torque wrench that I needed and I got all the plugs snugged in just right (150 inch-pounds).

Tried to fire it up without re-installing the gas tank. No dice. I'm guessing there wasn't enough fuel left in the carbs for start up. I've decided that I'm not putting that tank back on until I remove the carbs and get 'em back on in proper condition. Besides, we all know that's what the main issue is! :-D

Thanks for the input LeeGS550E and lord1234. I will be pulling the carbs for sure and I'll be completely disassembling, cleaning and replacing every non metal bit that I can find a replacement for. I'm thinkin' that once I take one apart and drop it in the carb dip that I'll take the non-metal bits over to my local dealer and see if they can come with any/all of the parts. If not, I'll get the parts from BikeBandit, CheapCycleParts or CycleOrings or some comination thereof.

I rebuilt the carbs on my '83 ED a few months ago. I replaced the float bowl gaskets and the o-ring on the needle valve assembly. I didn't find any others that needed replacement. You probably want to check to make sure your baffles are ok. I would go ahead and buy the parts from that site. I keep going to the local guys just to keep my money local, but every time I come out disappointed with the price and how long it takes to get the parts. Good work on finding that link too, as those blow ups are much clearer than bikebandit's.

ok
for carb rebuild, you probably don't have to touch the air side of the carbs...however you will need to open/drain/clean the float bowls. You probably need to replace your float bowl gasket. These can be found for around 6-7 dollars a piece at bikebandit.com (sorry i don't know your other site). You shouldn't need any other parts...
however make sure you clean all 3 jets(main jet(yellow brass head), idle jet(tall brass thing poking up out of the carb) and pilot jet(right infront of the main jet). These are all based off of my carbs, so might be different for you, but shouldn't be.

Hope that helps...

Depending on how bad it is you might also need to replace the floats...thats when the real pain in the ass starts.

With new plugs in at .026 gap and PERFECTLY torqued at 150 inch-pounds (thanks again to Steve), the orignal symptoms persist. As suspected, the likely cluprit is the carb system which means that I'll be pulling them this weekend. In anticipation of a need for all things not metal associated with the carbs I went to bike BikeBandit.com and noticed that most of my carb parts are out there. I also found this place called CheapCycleParts.com and found a system similar to BikeBandit's with better (less pixelized) illustrations and even more information on the parts and great availability.

I know that many folks have said that buying generic O-ring sets and gasket sets are a good way to go when rebuilding the carbs, but is there any reason that I shouldn't take advantage of the OEM stuff in this link:

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/pages/parts/1/10641/261147/home.aspx

Oh, and I did a search for this vendor here on the forum and got no hits, so I'm wondering if maybe I've found a supplier that we didn't know about yet.

Please advise. Thanks in advance!

Any thoughts...anyone?

Spark Plugs are gapped, in and torqued to spec!

With new plugs in at .026 gap and PERFECTLY torqued at 150 inch-pounds (thanks again to Steve), the orignal symptoms persist. As suspected, the likely cluprit is the carb system which means that I'll be pulling them this weekend. In anticipation of a need for all things not metal associated with the carbs I went to bike BikeBandit.com and noticed that most of my carb parts are out there. I also found this place called CheapCycleParts.com and found a system similar to BikeBandit's with better (less pixelized) illustrations and even more information on the parts and great availability.

I know that many folks have said that buying generic O-ring sets and gasket sets are a good way to go when rebuilding the carbs, but is there any reason that I shouldn't take advantage of the OEM stuff in this link:

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/pages/parts/1/10641/261147/home.aspx

Oh, and I did a search for this vendor here on the forum and got no hits, so I'm wondering if maybe I've found a supplier that we didn't know about yet.

Please advise. Thanks in advance!

all the above complaints are moot...you at least have all the side covers, they seem in good shape, the gas tank isn't dented, everyone's pipes have some corrosion...so yea...good looking bike...don't put it down so much or you'll hurt its feelings.

Don't get me wrong, I like the look of the bike and for a bike of this style and "maturity" it's in pretty good shape. It's just that after poking around this forum I've seen quite a few older bikes that are in better shape and I'd like to get my bike to that level.

FYI: The left side cover, in addition to the gas stains, is actually cracked in half about 90% right up the middle. The PO used duct tape on the inside of the cover to hold it together. I just found out earlier this week that Bike Bandit has covers for the GS550ES, so I'll probably wind up getting a replacement once the bike is road worthy.

your symptoms of only being able to run on choke makes me think you have an air leak somewhere in your system. With an air leak you would create a lean condition as there wouldn't be enough vacuum to pull up the proper amount of gas, therefore by using the choke you pour excess gasoline to compensate. To check try using some contact cleaner/lube in a can/ect. and spray them on the seals of the carbs including the shaft that actuates the butterflies. if the revs fluctuate you've found a leak. The o-rings behind the carb boots sealing the boots to the head are definitely something to renew as 20+ yrs. will take its toll on rubber components.

If you haven't already, be sure to replace both your vacuum and fuel lines with some new ones. just through experience I've found clear lines much nicer to have as you can see whats going on in there. Adding an inline fuel filter wouldn't be a bad idea either.(all depends on the condition of the tank) Just make sure you install one that is designed to work with a gravity fed system.

have fun.